Not charging

[luckylee]

68 383 with electronic voltage electronic ignition instead of points. Hi performance factory voltage regulator. Not charging. I have power and ground to the regulator. Removed green ground eire from regulator and grounded it. Still not charging. I have power at the alternator and I am assuming green wire is grounded I can’t get to it. Factory a/c car.engine turns off when negative battery terminal is dis one Ted. Amp meter works on dash. Shows discharge. Any ideas.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

That regulator doesn’t handle negative on wires but positive. Blue to plug from ign key in RUN, and green wire from reg to alt brush. The need for ground on reg is at chassis but not on wire.

The only system that bypasses the reg grounding a wire is the electronic reg to two fields/brushes alts, where grounding the green wire makes to get both fields working for a full fielding alt to check if alt is working or not. On these the green wire is the return from rotor what closes the circuit to ground at regulator to get current running throught the rotor (damn, how hard is to describe this just to shut out some mouths where say the green wire is a ground wire opening and closing on regulator is the same). But on the single field alts, the green wire is a straight positive source regulated by the regulator while the other brush is already grounded.

 

[luckylee]

Ok thx for the reply and all of that was good but ok how to I test whatever to see what I need to get it charging ?

 

[RJRENTON]

68 383 with electronic voltage electronic ignition instead of points. Hi performance factory voltage regulator. Not charging. I have power and ground to the regulator. Removed green ground eire from regulator and grounded it. Still not charging. I have power at the alternator and I am assuming green wire is grounded I can’t get to it. Factory a/c car.engine turns off when negative battery terminal is dis one Ted. Amp meter works on dash. Shows discharge. Any ideas.

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It appears that you have a ROUND BACK ALTERNATOR with a single field wire connection...green wire. The heavy BLACK wire is the output connection to the system. This green wire provide the rotating field winding's power via the voltage regulator. The regulator needs two wires: blue wire provides the reference voltage and the green wire provides power to alternator. THEY CANNOT BE CONNECTED TOGETHER AS SHOWN IN THE PIX. Get a new electronic voltage regulator replacement that has the two connections but resembles the original mechanical voltage regulator, connect as instructed. ......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON

 

[luckylee]

Bad picture they are not connected together. 2 blues go to the red wire and the green goes to the stud. So now what. Where should I have power and when. Do I run continuity tests. New idea. That is a factory high performance voltage regulator that comes blue and someone painted it black.

 

[RJRENTON]

Bad picture they are not connected together. 2 blues go to the red wire and the green goes to the stud. So now what. Where should I have power and when. Do I run continuity tests. New idea. That is a factory high performance voltage regulator that comes blue and someone painted it black.

TEMPORARILY DISCONNECT THE GREEN WIRE FROM THE REGULATOR. With a jumper wire, temporarily connected green wire to the positive battery...that will provide full field voltage to the alternator and it will or should charge at max. This proves the alternator is ok. You may just need a new voltage regulator....btw....there is no "factory high performance voltage regulator"....after market maybe....all the regulator does is adjusts the alternator's field voltage to approximately 5-7 volts output to maintain approximately 14.5 volts system voltage at the battery. The regulator must be grounded or it will not work correctly......
BOB RENTON

 

[luckylee]

Thx I will do that. This is the voltage tegulator

 

[RJRENTON]

Thx I will do that. This is the voltage tegulatorView attachment 1546529

There are significantly less expensive ELECTRONIC VOLTAGE REGULATORs on the internet/ ebay that look like the origional Mopar mechanical voltage regulator but have modern internals. for approximately $30.00....suggest you look on Google or perhaps someone will recommend a source .....there is nothing that makes the one you show worth that $$$.or is heavy duty...what ever that means......REMEMBER, THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR CASE MUST BE GROUNDED....EITHER THRU THE MOUNTING SCREWS TO THE FIREWALL OR A SEPERATE WIRE TO THE BLOCK (14 gauge is fine)......
BOB RENTON

 

[luckylee]

Ok picked up a standard voltage regulator with a new pig tail. Grounded the regulator hooked up the blue to blue and tge green to green. Still no charging. I hooked up battery voltage to green wire and I get 15 bolts running like you said. So what am I missing here ? I did a continuity test on the green wire from the alternator to the disconnected green wire and it has zero issues. I am definitely missing something here ?

 

[luckylee]

Ok update I put the original resultant back in hooked up and now it is charging? Car runs like garbage at an idle now ?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Voltage regulator is correctly matched with the roundback “single field” alt… diff stuff is the correct application to the driving conditions/use.

just saying…