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Panel welding tips

satellite66

satellite66

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Anyone have any tips on welding quarter panels? I will be attempting to do so for the first time on one of my projects (not a mopar). I am acquiring replacement panels donated from another car to replace the rear quarter panels on my car. Just wondering if anyone has any tips on how to avoid warping, burn through or anything else I might need to know.
 
For the long seam, use lots of little tack welds ~8" apart. quick ~1 second trigger pull per tack. Leap frog working down the seam allowing it to cool completely before coming back around again.

OK to leave gaps between tacks, green back sand it smooth and come back to fill in. wash, rinse, repeat :yes:
 
another thing to do to get some practice it to find some old scrap metal if you can that is lying around and do a couple practice welds.
 
patience, patience, patience. slow, slow, slow. Heat is the enemy. I back my welds with copper to pull the heat away. tack-tack-tack.

The article quoted uses lead solder which would be a great choice. I haven't leaded much yet so cannot comment, but USC all-metal is a good option if you don't want to play with lead solder.

Note: when you grind, go slow, do not HEAT the panel. Grind small amounts slowly and let it cool. Grinding heat is just as bad as welding heat.

For the welder I have used 0.030" MIG wire, but after this forum suggested 0.023" I tried it and its much easier to use. (thanks forum!!).

Practice is good too, I recommend practicing on the exact same metal thickness you are going to use on the car. That way you can set the voltage and wire rate when you practice.

Holding the panel is place is critical. There was some discussion about sheetmetal screws or clecos. I use only clecos but I can see sheetmetal screws as a viable option.

I am sure others will pipe-in.

Randy
 
Was there nothing in the Mopar Muscle article regarding safety of grinding LEAD!? I'd hate to turn my garage into an EPA Superfund clean-up site! Other than that, GREAT ARTICLE!
 
I've got some high power magnets that work nicely for holding and aligning panels for welding, you might give it a try. Take your time, it quicker than doing it over. Best to ya.
 
wedgeheaded said:
I've got some high power magnets that work nicely for holding and aligning panels for welding, you might give it a try. Take your time, it quicker than doing it over. Best to ya.
Click to expand...

I use magnets too. Neo magnets are stong but don't get them hot, they demagnetize at about 200C. Ceramic mags are cheap and can handle the heat, but are weak.
 
I was curious about the cutting off a quarter do you cut it the exact size as the replacement panel or do you leave like a 1/16 of an inch of excess for grinding? Cant remember where I read that so just running it buy U guys sorry to hijack the thread.
 
If you buy an AMD quarter-a full qtr, just remove the old one where it is welded on. If you have your car media blasted, you can see where the spot welds are really easy. It's actually a better fit if you do a whole qtr; less welding than a skin.
 
I am working with a skin and I am going to be tackling it myself I think,same as in that mopar muscle article except I have never done it,and I am scared s@#tless.
 
Bens69PlymouthSatellite said:
I was curious about the cutting off a quarter do you cut it the exact size as the replacement panel or do you leave like a 1/16 of an inch of excess for grinding? QUOTE]

Sounds like you're butt welding it in as opposed to lapping... then I think your answer is yes...kinda, but 1/16 is pretty large. Fit the panel as pefect as possible and scribe a line around it, remove the panel and cut AT OR just shy of the line. Is this the 1/16 you mention?

Then you have to fit and refit grinding back the edge until it fits right. It's risk vs. reward here, leave too much and you'll be all day and risk warping with grinding heat. Leave too little and it's gone forever.

Don't be afraid to cut/trim the new panel either.
Click to expand...
 
You may likely mess it up, but, at the time you may be happy with your work. At least this is my methods. I am currently cutting up what I did years ago b/c I can do it better today, when at the time I thought it was inspection grade! So, with my work, I am my own worst judge! Good luck, and, post pics if you care to, even if they are messed up, I won't poke fun at ya, I like seeing the unglamorous shots of our cars' conditions.
 
Which welding method do you think is best, butt welding or overlap? And thanks for all the replies. I'm still waiting for my replacement quarters so I haven't started anything yet.
 
Butt is usually better, but more difficult to do. Overlap, or Lap welding is easier but you will have to cover/protect the back of the weld after as debris/moisture can collect there.
 
Donny said:
Butt is usually better, but more difficult to do. Overlap, or Lap welding is easier but you will have to cover/protect the back of the weld after as debris/moisture can collect there.
Click to expand...

Yeah, lap is fine for most cars. Open end of lap down is probably better based on plumber's rule #1. Seam sealer afterwards. Lapping resists warping, but you can see it in the trunk if you look hard enough.
 
So in that article link above is that lap welding? that is what I had in mind I have never done any of this before but I am going to attempt it myself I think. what is the lip thats on the top of the AMD skin for? Do I cut that off?
 
Bens69PlymouthSatellite said:
So in that article link above is that lap welding? that is what I had in mind I have never done any of this before but I am going to attempt it myself I think. what is the lip thats on the top of the AMD skin for? Do I cut that off?
Click to expand...


Yes. You can see that the new skin was cut along the bend line. The old quarter was cut below the same bend line leaving the "angle" bend and producing the overlap. This bend in the old quarter is like angle iron and will resit warping and maintain original shape.

Sent a PM with Correction: NO, it's butt welded. I didn't read far enough in article! sorry. Didn't see the wiz wheel step to butt the seam.
 
Last edited:
So before I test fit the new AMD quarter I should cut the bend line at the top of the amd quarter the one in the article does not appear to have one sorry u will have to bear with me I have never done this before.
 
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