79B100
Member
Happy holidays. I just joined the site, but have referenced it while rebuilding and customizing my ‘79 B100 during the past two years. Sorry if this is not the typical B body.
Prior to this project, I had no automotive experience, so please bear with me. I’ve managed to do a nut-and-bolt rebuild on this non-running van and have been able to figure everything out so far, but the ignition switch-to-starter relay wiring is giving me the business.
Note: I have totally rebuilt the 318 and put a Holley Sniper on it. The project has a lot of aftermarket, performance parts, including an all-in-one HEI distributor. It is a hot rod. Other than its frame and body, the van was in horrible shape, with scary looking mods to the wiring harness, typical of custom van work ca ‘79. So, I have replaced the wiring with a “universal” harness from Painless, which seems to be working, except for the ignition switch-to-starter relay connection.
The starter solenoid is not activated when I turn the key in the ignition. Power from the battery to the relay is good. Power from the relay to the starter is good. Power from the fuse panel to the ignition switch is good. Accessory “run” power activates gauges, stereo, etc, but only in the “crank” key position. I have tried multiple ways to connect the Painless ignition wires to the Mopar ignition 7-pin connector, but can achieve no more success than this.
Because I am using an all-in-one HEI distributor, I have eliminated the oem ballast resistor and ignition coil. I have also removed the van’s egr system. So, I have capped the BAL and EGR terminals on the oem starter relay.
After extensive research and confusion, I drew the attached diagram, which is how I have wired the circuit in question. I have referenced the original wiring diagram, but it is not totally helpful because of the vehicle’s mods.
One or more of these must be the problem:
1. I have wired things incorrectly.
2. The Mopar style starter relay requires using the BAL and EGR terminals and possibly will not work with my no-ballast, no egr setup.
3. The starter relay, though a brand new Standard Motors product, is defective.
4. The ignition switch, though also a brand new Standard Motors product, is defective.
Also, could someone please clarify “Battery 1” vs “Battery 2” and “Accessory 1” vs “Accessory 2” wires on the ignition switch? These names do not correspond with Painless ignition wire labels. With my setup, do I need B1/B2 and Acc1/Acc2? Should I be using a different type of starter relay and/or ignition switch?
Thanks for any help.
Prior to this project, I had no automotive experience, so please bear with me. I’ve managed to do a nut-and-bolt rebuild on this non-running van and have been able to figure everything out so far, but the ignition switch-to-starter relay wiring is giving me the business.
Note: I have totally rebuilt the 318 and put a Holley Sniper on it. The project has a lot of aftermarket, performance parts, including an all-in-one HEI distributor. It is a hot rod. Other than its frame and body, the van was in horrible shape, with scary looking mods to the wiring harness, typical of custom van work ca ‘79. So, I have replaced the wiring with a “universal” harness from Painless, which seems to be working, except for the ignition switch-to-starter relay connection.
The starter solenoid is not activated when I turn the key in the ignition. Power from the battery to the relay is good. Power from the relay to the starter is good. Power from the fuse panel to the ignition switch is good. Accessory “run” power activates gauges, stereo, etc, but only in the “crank” key position. I have tried multiple ways to connect the Painless ignition wires to the Mopar ignition 7-pin connector, but can achieve no more success than this.
Because I am using an all-in-one HEI distributor, I have eliminated the oem ballast resistor and ignition coil. I have also removed the van’s egr system. So, I have capped the BAL and EGR terminals on the oem starter relay.
After extensive research and confusion, I drew the attached diagram, which is how I have wired the circuit in question. I have referenced the original wiring diagram, but it is not totally helpful because of the vehicle’s mods.
One or more of these must be the problem:
1. I have wired things incorrectly.
2. The Mopar style starter relay requires using the BAL and EGR terminals and possibly will not work with my no-ballast, no egr setup.
3. The starter relay, though a brand new Standard Motors product, is defective.
4. The ignition switch, though also a brand new Standard Motors product, is defective.
Also, could someone please clarify “Battery 1” vs “Battery 2” and “Accessory 1” vs “Accessory 2” wires on the ignition switch? These names do not correspond with Painless ignition wire labels. With my setup, do I need B1/B2 and Acc1/Acc2? Should I be using a different type of starter relay and/or ignition switch?
Thanks for any help.