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montana 62

his car has early style motor mounts, cushion air?
One 1/2" stud sticking up out of K member. Same mount as my '66 Imperial.
Hacksaw called me a couple hours ago, I told him what I thought was wrong.
We will see.

jim
 
ok.. got it figured out. thay are the wrong mounts. i was told that it did not matter with the old style mounts. big car B body were the same. i can tell ya first hand thay are not. had to modify the drivers side to clear the power box. and i only got the top 2 bolts to the tabs on the block. the pad on the pass side had a stud and a hole bout 3 in in front of it and that is the spot to bolt it down. these will work while i finish putting the rest of the running gear in it. but at some point i will have to find/make the right mounts or put the later K frame in it.
sure makes me feel better finaly having the mill in her. now to install the pile of parts i have gathered up for it. and ya. im going to save the MW manifolds for something else later ... much later.
been a long night but got to use some skills the old guys i hung out with in my younger days showed me. there is a way to make something do what ya want.... 99% of the time anyway.
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his car has early style motor mounts, cushion air?
One 1/2" stud sticking up out of K member. Same mount as my '66 Imperial.
Hacksaw called me a couple hours ago, I told him what I thought was wrong.
We will see.

jim
hay i swapped sides and had to modify the drivers side to clear the power box. there not the correct mounts but thay will work for now. new pics posted.... thanks for the info btw.
 
ok.. got it figured out. thay are the wrong mounts. i was told that it did not matter with the old style mounts. big car B body were the same. i can tell ya first hand thay are not. had to modify the drivers side to clear the power box. and i only got the top 2 bolts to the tabs on the block. the pad on the pass side had a stud and a hole bout 3 in in front of it and that is the spot to bolt it down. these will work while i finish putting the rest of the running gear in it. but at some point i will have to find/make the right mounts or put the later K frame in it.
sure makes me feel better finaly having the mill in her. now to install the pile of parts i have gathered up for it. and ya. im going to save the MW manifolds for something else later ... much later.
been a long night but got to use some skills the old guys i hung out with in my younger days showed me. there is a way to make something do what ya want.... 99% of the time anyway.
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View attachment 1881019
View attachment 1881018
Your engine is too far back/close to the firewall. Has anyone changed the K-frame? A '66 or newer K-frame will move the engine back like that. You will have problems with kickdown linkage and driveshaft length.
 
Your engine is too far back/close to the firewall. Has anyone changed the K-frame? A '66 or newer K-frame will move the engine back like that. You will have problems with kickdown linkage and driveshaft length.
There ain't no trans in it yet so it's laying back. But in sure I'll have to make some adjustments after and will use that as a guide.
 
ok.. got it figured out. thay are the wrong mounts. i was told that it did not matter with the old style mounts. big car B body were the same. i can tell ya first hand thay are not. had to modify the drivers side to clear the power box. and i only got the top 2 bolts to the tabs on the block. the pad on the pass side had a stud and a hole bout 3 in in front of it and that is the spot to bolt it down. these will work while i finish putting the rest of the running gear in it. but at some point i will have to find/make the right mounts or put the later K frame in it.
sure makes me feel better finaly having the mill in her. now to install the pile of parts i have gathered up for it. and ya. im going to save the MW manifolds for something else later ... much later.
been a long night but got to use some skills the old guys i hung out with in my younger days showed me. there is a way to make something do what ya want.... 99% of the time anyway.
View attachment 1881020
View attachment 1881019
View attachment 1881018

You are the only other person i have seen using Power float mounts... i had to cut a big notch out of my drivers mount to clear the borgeson box, I also drilled a hole through the mount and ran a 3/8 bolt pretty much making it solid.. which sucks but the rubber was separating and i'm not paying what a new mount costs..
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BTW... i actually like the mount design... really easy to put the motor in :)
 
hay i swapped sides and had to modify the drivers side to clear the power box. there not the correct mounts but thay will work for now. new pics posted.... thanks for the info btw.
Very happy this has worked out for you. :thumbsup:
 
You are the only other person i have seen using Power float mounts... i had to cut a big notch out of my drivers mount to clear the borgeson box, I also drilled a hole through the mount and ran a 3/8 bolt pretty much making it solid.. which sucks but the rubber was separating and i'm not paying what a new mount costs..
View attachment 1881103
mine is in a whole differnt spot the mount was dead nuts next to the box. i tryed to do it that way first but was way to far off. by like 4 inches. im guessing the small block makes the deal easy for ya.
 
mine is in a whole differnt spot the mount was dead nuts next to the box. i tryed to do it that way first but was way to far off. by like 4 inches. im guessing the small block makes the deal easy for ya.

Honestly.. small block has made everything easy :) Can even pull the headers in and out the top without moving anything.. it's my first small block ever and it has upsides :)
 
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