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Mopar truck dana 60 to 69 b body

4 spd gtx

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Lancaster PA
Anyone use a mopar dana 60 rear in a 69 plymouth b body? What can be done to fit it under my GTX?
 
Car housing ends and new spring perches. Make sure it can have the ends put on and be the right width. No pinion snubber provision. Most likely will need all new guts, axles, bearings, and yoke.
 
I have a narrowed 1 ton Dodge truck axle under my Challenger. Cut the full floating ends and old spring perches off. Added car ends and new perches. Ordered Strange 40 splined gun drilled l.w. axles, l.w. spool and 4:10 gears with a aluminum stud girdle cover.

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With Strange brakes and pro stock style calipers (which cost more) to clear the inner bead lock ring. Adding whellie bar brackets and anti roll bar brackets. Everything was just under $1700.00. My buddy and I did all the fabricating. Obviously, with just mild street/strip car parts, it can even be done for less money.
 
Can a truck Dana 60 be modified to stock E body or B body length? I'm thinking no just narrowed applications?
 
Can a truck Dana 60 be modified to stock E body or B body length? I'm thinking no just narrowed applications?
Yes, I believe so, because I took like 6" off of the ends of mine. A dually axle I would say no as they are more narrow.
 
Got one narrowed to 52 inches under my 63 Fury. Like said, new ends and perches. No snubber. Using Caltracs. ruffcut
 
I think by the time you do all the needed things, including parts, labor & aggravation, you would be better off buying a brand-new unit from Strange Engineering, with everything already done & ready to bolt in. IMHO
 
I think by the time you do all the needed things, including parts, labor & aggravation, you would be better off buying a brand-new unit from Strange Engineering, with everything already done & ready to bolt in. IMHO
Yes, I would agree for a stock bolt in replacement. However, nothing of mine was stock, so I needed to make it fit my car.
 
I did a dually axle on my sons 62 savoy. When cutting the ends leave them as long as possible. There's not much to work with on the one side. We used 8 3/4 ends, free. New axles, axle bearings, seals, spool, perches, and the original 3.54 gear set. Pretty cheap if you can do your own labor.
Doug
 
I think by the time you do all the needed things, including parts, labor & aggravation, you would be better off buying a brand-new unit from Strange Engineering, with everything already done & ready to bolt in. IMHO
Dr. Diff sells a complete bolt is Dana 60 for about 2,600.00 and a complete rear disc brake kit with parking cables for about 700.00.
 
I got lucky on my 64. I found a relatively rare D60 in a 60's F100 Ford pickup with a Powr Lock. Changed sidegears in the powr lock, new clutches, kept the gears, found some used A-body width axles, used 8 3/4 ends and had at er.
I like hot rodding the old DIY way but it's getting harder to find the parts to do so.

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I got lucky on my 64. I found a relatively rare D60 in a 60's F100 Ford pickup with a Powr Lock. Changed sidegears in the powr lock, new clutches, kept the gears, found some used A-body width axles, used 8 3/4 ends and had at er.
I like hot rodding the old DIY way but it's getting harder to find the parts to do so.

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That is rare to find. It still would be somewhat expensive for someone that can not do the thinking or work.
 
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