• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

mp cam

cwhubb

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:25 AM
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
639
Reaction score
81
Location
Jay oklahoma
What does everyone think of the old mp 533 hyd cam for a 98% street driven 440ci. I found a brand new, never used one. the thing that worries me is the 320 advertised duration, I don't know what it does @ 50. I have a crane fireball 292 adv duration, basically it's their version of a 509 and to me it doesnt idle all that rough
 
The .533 isn't an often used cam. In my opinion in a stock stroke 440 you are losing usable powerband because you're moving it higher than the 509 but the lifters will float in the area that the 533 will outpull the 509. I'd only use a hydraulic cam that big in a stroker engine. Anything more than the 509 and go to a solid. If you want to go bigger than the 509 I'd look to the .557 solid purpleshaft or something similar. I'm going to be running a Comp XS290S, which is also similar.

If its real cheap and money isn't an object and youre like me give it a shot, its only an afternoon and some gaskets. Cam swaps are fun. Don't forget to degree it though. I'm assuming you're running a single plane with headers and decent heads.
 
I have a m1 single, headers, 10:5:1 slugs, 410 dana,3500 stall manual shift 727 950hp and heads flow about 290 @ 600
 
way too much duration, that would be like having a 330* duration solid. I haven't noticed anywhere in the Mopar Performance Race Engine Manual (or DC engine manual) that states to use this camshaft. Like stated before, the powerband would be unusable in a hyd. lifter variant. I have seen it listed, but with your head flow why restrict yourself to such a relatively low lift camshaft.. The 312/590 solid would be a much better choice, and a cam and lifter kit is only $200.
 
don't really know the specs of the .533 but your combo would run real good with a solid. and i know its a street car, so is my roadrunner. i run a .557 in that, those old MP cams have slow ramps and don't seem to beat parts up.
a properly set up mild solid is extremely low maint, and well worth it on a hot street car. if you were going hyd i'd be looking at a hughes. there is probably a reason the 533 isn't a real popular cam..
 
Thanks for the info, there probably is a reason it's obscure, I never heard of it before either. Maybe they made them for pullers with a hyd cam restriction. I dont know much about modern cam profiles and zero about solids, how high a lift can you go with out modifying a stock valve train? A solid sounds good, I've floated valves lots of times in my wilder days but I've always been afraid of the maintenance horror stories, I'm not good at fractions, thousands, and micro calculations, adjustments, and I dont want to have to constantly be dialing something back in, Like the commercial says set it and forget it
 
what do you guys think of theses cams?

this one is a solid from lunati
SOLID FLAT TAPPET: High performance street/mild bracket cam with good mid range to high end torque and HP. Needs 3000 RPM stall converter, headers, 10.5:1+ compression


2600-6800 rpm
30230741
NA
272 advertised dur
280

243 @ 50
251@ 50
.546 int @ 1.5
.566 exh @ 1.5
110° lsa





Howards cam
722362-08
NA
289 advertised dur
295

254 int @ 50
260 exh @ 50

.550 int lift
.555 exh lift

108 lsa
104


3000-6500* rpm
Rough idle, Street/Strip. Should have 10.5:1+ CR & 3500+ stall.*****


Howards cam this one I only have 10:5:1comp, says it needs 11

721262-08


274
274 advertised

246 dur @ 50
246

.576
.576lift

108 lsa
104




2500-5800*
Fair idle, super mid-range performance. Needs 11.0:1 CR-up.*****


what do you think about the 108 vs 110 lsa?
 
296/557MP solid or 312/590MP solid.. better overall choices. buy yourself a set of used crane ductile
iron adjustable rockers and Smith brothers ball and cup pushrods and you are all set. literally a bullet proof street setup.
 
I think I might try the MP .557 someday, after I put in steeper gears and upgrade to aluminum heads.

cwhubb, I wouldn't worry about the maintenance with the solids. Just need a feeler gauge, I think they are easier to deal with because you get to use a feeler gauge, instead of trying to do something by feel like you have to when setting preload with a hydraulic and adjustable rockers.
 
@Satty, you can set em when the engines at rest? I remember watching my buddy adjust the rockers on my new 340, had to do it when it was running, he nailed it dead on
 
Yeah, I set them with the engine off. But it took me a couple tries to get it right. I may as well have put in a solid cam, I'm leaving some power on the table.
 
Of the Cams listed go with the Howards 722362-08 if you want more power over the .509. The .557 will work about the same as that Howards cam, the .590 is a step up. If you want to run the .590 be ready to spin this thing to 6500 or 7000, if your bottom end won't take that stay with the .557 or similar.
 
the lift isn't what hurts you, it's the long duration & camshaft centerlines &/or valve overlap, especially if it's mainly 98% street driven & an automatic... I would suggest not going over 280*-290*-ish max "advertised duration" at all, {unless it's a really big cubic inch engine, you have all the needed extra necessary parts etc., ported heads, good rods, balanced steel crank, blah blah blah, you don't or won't need it}, IMHFO the lift won't hurt you really, as long as you have the proper clearances everywhere, the proper style machine work done, you have the proper style adjustable valve train, rockers, pushrods length & style etc. & the heads, carb, fuel system, proper sized fuel pump, lines, pick up/sending unit, intake, proper ignition system & exhaust system to handle the added flow, also the proper gears the TQ converter stall etc.... Just don't be cheap when it comes to your heads, camshaft & valve-train components, I highy suggest that you contact/call a couple of reputable camshaft manufacturers Comp, Lunati, Crane, Isky whom ever or a custom camshaft grinder & be totally 100% honest when talking with them, tell them what you actually want to do with the car, be completely realistic, not some fantasy miss-matched cam-heads-carb-intake combo & how it will honestly actually be used... IMHFO you will be much happier & money much better spent in the long run, spend it correctly the 1st time.... my $0.02cent, I usually won't & don't give anyone camshaft recommendation, it should be left up-to the camshaft experts, to match your intended usage, your specific parts combo & all necessary needed parts... good luck & happy Moparing
 
:@ Budnicks I pretty much have that combo you're talking about, I'm waiting on the heads and a few other odds and ends so she should run fine in the 290 adv dur range, What I want out of the car is to run at the least 11.90 in the 1/4 at sea level, I don't know what that works out to at my elevation,I'm at 6300 ft and the track is at 5200, I accept that it will idle rough, may run a little hot in traffic, vibrate, etc,
I am by nature rude, crude, unrefined, crass, rough around the edges leaning toward wizened (duck dynasty but without all the glam) with a healthy dollop of "That boy aint right"
so it fits my personality,
 
sea level correction comes out to 12.75 @ 5200ft























To convert your timeslip ET and MPH to sea level. Multiply applicable factor times your ET or MPH.

(Example: You ran a 13.8 @ 100 MPH at 5000' elevation track. The correction factors are .9367 and 1.0661 for 5000'. (13.8 * .9367) = 12.93 , (100 * 1.0661) = 106.61 MPH. So the correct timeslip would be 12.93 @ 106.61 MPH.)

Altitude above Sea Level (Feet) Elapsed Time Factor (ET) Trap Speed Factor (MPH)
1200 .9874 1.0129
1300 .9861 1.0143
1400 .9848 1.0157
1500 .9835 1.0171
1600 .9822 1.0185
1700 .9809 1.0199
1800 .9796 1.0213
1900 .9783 1.0227
2000 .9770 1.0241
2100 .9757 1.0255
2200 .9744 1.0269
2300 .9731 1.0283
2400 .9718 1.0297
2500 .9705 1.0311
2600 .9692 1.0325
2700 .9679 1.0339
2800 .9666 1.0353
2900 .9653 1.0367
3000 .9640 1.0381
3100 .9627 1.0395
3200 .9614 1.0409
3300 .9601 1.0423
3400 .9588 1.0437
3500 .9575 1.0451
3600 .9562 1.0465
3700 .9549 1.0479
3800 .9536 1.0493
3900 .9523 1.0507
4000 .9510 1.0521
4100 .9497 1.0535
4200 .9484 1.0549
4300 .9471 1.0563
4400 .9458 1.0577
4500 .9445 1.0591
4600 .9432 1.0605
4700 .9419 1.0619
4800 .9406 1.0633
4900 .9393 1.0647
5000 .9380 1.0661
5100 .9367 1.0675
5200 .9354 1.0689
5300 .9341 1.0703
5400 .9328 1.0717
5500 .9315 1.0731
Home | Contact Us | Automath | Cam Files | Dyno Search | Forum | Garage | Picture Gallery | Reaction Timer


Copyright © 1997-2013 SMOKEmUP.com All rights reserved.
Advertising Info Disclaimer Privacy Policy
 
@ Budnicks I pretty much have that combo you're talking about, I'm waiting on the heads and a few other odds and ends so she should run fine in the 290 adv dur range, What I want out of the car is to run at the least 11.90 in the 1/4 at sea level, I don't know what that works out to at my elevation,I'm at 6300 ft and the track is at 5200, I accept that it will idle rough, may run a little hot in traffic, vibrate, etc,
I am by nature rude, crude, unrefined, crass, rough around the edges leaning toward wizened (duck dynasty but without all the glam) with a healthy dollop of "That boy aint right"
so it fits my personality
.

That's too funny, at least you admit it... I love that show Duck Dynasty...LOL... no matter what combo you run, especially at altitudes like that, your tune up & your over all combo, "it better be spot on", especially with the carb jetting or your leaving power & et on the table, you can run a few more degrees advanced in the camshaft & ignition timing also, it can help some with altitude, but you will need some really good fuel/gas too, 93 octane at an absolute minimum & more would be allot better, if you ran advance @ the camshaft, I would say like a mixture of race gas & pump gas or a quality Ethanol {or straight methanol, hard to find for street driving, but about a 10% boost in HP if tuned correctly, but needs to be maintained much differently than Gas is} {there are conversion kits for running ethanol or methanol, from Quickfuel} it will help some but it can & will cause some tuning, jetting, even adequate fuel supply issues, could also rot out rubber in the fuel system, oxidation & corrosion are issues to sometimes too... you have to be that much more perfect, with your tune at altitude... good luck, you already giving up 100hp or more already at 5200ft, the actual air density combination of altitude & weather conditions it can be even much higher relative air density altitude/elevation than that even, especially on a hot sunny day, a cloud cover day with cool temps will be much easier... Good luck, you will need it...
 
Back
Top