Must go to battery

[5.7 hemi]

While does everything that we buy for our car, efi, electric fans, etc., need to go straight to the battery. I understand that the battery acts as a “filter”, but with everything going there, there has to be 8-10 wires. Looks friggin’ ugly and I want it to look nice.

Anyone have some ideas?

 

[multimopes]

I would run one good sized lead to a multi fuse box and tie in there. Actually I think you want a source from the alternator hot side!

 

[5.7 hemi]

My denso alternator goes straight to my battery, but I think a power distribution box, panel, etc. would work nicely.

 

[multimopes]

I have a conventional Chrysler type (Power Master) 95 amp unit. My electrical system was and still is old and an abortion. Wires run through firewall without grommets, etc...Still a work in progress. I installed a 6 circuit expansion fuse box in a convenient location and branched off from there. There are 2 or 3 wires coming off my Alt hot terminal; one feeds my dual electric fans. I don't like to mess with electrical stuff because one, I suck at electrical stuff in general and two, I have a brother who is an electrical engineer! Good luck with your system; I need to do a lot more work on mine! Maybe if I get careless and shock myself, it might help grow hair on my head or stimulate some near dormant brain activity!

 

[5.7 hemi]

I don’t much like electrical either, so I might have a buddy take a look and see what he thinks.

 

[451Mopar]

I know what you mean, but I don't have a good answer.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Also depends if wiring for below 60 amps or 60 and over

 

[rlem1977]

While does everything that we buy for our car, efi, electric fans, etc., need to go straight to the battery. I understand that the battery acts as a “filter”, but with everything going there, there has to be 8-10 wires. Looks friggin’ ugly and I want it to look nice.

Anyone have some ideas?

I'd recommend using a power junction block or terminal strip, same thing. They are made by several of the wiring companies and sold by Summit and Jeg's. We use them in our race car to keep thing neat and organized. Below is a link to one from Ron Francis. Hope this helps.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=JB-57

 

[rlem1977]

I'd recommend using a hot terminal strip or power junction block, same thing. There are several wiring companies that make them - available from Summit and Jeg's. I use these, along with grounding blocks, in our race car to help keep things neat and organized. The power junction box is designed for the items you cite in your post. Here is a link to Ron Francis' version. Hope this helps.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=JB-57

 

[mopar 3 B]

I am cheap and a newer salvaged unit would have everything required with relays.

 

[chtampa]

I bought an ARC Relay Panel to isolate all the heavy current draw items. I can run one power wire to the starter relay post and mount it behind the dash.

 

[451Mopar]

I though the question was about noise immunity, and inductive reactance, on why many components need to connected to battery (a constant power source.)
A distribution block is a good way to clean up the wiring, and connecting it to the battery should be through a large wire. The larger (and shorter) the wire, the lower the inductance and resistance (less noise.) I'm not sure how much difference it makes taking power from the battery or alternator, as it would depend on the size of the wiring connecting them, and other loads on the circuit.
For my Coronet wiring, I want to connect the digital electronic circuits to the battery or a distribution box near the battery, and run a relay box for fans and headlights off the alternator (stuff that dosen't care about line noise.)
I think in most cases, the battery (Under hood) to alternator wiring is fairly short, and if using large wiring like 6AWG, the differences may be so small that it won't matter where you get the power? If the battery is trunk mounted and running a smaller alternator wire like 10 AWG, then there is likely a larger difference in noise between the battery and alternator points?

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Easy, run a fuse block for all of your power accessories in your glove compartment.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...e=UTF8&qid=1522688674&sr=1-4&keywords=bus+bar

As far as getting the power from the trunk mounted battery;
I run a simple two post 'stud-style' junction block (bus bar) under the hood, on one side of the bar, battery (+), alternator (+), as well as starter (+). The second, goes directly through the firewall and into the fuse block, which distributes power to all my accessories and switch panel. I now have little to no wiring under hood, as I mounted my MSD ignition box in the glove compartment as well.

 

[65wgn440]

The main reason the manufacturer's want you to wire directly to battery is to insure the power supply circuit can handle to amperage requirements of their products. They are sort of covering their butts and yours ! There are plenty of other ways to provide a good supply circuit, some of which others have mentioned, but the manufacturers can't rely on most people knowing how to do it properly. And, to me, the alternator connection is usually not a good idea in these cars (wire gauge drastically undersized), unless that circuit had been updated previously.

 

[Yatzee]

While does everything that we buy for our car, efi, electric fans, etc., need to go straight to the battery. I understand that the battery acts as a “filter”, but with everything going there, there has to be 8-10 wires. Looks friggin’ ugly and I want it to look nice.

Anyone have some ideas?

This is what you need but maybe not 5. They will do everything you want in one spot and are great quality.
https://warrperformance.com/?product=gm-distribution-block-set-of-5

 

[Shorthorse]

65wgn440 said it best. The manufacturer sells to anybody and they want it to make as easy as possible. Lots of good ideas here and an additional termination point is the best but there are other things to consider.
These newly added parts usually have inline fuses. That's Ok but if you are adding multiple items, a new fuse panel may be in order. An adequate gauge feed wire for the new fuse panel and it's load capacity is very important as well as the new fuse panels load rating. It can be as neat and clean as you make it.
Anything tied directly to the battery is "un-switched". Here's the tricky part, if you determine that a device needs to be "switched" (only on when the ignition switch is "on"), then you will need to attach the device to the ignition side of your wiring harness. Now is when old wiring, old connections, amp gauges and bulkhead terminals get the load which is scary. If you're not comfortable with that, make them un-switched and just remember to turn everything off.

 

[Shorthorse]

Easy, run a fuse block for all of your power accessories in your glove compartment.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...e=UTF8&qid=1522688674&sr=1-4&keywords=bus+bar

As far as getting the power from the trunk mounted battery;
I run a simple two post 'stud-style' junction block (bus bar) under the hood, on one side of the bar, battery (+), alternator (+), as well as starter (+). The second, goes directly through the firewall and into the fuse block, which distributes power to all my accessories and switch panel. I now have little to no wiring under hood, as I mounted my MSD ignition box in the glove compartment as well.

I agree, Blue Sea makes some great stuff. I've wired three race cars with their fuse panels. High quality and I like the screw terminals as opposed to the push on style. I also like the ground buss integrated into the fuse panel.
I did this one on my friends 63. The lexan panel is mounted on drawer slides for easy access.