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Painting 101

satellite66

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A couple of paint questions: Which type urethane or enamel? I believe hardener is to assist with drying, but what is the reducer used for? Which type of reducer: Fast, medium or slow? Or Fast 0 VOC, Med 0 VOC or Slow 0 VOC? What is the difference?
 
I would stick with a urethane, but you will need to do so from primer up. It is not a good idea to mix and match paint systems. The hardener is to help it dry as you so. Urethane do not dry like the old lacquer primers as they would air dry. The urethane are made to have a hardener to chemically dry them.
Reducers are to thin what you are spraying to make it come out of the gun and give it some flow. The hotter the temp the slower reducer you want to use. Cooler temps faster drying reducers. Hope that helps you out.
Matt
 
Dido on the urethane, hardener's make for a more durable finish as well. I would avoid the fast reducer if possible, it evaporates so quickly that it doesn't allow as much flow once on the car resulting in more unevenness (orange peal or roughness).
 
Think of reducer as paint thinner. VOC stands for Volatile Organic Compounds. That's the nasty stuff (isocyanates) that'll rot yer brain and nervous system if you breathe it in. Some places require low or no VOC paints. If you're in one of those areas your local paint store will know. When you see somebody do something really stupid, or crazy, and you say he's having an "isocyanate moment", if anybody knows what you're talking about....he's probably a painter.

The new urethane paints don't so much "dry", as they outgas. The solvents evaporate to a point where only the solids (pigment) are left behind. That's why recoat and cure times are so important.
The hardener is also sometimes called the catalyst or activator. It's mixed in with the color and reducer at the time of spraying. Otherwise the paint would harden in the can. Some companies, House of Kolor for one, pack thier paint under a nitrogen "blanket" to keep em fresh. If you're paint comes packed like this, don't crack the seal until its time to spray. It's hard to beat back the temptation I know. But the paint can start to deteriorate when its exposed to air for too long. It's why catalyzed paints are so much more durable than say, rattle cans which have to remain under pressure to stay liquid. Slow, med, and fast reducers have already been covered. I think that's everything, if you have any more questions feel free to ask...
 
Think of reducer as paint thinner. VOC stands for Volatile Organic Compounds. That's the nasty stuff (isocyanates) that'll rot yer brain and nervous system if you breathe it in. Some places require low or no VOC paints. If you're in one of those areas your local paint store will know. When you see somebody do something really stupid, or crazy, and you say he's having an "isocyanate moment", if anybody knows what you're talking about....he's probably a painter.

The new urethane paints don't so much "dry", as they outgas. The solvents evaporate to a point where only the solids (pigment) are left behind. That's why recoat and cure times are so important.
The hardener is also sometimes called the catalyst or activator. It's mixed in with the color and reducer at the time of spraying. Otherwise the paint would harden in the can. Some companies, House of Kolor for one, pack thier paint under a nitrogen "blanket" to keep em fresh. If you're paint comes packed like this, don't crack the seal until its time to spray. It's hard to beat back the temptation I know. But the paint can start to deteriorate when its exposed to air for too long. It's why catalyzed paints are so much more durable than say, rattle cans which have to remain under pressure to stay liquid. Slow, med, and fast reducers have already been covered. I think that's everything, if you have any more questions feel free to ask...


...and to replace your blanky once the can is open...

http://www.bloxygen.com/
 
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