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Parasitic 06 Charger intermittent no starts

Dennis H

Dennis H

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Daytona. 2 owner 54k. Battery 2 years old. This is a second round. Two years ago thought to be the Center Stack. Replaced it. Car parked 3 weeks and started right. Now can go dead in 24 hours. Reads about 9v and trickled brings it right up. Shop is troubleshooting. Very time consuming, check one circuit then wait 20 minutes for it to go to sleep. Thought we heard the rear seat DVD cycling like trying to eject so we pulled the fuse to try that. Also, the red light that blinks normally when alarmed at a faster rate or I didn’t notice it before.
For some time the alarm goes off when opening the trunk without first unlocking the central control. Looking for ideas. Linda shopped a 50k Scatpak and I’m afraid she’ll bring one home. She said it was loud and rode rough. Think it was in sport mode and she didn’t know it. Thank God.
 
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My procedure for this is to take a 2 ohm 30W resistor in series with the battery cable. Measure voltage drop across the resistor with an old analog meter.
Key on but no start. Cycle a few electronic toys. Key off. Measure voltage drop and calculate draw. If draw above specs start to pull fuses one by one to locate. If no draw key back to on without start and cycle other electronic toys.
Another alternative is buy one of those USB chineseium jump packs and get in the habit of jumping each start.
 
Dennis H said:
View attachment 872898 Daytona. 2 owner 54k. Battery 2 years old. This is a second round. Two years ago thought to be the Center Stack. Replaced it. Car parked 3 weeks and started right. Now can go dead in 24 hours. Reads about 9v and trickled brings it right up. Shop is troubleshooting. Very time consuming, check one circuit then wait 20 minutes for it to go to sleep. Thought we heard the rear seat DVD cycling like trying to eject so we pulled the fuse to try that. Also, the red light that blinks normally when alarmed at a faster rate or I didn’t notice it before.
For some time the alarm goes off when opening the trunk without first unlocking the central control. Looking for ideas. Linda shopped a 50k Scatpak and I’m afraid she’ll bring one home. She said it was loud and rode rough. Think it was in sport mode and she didn’t know it. Thank God.
Click to expand...
World of difference in those and current generation ones. We've had both. Our '12 was vastly better quality than our '06.
I figure they've built the same dang basic platform for a dozen years, gotta be getting better at it. :)
Anyone else see where the current model Challenger (same Brampton plant) is one of the most reliable cars currently sold?
True!
 
Yep, diag of these cars for a draw is a PIA.. They are doing it right.
 
Billccm said:
My procedure for this is to take a 2 ohm 30W resistor in series with the battery cable. Measure voltage drop across the resistor with an old analog meter.
Key on but no start. Cycle a few electronic toys. Key off. Measure voltage drop and calculate draw. If draw above specs start to pull fuses one by one to locate. If no draw key back to on without start and cycle other electronic toys.
Another alternative is buy one of those USB chineseium jump packs and get in the habit of jumping each start.
Click to expand...
I'm curious, what's the difference between this way, and using an amp meter with an amp clamp? Is there one?
 
Moparnocar said:
I'm curious, what's the difference between this way, and using an amp meter with an amp clamp? Is there one?
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No difference... the way he described is more accurate.. But the process is the same.
 
The difference is technique. A current clamp might not catch a fast transient like spike or even a slow gradual up and down movement. Some current clamps require larger currents to get measurements.
With the small resistor voltage drop you can measure milliamps of change at milliamps of draw. Plus my old analog meter gives an intuitive sweep visually of the current.
 
Billccm said:
The difference is technique. A current clamp might not catch a fast transient like spike or even a slow gradual up and down movement. Some current clamps require larger currents to get measurements.
With the small resistor voltage drop you can measure milliamps of change at milliamps of draw. Plus my old analog meter gives an intuitive sweep visually of the current.
Click to expand...
True, I usually use a snap on modis, with the graph. I usually can catch that kind of stuff, I think it's comparable to what your doing, or close?
 
Graph? Wow that's a luxury I don't have.
I agree with a graphing function that is a great tool and technique.
 
Billccm said:
Graph? Wow that's a luxury I don't have.
I agree with a graphing function that is a great tool and technique.
Click to expand...
You can buy a snap on vantage cheap. Changes your diagnostic life!

the first shop I worked at had one, but the owner and none of the other techs knew how to use it. I figured it would come in handy so I learned how to use. It came in very very handy.
 
Dennis,
We still have our 07 also with very low miles that we bought new and had all that crazy crap happening plus dash lites flashing and intermittent times, and battery was 1.5yrs old, local place I go to couldn’t correct it, finally I called an old friend who worked for Chrysler in Auburn Hills and he said his tech buddy said that this model was very problematic with battery current changes and to replace the battery with a better one.
Once I did, my problem was eliminated, I know it sounds too easy a fix but it worked for us
Bill

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