New Fuse Box Corrosion?

[dodge68charger]

Hey Guys,

I took apart my 68 charger to redo some things. I noticed on the fuse block the terminal with the black wire was extremely corroded.

The car has never ran for more than 10 minutes in the past 5 years with the new under dash harness installed

The only electrical modification I did was run a 4ga wire from the alternator to starter relay with a 200 amp fuse and tie the red/black wires together for the ammeter

Gonna run dakota digital gauges so no Ammeter

All the other terminals are in mint condition

Thanks

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

Here in Florida "Corrosion X" is what works best. Dielectric compound is what we used to use before C-X came out.

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[dodge68charger]

Thank you. Just wondering if it could be caused by a terminal overheating issue.

 

[Billccm]

Not sure what caused the rust, but it wasn't a over current condition. Now the rust could cause a voltage drop that would cause heat and could lead to failure. Shine it up with crocus cloth.

I'm in the minority here when it comes to any dielectric grease. Don't like it. Grease attracts dirt. Dirt attracts moisture.

I like to generously soak any and all electrical contacts in DeOxIt. Buy it off eBay and get the "LMH" sprayer as the other sprayers fail.

 

[Sinitro]

Rust is caused by moisture and/or oxidation...
Or even a poor, loose, high resistance connection.
Very common with our 50 year old Mopars...
As long as the rust is just on the surface, disconnect
the battery. Using a fine grit sandpaper, lightly clean up the
terminals. Also if required tighten up the crimps on the female terminals.
Then coat the terminals with dialectric grease...
And reassemble...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Davefinan]

Corrosion can be caused by joining two dissimilar metals. Electrolysis I believe it is called. The picture appears that the male terminal is a steel and the female is brass or copper.
But you say it is a new fuse box so idk…hard to believe it would happen so quickly.

 

[dodge68charger]

Ya theres no way it would corrode that fast. The cars been covered and inside and not a spec of corrosion on any other terminal

I gotta trace whats hooked up to the black wire from the fuse box

All the wiring in the car is new

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The only electrical modification I did was run a 4ga wire from the alternator to starter relay with a 200 amp fuse and tie the red/black wires together for the ammeter

Black is the accessory feed from the ignition switch.

Better hope you never experience a short in any of the unfused wiring or components, a lot of wires will burn before a 200 amp fuse blows with that bypass in place.

 

[dodge68charger]

Should i go to 100 amp fuse?

Or go fusible link?

Its a 4 gauge wire from alternator to starter relay

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

100 amps is still too much for the stock 12 ga unfused wires. That bypass defeats the original circuit protection.

 

[dodge68charger]

Great video!!!

What would you suggest?

 

[dodge68charger]

I’ll get rid of the 200 amp fuse for sure.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Great video!!!

What would you suggest?

That would depend on loading (stock, not-so-stock), at a minimum something based on the factory fleet bypass or the C-body bypass, addresses the real weakness in the original design, the bulkhead connectors in the charge path but retains correct circuit protection. Lose the “shunt wire” bypass, very dangerous, bypasses the stock circuit design (fusible link).

Washington state? Where abouts curiously?

 

[dodge68charger]

Located in Vancouver B.C. But spend some time in Washington.

I’d love to ask you a few questions on the bypass stuff if you have time for a phone call sometime

[email protected]

My b-body inbox is full lol