My 512 Build

[Mike Gaines]

Block is at machine shop now getting prepped for Steel Billet Main Caps.

I bought the Steel Billet Main Caps and Steel Billet Girdle from 440 Source to make the bottom end about as strong as it can get.

We are "hard blocking" it also about 1/2 way up in the block. Will still have water in 1/2 of the block and the heads.

 

[cdr]

Keep us posted!!!

 

[moparcrazy]

mike is this a track car or street car or Both

 

[383man]

I cant wait to see the large smile it puts on you face when you nail it ! Ron

 

[Mike Gaines]

mike is this a track car or street car or Both

It is a "genuine" Pro-Street Build.
I will drive it only to 3-4 car shows a year (about 25 miles round trip each) and the rest is Drag Racing.
Trailering it to the track.

Most "so-called" Pro Street cars have a lot of hot rod parts, make smoky burn-outs, advertise tons of horsepower but are never "tested" at the dragser to prove their performance.

This car will be a true performance streetable car. It has current California License Plates. It is insured with Hagerty.
It has working headlites, tail lites, brake lites, turn signals and horn. I have taken out the windshield wipers and heater.
It has a full dashboard, glove box, etc. Regular glass windows that roll up and down.

It has a giant "BE-COOL" aftermarket radiator with twin fans on electric controlled thermostats. Earl's Trans Cooler

I just sent the converter back to Lenny at Ultimate in North Carolina and he is going to set up my converter off the dyno sheets that I supply to him. (He built the converter about 4 years ago).

Cal-Trak mono leaf rear springs with Cal Trak bars, Cal-Trak front 90/10's and Cal-Trak adjustable rears

Mickey Thompson Street ET Drag DOT 11.25 wide (28x13.50x15) slicks (non-radial), narrowed rear end and mini-tubbed, and Moroso 28" DS-2 Drag Special 4 ply front tires

My engine builde is going to bring the motor in at around 625HP and 600lbs Torque at 11.25 CR so I can race (and drive) with Pump Gas. At the drags I can run VP 100 Race Gas and get about 1/10 better ET, if I want.

If all goes well it should run around 10.70 and 125 or so plus then be able to drive it into the hamburger stand

 

[Budnicks]

Interesting build

good luck

 

[cudatom]

Mike your combo sounds very much like the 512 I'm getting ready to put in my 67. What heads and cam have you selected?

 

[Mike Gaines]

Mike your combo sounds very much like the 512 I'm getting ready to put in my 67. What heads and cam have you selected?

I have the INDY SEZ heads and INDY Valves, Retainers, Viton Seal and Locks along with the INDY 9.75" long Pushrods.

He is going to use COMP Valve Springs.

My engine builder is having ENGLE CAMS custom grind a cam specifically for my motor, car, weight, etc, etc. It will be around 620" lift. Along with Solid Lifters supplied by ENGLE.

The motor will also have 440 Source 1.6" roller rockers.

I included a picture of the INDY HEADS, INDY DUAL PLANE INTAKE and MIGHTY DEMON 850CFM CARB.

 

[383man]

Mike if it runs 10.70's at 125 mph then you and I would be a good race. Its alot of fun racing a car that runs about the same as your car as then you know you need to hit a good lite to win. To bad we live on different ends of the country. Ron

 

[Mike Gaines]

Ron,
In 1963 I owned and raced a 1963 Aluminum Front End MAX WEDGE Plymouth. It was basically a "stock" Stage III 13.5-1 Max Wedge Motor. Back then the maximum converter stall speed was about 1800rpm. I ran 7" Goodyear Blue Streak Drag Slicks at about 7lbs screwed to the 15x6 black wheels.
I ran around 12.25 at around 115 most of the time. I was only 21 years old....lol.
Your car kinda reminds me of that car.....plus....I am measuring the anticipated et's of my new 512" after the et's that your car runs.
Actually mine "should be" faster as I think my car should be a little lighter than yours. I have fiberglass front fenders, fiberglass hood and decklid and fiberglass front and rear bumpers, no back seat, 2 Recaro type front seats , no heater or defroster or windshield wiper motor, aluminum radiator and a fuel cell not a gas tank...but it has never been on a scale.
The car has a narrowed rear end and mini-tubbed to acccept my 11.25 wide MT DOT ET Drag Slicks (non-radial), Cal-Trac mono-leaf springs and bars plus Cal-Trac 9 way adjustable rear shock and Cal-Trac 90/10 shocks up front with Moroso 29inch tall front Drag-Special tires.
I am running a INDY DUAL PLANE INTAKE AND 850 Mighty Demon just like you. I checked with INDY Cylinder Head and they use the same INDY Dual Plane intake and 850 CFM carb on all their crate motors that are "less than" 625HP. They reported to me that their SINGLE PLANE INTAKE and 950CFM (or larger) carb only benefited on a motor with well over 650HP and had RPM range much higher than 6500RPM>
Plus Lenny at Ultimate Converters is rebuilding my converter to exactly match the Torque Readings off my Dyno Charts on the new engine build. Stall will be around 5000 and I will use my MSD 2 step to launch at 2500-2700 RPM. My rear end is 4.10 with a Detroit Locker, 35 spline MOSER axles and 28" tall MT slicks.
But...if it just runs as fast as yours I will still be happy...but just wonder why it didnt go faster .....lol.

 

[383man]

I agree Mike that with what your combo is going to be I wont be surprised if its a bit faster then mine as it should be a bit faster. My converter is not built to my combo as I used the same conveter that was built for my mid 11 second 440 that used to be in my car. Money was tight so I figured I would just try it and see how it works and it seems to work pretty good behind this combo. It flashes about 4200 and drives great on the street. I also agree on the indy dual plane as its a good intake. I use the basic Holley 850 DP and it works very nice for me. I would like to try the MP 337 single plane intake one day with more carb just to see if the car likes it. Maybe one day if I ever get around to it I may try the single plane just to satisfy my curousity to see how it works compared to the Indy dual plane. I really dont think the single plane will have better driveabilty on the street then the Indy dual plane but the single plane may be faster in the 1/4 mile.
And thank you for the kind words about my car. Ron

 

[Mike Gaines]

In regards to street driveability....my old motor (the 440 cubic inch) had an Chrysler M-1 Single Plane and a Holley 950 Ultra HP Race Carb and it drove perfect on the street. No problems at all...idled great, never stumbled, etc.
But...for the drag strip, everything I have read ( including Finkbeinders Mopar Build Book ) says that a dual plane and 850 is the way to go on a motor not seeing north of 6500RPM. On a motor that goes 7500RPM the single plane and bigger carb is the way to go (as I have read and researched)
And...in regards to your car...DONT TOUCH A THING. You have a great car. A 10.70-10.80 at 124+ is nothing to take lightly. So you spend 3000 to 4000 for Cal-Trac suspension and shocks and a new converter, etc, etc....all for 2/10s....aint worth it. And then you gotta spend 2200 for a Dana...and then you will want a trans-brake, etc, etc, all that to go 10.50....see my point. Your car is quite respectable now. Next step is to go faster but lower et's end up costing about $2000 per tenth and a half...or so.
The way I purchased my car it ran consistant 11.90 to 12.00 at 111 to 112mph. It had the Super Stock Springs and a rather mild 440 cubic inch motor with 10-1 pistons and a .570 lift sold cam with 270CFM Iron Heads. I look back on it and maybe I should left it at that.
I guess I am spending the money because I just have the desire to have a 10.50 to 10.80 Pro-Street performance ride....12 Flat just doesnt cut it anymore....lol
BUT...I do understand that the next step is a Dana and a Transbrake Transmission which would probably be about $2200 for the Dana and that aint simple because I have a narrowed rear end (plus my labor to install it.) plus a thousand to upgrade my tranmission to a trans-brake....Those 2 things to go maybe 10.30 or so....aint gonna happen.

 

[cdr]

enjoying this thread!!

 

[cudatom]

Mike sounds like a well thought out set up and your goals should be met easily. Good luck

 

[383man]

In regards to street driveability....my old motor (the 440 cubic inch) had an Chrysler M-1 Single Plane and a Holley 950 Ultra HP Race Carb and it drove perfect on the street. No problems at all...idled great, never stumbled, etc.
But...for the drag strip, everything I have read ( including Finkbeinders Mopar Build Book ) says that a dual plane and 850 is the way to go on a motor not seeing north of 6500RPM. On a motor that goes 7500RPM the single plane and bigger carb is the way to go (as I have read and researched)
And...in regards to your car...DONT TOUCH A THING. You have a great car. A 10.70-10.80 at 124+ is nothing to take lightly. So you spend 3000 to 4000 for Cal-Trac suspension and shocks and a new converter, etc, etc....all for 2/10s....aint worth it. And then you gotta spend 2200 for a Dana...and then you will want a trans-brake, etc, etc, all that to go 10.50....see my point. Your car is quite respectable now. Next step is to go faster but lower et's end up costing about $2000 per tenth and a half...or so.
The way I purchased my car it ran consistant 11.90 to 12.00 at 111 to 112mph. It had the Super Stock Springs and a rather mild 440 cubic inch motor with 10-1 pistons and a .570 lift sold cam with 270CFM Iron Heads. I look back on it and maybe I should left it at that.
I guess I am spending the money because I just have the desire to have a 10.50 to 10.80 Pro-Street performance ride....12 Flat just doesnt cut it anymore....lol
BUT...I do understand that the next step is a Dana and a Transbrake Transmission which would probably be about $2200 for the Dana and that aint simple because I have a narrowed rear end (plus my labor to install it.) plus a thousand to upgrade my tranmission to a trans-brake....Those 2 things to go maybe 10.30 or so....aint gonna happen.

All good advice Mike and thanks. I think alot like you as I also thought that things like .....Cal Tracks , adjustable shocks , more converter and on and on just is not in my budget and like you say it would all be for a few tenths anyway. My budget is tight and my goal was to have a car I could drive to the track and run 10's on pump through the pipes and I have met my goal so I am happy. The one thing I would like to do in the next year or two when I have the money is to put a Dana under the car as I do worry that my 8-3/4 may bite the bullet one day. So thats one reason I dont plan to run my car this year at the track as I want to save some money. I know if I break the rear racing I will be pulling the trans also checking the rear overrunning clutch (sprag).
And not to sound like I am bragging but I am very pleased how my car will run in the 10's with alot of low budget parts. Like my rear shocks are just old school longer normal shocks and my ign is just the MP orange ECU and the suspension is just SS springs and I still use the stock gas tank with a stock 3/8 pick-up. And I run the basic Holley black electric fuel pump. I mean I use some thinhgs that worked good in the 70's and still work now. It seems so many think you have to spend money on all the latest modern high dollar stuff and that parts we used 20 years ago wont work now a days. But some still work fine for us low budget guys. I also saved money by not cutting on my car any as I felt I can run 10's on 9" slicks with no problem so why spend money on moving my springs in and tubbing my car when the tires they make today will hook good so I knew 9" tires would work for me. And I really did not want to cut on my car anyway. So there are ways to save money on our Mopars if we have to.
Make sure you make us a video when you fire that bad boy 512 up in that fine Mopar of yours as I know we all want to hear it. Ron

 

[67coronetman]

Keep posting cause i am looking at building a nice street stroker motor with a 400 or a 440 block not sure yet i already have the 4:15 crank & H-Beam rods just need pistons and of course the other parts like Bearing & seals so on and so on i am running the Indy SR Heads now and they flow 334.5 @ 700 and i am using a Mopar M-1 Intake which i really like but i have heard so much about the Indy Dual Plan Intake and Ron car runs so good with it i am keeping a close watch on this Tread... Please keep us posted and also on your cam Specs...

Thanks so Much Mark.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Keep posting cause i am looking at building a nice street stroker motor with a 400 or a 440 block not sure yet i already have the 4:15 crank & H-Beam rods just need pistons and of course the other parts like Bearing & seals so on and so on i am running the Indy SR Heads now and they flow 334.5 @ 700 and i am using a Mopar M-1 Intake which i really like but i have heard so much about the Indy Dual Plan Intake and Ron car runs so good with it i am keeping a close watch on this Tread... Please keep us posted and also on your cam Specs...[

Thanks so Much Mark.

I will keep everyone posted, Mike