• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

My new Fiberglass Pin-On Deck Lid

I'm going to say this one last time. Tighten the shocks.
Doug
Doug, Thanks, but they are Cal Trac 9 Way Adjustable...NOT Viking Double Adjustable.
They are now set on FULL SOFT, setting #1 on the dial on the shock...I do not know if these single adjustable Cal Trac shocks are adjusting the "compression" Or "rebound"...all I know is that they are single adjustable.
Cal Trac TECHS say to set them on number 1 for a Trans Brake and that worked fine BEFORE I took out the 120 lbs. And that setting works fine AFTER I put 120lbs of ballast back into the trunk.
Is your advice to set them "stiffer" up the scale....like a 5 or 6 setting ? Again, I do not know if this is compression or rebound control.
You say your son has Cal Tracs. Does he have Cal Trac 9 way Shocks ? If so what setting does he have them on ?
Your help is appreciated.
 
#1 is full soft. Calvert shock adjustments affect mainly rebound.
Doug
 

Attachments

  • ShockInstruction.pdf
    130.8 KB · Views: 164
Mike ,
Just try it
I ran mine at #8 &#9 tight when i ran Rancho/Calvert rear shocks . And i was footbraking . T brake is harder to control so you need TIGHTER

Calverts are smart doesnt always make them right . If you are unwilling to try stuff you are wasteing money

Tex
 
Mike ,
Just try it
I ran mine at #8 &#9 tight when i ran Rancho/Calvert rear shocks . And i was footbraking . T brake is harder to control so you need TIGHTER

Calverts are smart doesnt always make them right . If you are unwilling to try stuff you are wasteing money

Tex
I will try to "tighten" the shocks...let us say to 5 or 6 although Cal Trac says 1-3 with a trans-brake. And 1 is their most recommended setting...for a transbrake.
Thanks Tex and Doug for your thoughts.
 
I want a new hood for my Coronet. Who should I call? With a hemi hood scoop. 1966
Give Sled City Fiberglass a call. We have that 66-67 lift off hood in stock for $350 and that scoop is in stock also for $300. Go to our .com site and give us a call.
 
DVW,
I 100% believe what you say BUT right now I do not have the budget
for Viking Shocks....and I have no way of weighing the car for front and back weight distribution.

With the 120lbs out of the trunk area the car does not hook, like I said.
It "unloads" the rear end, I believe is the right terminology, and feels like it is actually bouncing off of the line.

And, like I said above, when I put the 120lbs of ballast back into trunk it hooks normally and gets my normal 60' time of 1.40.

PS: I also agree with Cranky....
---
Mike - tighten those calverts to 9, it will help. Remember I just went through an entire season of what you are experiencing.
 
Mike is there any tracks that do a test and tune night around you. Go play with the settings and get some runs in.
 
---
Mike - tighten those calverts to 9, it will help. Remember I just went through an entire season of what you are experiencing.
Mike, Thank for the advice. I will call Calvert tomorrow and ask them what they think about that. I can make 1 of my practice qualifying runs at the next race with the shocks set on 9 to see if that does the trick...it would be nice because my budget doesn't have the funds to buy the VIKINGS.
Remember, I don't have a problem putting the 120lbs back into the trunk area. I have already tried that and when I did put the 120lbs back into the trunk area (with ballast) I got my normal 1.40 to 1.42 60's times back along with my normal 10.16 to 10.17 ET's @131+.
As I posted above, on 1 run I actually put an EXTRA 75lbs of ballast in the trunk (in addition to the 120lbs, which got my car back to normal) and then changed my RR tire pressure from 16lbs to 15lbs and actually got a 1.40 60 foot and 10.16 ET BUT it pulled the front wheels about 3 feet in the air off the starting line....and, like I said in my above posting, I thought that was pretty cool...so I am going to make up some weight bars (170lbs) to BOLT to the rear frame members where the old OEM tie down hooks were bolted into the frame.
It has proven it will still run 10.16 to 10.17 (maybe MPH will be off somewhat) plus it will have that spectator appealing 3 foot wheel stand coming off the line...it does about a 2 foot wheel stand with my old setup.
I have done slow motion video of my car launching and it goes about 1 foot BEFORE the wheels start lifting off the ground so the wheel stand, even if 2' OR 3', doesn't effect my 60' or 1/4 mile ET but lifting UP immediately out of the beams and wont make me red lite because of the lift either.
When I started this last weight reduction plan it was in an effort to get a 9.999 time slip but I now don't think that is possible without spending several hundred dollar for VICKING double adj shocks just to try them out and see what happens when I make a run with ALL of any ballast out of the trunk...just 120lbs lighter in the trunk area.
 
Mike ,
All the refitting of weight is simply crutching the problem . Until you are prepared to try adjusting rear shocks , well we are all pissing into the wind

Tex
 
Mike ,
All the refitting of weight is simply crutching the problem . Until you are prepared to try adjusting rear shocks , well we are all pissing into the wind

Tex
T

Thanks for all the advice. I will try the different Cal Trac shock setting at the next race,which is now in Feb.
 
As mentioned, you need to tighten the shocks. We have had caltracs on both of our cars. The shocks were always tight. Calvert always recommended setting them at full stiff and working back the other way to find your ideal combination.

The weight missing in the trunk has nothing to do with your issues. Mine is the same way as yours. You should be 1.38 or quicker in the 60 with your engine combo all day. Mine is also nose heavy by 264lbs. Get the shocks right and I think you will find your missing et.

IMG_6046.JPG
 
One other thing to keep in mind Mike. If you were able to increase front shock rebound it would also help. It sure did on my car.
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top