Mathias B
Member
Long post, hopefully not too close to all other related no start/not stay running Mopar BBs. I did not directly at least get help when I have tried to screen those through.. might also be info was there but I’m not understanding it.
Last year, Autumn, the 383-68 for the Charger Superbee was fully renovated (outsourced), it became a 432.
- 440 source crank and H-rods, Icon pistons 4.28" bore
- E-street heads
- Hydraulic flat tappet comp cam XL285-HL10, Lifters comp cam promagnum 867, 1.6 rocker arms
- Re-used Torker 2 intake
- Re-used the existing carb Holley 750 VAC
- Re-used the Hooker headers
- Re-used MP distributor with VAC advance, MSD Blaster 2 coil
- MSD 6AL ignition box
Oil mods, heads checked and prepped and intake incl. some porting
~10.4 CR and ~490hp @5500 rpm, ~510 lb-ft @4100 rpm.
Timing set ~1000 rpm @ 16deg and all in mechanical 36deg
Re-used, but did have it conditioned, the ~3000 stall converter that has been in the car since got it.
Electrical fuel pump close, low down at tank and return style regulator at carb. Set to and is keeping 6 psi.
I did not have time much last Autumn, before winter, to test it out but we had some occasional (minor) starting issues on the dyno. And when in the car, it was almost impossible to start with engine warm. In general it felt to run great, even with the 3:23 gears in the car and maybe not really built for max low down torque.
The starting issues hot, I was (together with engine builder) thinking it likely relate to old battery becoming weak, bad and tiny made ground and feeds, old
original harness that has been hacked/modified by previous owners. Many cables brittle, corroded and was causing minor shorts occasionally that had to be fixed as the popped up (turn signals, tail lights etc).
During last winter, spring, I upgraded all electrical.. used as a base Painless Mopar universal kit that came with the car, never taken into use. Made new bulkhead connector with Deutsh DT style connectors and used the same type of connectors (Deutsch DT) in many places. Dakota digital RTX gauges in, new large quality feed battery-mini starter (starter was in car when got it as was the battery in trunk): ~0/2 AWG (70mm2) to starter, same size ground battery – chassis and even a 0/2 AWG from battery – to the bolt that go through 727 bellhousing/engine block/starter. Engine with ground straps. 6 AWG (16mm2) to ground hub inside and 6 AWG positive feed to inside hub that feed all constant positive including relays for head lights. Fuses added to protect most.
During winter I did also put in new headliner, floor mat and re-conditioned the heater box (non-AC), rebuilt the leaking heater core.
All works as should when testing what is possible with key off and key on, "run", no issues.
BUT engine does not want to start now, stay running no matter what kind of procedure I try with the gas.
- Attempts to start and fire but I cannot keep it running
- Tried also longer cranking but it just get into some kind of combination some firing and just starter rotating it
- If testing to start several times or keep cranking, it ends with a small backfire through carb and then I stop testing for that day
Engine gets fuel according to to me, plugs get little bit wet (have 98 oct RON , corresponds to ~93 oct AKI in US) + had in stabilizer during winter. Accelerator pump squirts, checked float levels and have tried with idle/mix screws around the 1.5 turn open.
Spark plug wires were tested in Autumn and told to be in good shape, including connectors.
The MSD box wiring including coil wiring, dist wiring I have gone several times through. All seems ok, even tried to carefully not go at all in parallel with any other cabling with the dist wires to the MSD box. Testing seem to me that no issue MSD box and coil related, at least not to hinder it from starting as I can see, understand.
Spark plug cables I have not touched, except plug off to check few plugs, but did check just in case all are to correct cylinders.
For the distributor, last Autumn in dyno, it was by the engine builder changed magnetic pickup, adjusted the tolerance and put on a new dist cap.
Distributor I have not yet touched, also since I’m a rookie in this (will be first time if I start setting up timing..if I have to do that) and little bit thinking why, why would distributor changed anything during winter in warm garage..
What would you propose to check next? Feel free to question, propose re-checks.
I would guess go on to the distributor: check mag.pickup, cap, rotor… this because I’m thinking it is not firing frequently enough according to the timing light when cranking.
See videos, longer video is on cyl.5 and shorter, ending with small backfire through carb is on cyl.1.
Note I ended start attempt maybe too fast but it would just go on to some kind of combination intermediate ignition and rotation with starter..
How common is it that MP dist can start to miss distributing the spark, not getting sparks out to plugs when cranking, rotating slow?
When cranking, voltage is down to ~10.5V..should be good as I know, also for MSD box. No ballast in use. Battery is new and I will charge if it starts to drop voltage more.. no load it has ~12,4 volts now.
Thankful for proposals what to check, attempt next.
Last year, Autumn, the 383-68 for the Charger Superbee was fully renovated (outsourced), it became a 432.
- 440 source crank and H-rods, Icon pistons 4.28" bore
- E-street heads
- Hydraulic flat tappet comp cam XL285-HL10, Lifters comp cam promagnum 867, 1.6 rocker arms
- Re-used Torker 2 intake
- Re-used the existing carb Holley 750 VAC
- Re-used the Hooker headers
- Re-used MP distributor with VAC advance, MSD Blaster 2 coil
- MSD 6AL ignition box
Oil mods, heads checked and prepped and intake incl. some porting
~10.4 CR and ~490hp @5500 rpm, ~510 lb-ft @4100 rpm.
Timing set ~1000 rpm @ 16deg and all in mechanical 36deg
Re-used, but did have it conditioned, the ~3000 stall converter that has been in the car since got it.
Electrical fuel pump close, low down at tank and return style regulator at carb. Set to and is keeping 6 psi.
I did not have time much last Autumn, before winter, to test it out but we had some occasional (minor) starting issues on the dyno. And when in the car, it was almost impossible to start with engine warm. In general it felt to run great, even with the 3:23 gears in the car and maybe not really built for max low down torque.
The starting issues hot, I was (together with engine builder) thinking it likely relate to old battery becoming weak, bad and tiny made ground and feeds, old
original harness that has been hacked/modified by previous owners. Many cables brittle, corroded and was causing minor shorts occasionally that had to be fixed as the popped up (turn signals, tail lights etc).
During last winter, spring, I upgraded all electrical.. used as a base Painless Mopar universal kit that came with the car, never taken into use. Made new bulkhead connector with Deutsh DT style connectors and used the same type of connectors (Deutsch DT) in many places. Dakota digital RTX gauges in, new large quality feed battery-mini starter (starter was in car when got it as was the battery in trunk): ~0/2 AWG (70mm2) to starter, same size ground battery – chassis and even a 0/2 AWG from battery – to the bolt that go through 727 bellhousing/engine block/starter. Engine with ground straps. 6 AWG (16mm2) to ground hub inside and 6 AWG positive feed to inside hub that feed all constant positive including relays for head lights. Fuses added to protect most.
During winter I did also put in new headliner, floor mat and re-conditioned the heater box (non-AC), rebuilt the leaking heater core.
All works as should when testing what is possible with key off and key on, "run", no issues.
BUT engine does not want to start now, stay running no matter what kind of procedure I try with the gas.
- Attempts to start and fire but I cannot keep it running
- Tried also longer cranking but it just get into some kind of combination some firing and just starter rotating it
- If testing to start several times or keep cranking, it ends with a small backfire through carb and then I stop testing for that day
Engine gets fuel according to to me, plugs get little bit wet (have 98 oct RON , corresponds to ~93 oct AKI in US) + had in stabilizer during winter. Accelerator pump squirts, checked float levels and have tried with idle/mix screws around the 1.5 turn open.
Spark plug wires were tested in Autumn and told to be in good shape, including connectors.
The MSD box wiring including coil wiring, dist wiring I have gone several times through. All seems ok, even tried to carefully not go at all in parallel with any other cabling with the dist wires to the MSD box. Testing seem to me that no issue MSD box and coil related, at least not to hinder it from starting as I can see, understand.
Spark plug cables I have not touched, except plug off to check few plugs, but did check just in case all are to correct cylinders.
For the distributor, last Autumn in dyno, it was by the engine builder changed magnetic pickup, adjusted the tolerance and put on a new dist cap.
Distributor I have not yet touched, also since I’m a rookie in this (will be first time if I start setting up timing..if I have to do that) and little bit thinking why, why would distributor changed anything during winter in warm garage..
What would you propose to check next? Feel free to question, propose re-checks.
I would guess go on to the distributor: check mag.pickup, cap, rotor… this because I’m thinking it is not firing frequently enough according to the timing light when cranking.
See videos, longer video is on cyl.5 and shorter, ending with small backfire through carb is on cyl.1.
Note I ended start attempt maybe too fast but it would just go on to some kind of combination intermediate ignition and rotation with starter..
How common is it that MP dist can start to miss distributing the spark, not getting sparks out to plugs when cranking, rotating slow?
When cranking, voltage is down to ~10.5V..should be good as I know, also for MSD box. No ballast in use. Battery is new and I will charge if it starts to drop voltage more.. no load it has ~12,4 volts now.
Thankful for proposals what to check, attempt next.
