MSD Ready to Run Distributor - Reliable? Wiring?

[Road Grabber]

I have a 440 at the builder ready to dyno soon and want to make sure he gets the right distributor setup. I bought a MSD Ready to Run Distributor. While looking for ignition wires I read some reviews. Some people had reliability issues with this distributor ignition system crapping out on them. Some very early and some within a few years.

Do anyone out there use this self contained MSD Ready to Run distributor? Do you like it?

Any suggestions for ignition wires?

Is it reliable?

What if any wiring issues? Did you have to run an extra positive battery lead? It's not not in the wiring directions but some have said it's best to run a thicker wire?

If this is not going to be a reliable system I will stick with the Chrysler electronic ignition system I have used for years.....

Thanks in advance for the replies.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have one that I was was talked into by the guy who built the motor. It is fine now, I guess. The biggest complaint I have is the advance adjustment. They use bushings instead of slots, so you are locked into a certain number of degrees instead of the infinite adjustability of slots, and none are available if you want a short duration. The vacuum canisters are not adjustable either, so you have to buy another one, that is if you run vacuum, which I do. This guy who built my motor is in CA. He sent the motor back to me and I could never get it to run without detonation. Jacked around a whole summer with it before he told me to pull the motor, build a crate, and send it back. He ripped the motor apart, replaced pistons and cam to derate, thinking that was the problem. Stuck the new motor on the dyno, and it detonated for him as well. Turned out to be the distributor shaft was riding up at 1800 rpm enough to add 15 degrees of timing. He put a $2 bushing on the shaft to fix it. That education cost him about $4000, and me 9 months without a motor.
On my other 2 cars, I run Firecore distributors with FBO boxes that have a rev limiter built in. Honestly, I like that setup better.

 

[Road Grabber]

Thanks for the reply. My biggest concern is that putting an engine on a dyno is very expensive and I don’t want any problems with especially an issue while trying to break in the motor.
I think I will go back to the electronic ignition and after the engine is running possibly try the distributor.
My original setup was given by the direct connection book years ago with 14 degrees initial and I believe 34 degrees total and it ran great for 30 years.

 

[not so famous bob]

I have one that I was was talked into by the guy who built the motor. It is fine now, I guess. The biggest complaint I have is the advance adjustment. They use bushings instead of slots, so you are locked into a certain number of degrees instead of the infinite adjustability of slots, and none are available if you want a short duration. The vacuum canisters are not adjustable either, so you have to buy another one, that is if you run vacuum, which I do. This guy who built my motor is in CA. He sent the motor back to me and I could never get it to run without detonation. Jacked around a whole summer with it before he told me to pull the motor, build a crate, and send it back. He ripped the motor apart, replaced pistons and cam to derate, thinking that was the problem. Stuck the new motor on the dyno, and it detonated for him as well. Turned out to be the distributor shaft was riding up at 1800 rpm enough to add 15 degrees of timing. He put a $2 bushing on the shaft to fix it. That education cost him about $4000, and me 9 months without a motor.
On my other 2 cars, I run Firecore distributors with FBO boxes that have a rev limiter built in. Honestly, I like that setup better.

\Was that $2 bushing the one that locks on the shaft , up against the underside of the housing < inside the block ??

 

[hunt2elk]

\Was that $2 bushing the one that locks on the shaft , up against the underside of the housing < inside the block ??

It is a bushing with a set screw that goes on the distributor shaft preventing it from moving up.

 

[snakeoil24]

This makes no possible sense how youvhave a distributor that as you say rides up. Something is totally wrong here. The drive shaft is pinned and stays in place with a pinned collar

 

[RemCharger]

It is a bushing with a set screw that goes on the distributor shaft preventing it from moving up.

A collet.

This makes no possible sense how youvhave a distributor that as you say rides up. Something is totally wrong here. The drive shaft is pinned and heals in place with a collar

The collet prevents the distributor drive from riding up the cam drive gear.

 

[4mulas]

I used ine my last motor a 451 and it was great, easy to wire. Bypass your ballast to get a 12v signal…

 

[Road Grabber]

I used ine my last motor a 451 and it was great, easy to wire. Bypass your ballast to get a 12v signal…

Thank you. Any suggestions for spark plug wires?

Do you remember which springs you used? Bushing? Timing specs?

 

[not so famous bob]

It is a bushing with a set screw that goes on the distributor shaft preventing it from moving up.

I wouldnt call it a bushing more like a collar ...

 

[hunt2elk]

I wouldnt call it a bushing more like a collar ...

Yeah, collar would describe it better. Can you tell I'm not a motor guy?

 

[4mulas]

Thank you. Any suggestions for spark plug wires?

Do you remember which springs you used? Bushing? Timing specs?

Built. Y own set of 8.5mm msd wires. There’s a chart with the distributor. can’t remember but I think set the all in advance for around 2400-2600rpm. You’ll have to play with it to see what suits your application best

 

[Road Grabber]

I was planning on getting the 90 degree universal MSD set.
The coil wire has 90 degree ends though. I don’t think that would work. I used a straight end in the last set. So far I don’t see a straight end boot for the MSD coil wire.

Thanks for the replies