Pertronix Igniter Install

[bobfake]

Hi all,

installing a Pertronix Igniter and Flamethrower coil in my ‘69 Super Bee this after. i don’t like to make assumptions, so I’m asking for your feedback.

The car already has some sort of electronic ignition in it…it doesn’t look like a Pertronix. Can you help me ID this part? Looks like it uses a conventional rotor.

I have the following connection for the points/condenser wires out of the distributor with the current setup.(see pics)

.

I believe I should be able to cut this connector on the distributor side and connect to the red/black wires of the Igniter. Do you agree?

Thanks!
Bob

 

[pnora]

That is a factory Mopar electronic distributor. What model Pertronix kit are you using? You need the right kit and the right instructions.

 

[icetech]

Just curious (i just spent the last hour reading up about distributors before i need to buy one soon) and i always ran mopar factory stuff with a orange box (way back), is there a major improvement going with pertronix over stock?

 

[bobfake]

That is a factory Mopar electronic distributor. What model Pertronix kit are you using? You need the right kit and the right instructions.

I have an Igniter 1381A and Flamethrower coil.

 

[RemCharger]

Hi all,

installing a Pertronix Igniter and Flamethrower coil in my ‘69 Super Bee this after. i don’t like to make assumptions, so I’m asking for your feedback.

The car already has some sort of electronic ignition in it…it doesn’t look like a Pertronix. Can you help me ID this part? Looks like it uses a conventional rotor.

It has a factory chrysler electronic ignition.
Yes that's the regular rotor.

View attachment 1416503View attachment 1416504

I have the following connection for the points/condenser wires out of the distributor with the current setup.(see pics)

Those are the magnetic pickup wires for the factory ignition.

View attachment 1416498View attachment 1416499.

I believe I should be able to cut this connector on the distributor side and connect to the red/black wires of the Igniter. Do you agree?

Thanks!
Bob

The new ignition system will have nothing to do with those wires.

Why are you changing from the chrysler ignition? Did it quit?

 

[pnora]

You do not need to cut anything. Red coil positive, black coil negative.

 

[davek]

I changed mine from points,yours is already setup so why change it?

 

[threewood]

The 1381A shows that it is for a single points distributor. It won't work on the electronic distributor.

 

[toolmanmike]

The 1381A shows that it is for a single points distributor. It won't work on the electronic distributor.

 

[threewood]

I think you need the CH 181, but you might need to call them as their listed application looks wrong. It is the same description as CH 161 which is for 6 cylinder.

Or get a single points distributor. @HALIFAXHOPS

 

[threewood]

Just curious (i just spent the last hour reading up about distributors before i need to buy one soon) and i always ran mopar factory stuff with a orange box (way back), is there a major improvement going with pertronix over stock?

I don't believe the newer stuff is as reliable as the older stuff. Lots of people still run the orange box without issue.

My reason for running Pertronix in both my cars, 62 and 69, is that I kept it looking stock and all that was needed was the additional wire to the coil.

 

[icetech]

I don't believe the newer stuff is as reliable as the older stuff. Lots of people still run the orange box without issue.

My reason for running Pertronix in both my cars, 62 and 69, is that I kept it looking stock and all that was needed was the additional wire to the coil.

I was going to just go with a stock type setup but i keep reading that pretty much every ECU made now is garbage and such.. so not sure what i will go with yet. But yeah i never once had a stock system die on me (trick is to keep a spare ecu in the trunk, will never have one die that way)

 

[threewood]

I was going to just go with a stock type setup but i keep reading that pretty much every ECU made now is garbage and such.. so not sure what i will go with yet. But yeah i never once had a stock system die on me (trick is to keep a spare ecu in the trunk, will never have one die that way)

Lots of options. Lots of guys still run points without issue too. But replacement parts made over seas are a crap shoot. NOS points and condensers are worth their weight in gold.

I have a spare Ignitor 3 for my GTX just in case but so far so good after 6 years.

 

[icetech]

Lots of options. Lots of guys still run points without issue too. But replacement parts made over seas are a crap shoot. NOS points and condensers are worth their weight in gold.

I have a spare Ignitor 3 for my GTX just in case but so far so good after 6 years.

Naw, i will never run points.. i know they work but much prefer electronic, My car came with a set of brand new ones in the glove box from the early 70's.... might have to put them up for $500 joking..

 

[turbine68rt]

Lots of options. Lots of guys still run points without issue too. But replacement parts made over seas are a crap shoot. NOS points and condensers are worth their weight in gold.

That's exactly what I've been doing for 36 years, mostly because it's an oem resto. Checking points, setting dwell/timing, some cam lube, and a few drops of oil in the trap door at the beginning of the season takes less time than doing a quick detail and it's good for the entire summer. Spare set of NOS points/condenser in the glove box and life is good.

 

[bobfake]

Thanks all…great feedback. I thought a 1968 383 would be a points distributor…My bad for not checking.

Given what I now know and you have educated me on…does the magnetic pickup go bad on these? Be bad I mean just not running smoothly or do they tend to quit altogether…can the pickup and sleeve be replaced?

Thanks!!! You've a big help…

 

[toolmanmike]

Thanks all…great feedback. I thought a 1968 383 would be a points distributor…My bad for not checking.

Given what I now know and you have educated me on…does the magnetic pickup go bad on these? Be bad I mean just not running smoothly or do they tend to quit altogether…can the pickup and sleeve be replaced?

Thanks!!! You've a big help…

Rarely does anything go wrong inside the distributor. The control box usually is the suspect and the new ones from the parts stores and restoration sites are poor quality. @HALIFAXHOPS is a member here and sells New old stock ignition parts. He can fix you up.

 

[bobfake]

One last question - is it OK to upgrade to the Flamethrower coil from the Accel Super Stock?

 

[threewood]

Thanks all…great feedback. I thought a 1968 383 would be a points distributor…My bad for not checking.

Given what I now know and you have educated me on…does the magnetic pickup go bad on these? Be bad I mean just not running smoothly or do they tend to quit altogether…can the pickup and sleeve be replaced?

Thanks!!! You've a big help…

The air gap needs to be pretty spot on or it will be grumpy and run rough or not at all.

 

[toolmanmike]

The air gap needs to be pretty spot on or it will be grumpy and run rough or not at all.

And what is the gap? Like .008 measured with a brass feeler gauge? Best to check for sure.

There is nothing wrong with a factory electronic system.