Post explosion, Parts are back

dvw

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After my catastrophic failure in May parts are repaired. Both heads were welded. New seats in #3 and #8. Chamber welded in #3. Along with fresh valve job, new valves, springs, locks. Block was welded and furnace brazed in the lower skirt. Cylinder #3 got a sleeve. Bored and honed .030", line honed, decked .002", new lifter bore bushings. I'll get it painted up and start assy soon. Still waiting for the pistons to be gas ported and the pan damage to be welded.
Doug
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66Satellite47

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That is a lot of damage. Tell us again what failed.
 

bearman

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Great looking work. Now for the fun and some new time slips
 

dvw

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Locked #3 bearing on the crank breaking the rod. Piston hit the head hard enough to bend the rings. My friend Dave at Enginecraft welded the iron block and machined it. Heads are -1 Aluminum done by Henry Boyko. He had a friend who will friend weld them.
Doug
 

F4R/T

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Got any close ups of before and after ? It looks clean .. good luck!
 

LemonWedge

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Great to hear you’re making progress, Doug. Please continue to keep us posted. Can’t wait to see how the new bullet performs!
 

Hemirunner

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What originally took out the number 3 bearing? Oil in the chamber?
 

dvw

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What originally took out the number 3 bearing? Oil in the chamber?
That's a good question. Filter was clean 25 passes prior. Bearings had 470 passes on them. All look great except #3 and obviously #4 was damaged do to #3. It was pulling longer wheelies than previous. Damaged pan slightly during #4 run of the season. Run #17 broke a planetary and even though there was a 7400 chip the motor lost all its drivetrain load on the 1/2 shift. Pulled the pan a repaired it. Swinging pick up was not stuck but was slightly closer to the pan bottom. The screen windage tray was also cracked. No screen was available so it went back together w/o it. Next tie out it made 9 solid passes then slowed .04 in the 1/4. We were also running 2nd class in the 1/8th. It was .035 slow in the 1/8 on the next pass. Checked oil, oil pres, vacuum, throttle opening, timing. All were fine. Now that I think back the oil pressure seemed slightly high on the previous run by maybe 5 psi. The fateful pass it stalled going thru the pits. We found a loose MSD ground in staging and though we had it. I guess not.#2 rod looks perfect. Same feed as #3 through the block. The #3 rod was definitely hot. Then broke the bolts, then the rod. So was it oil caught around the crank with no tray? Pick up to close? Mechanical over rev from the planetary failure? I feel really dumb that I didn't catch the warning signs. Ah live and learn. Or in this case live and spend. Like $6 k worth
Doug
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66Satellite47

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dvw, do you use a a big low oil pressure light? I don't pay much attention to the gauge during the run, so I put one in my Satellite.
 

Hemirunner

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dvw, do you use a a big low oil pressure light? I don't pay much attention to the gauge during the run, so I put one in my Satellite.
I would probably just confuse it for the shift light! Lol. The good thing with EFI is a programable safety to kill ignition once the oil pressure drops below a specified setting.
 

dvw

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dvw, do you use a a big low oil pressure light? I don't pay much attention to the gauge during the run, so I put one in my Satellite.
I did in past cars. I've learned to keep an eye on the gauge. Pressure was good with the top bulb on in staging. Broke right at the hit.
Doug
 

66Satellite47

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I broke my 426W motor at Byron 5K labor day race 1976. Lost 1st round, car ran slow, quit 2 times on the return road the stalled, locked the back tires dragging gravel. Pulled it back to the pit pulled the valve cover, lifter had popped out, terrible burned oil smell. Towed home, pulled the motor, chiseled the #5 bearing off the crank. Walked the crank to the dumpster. Built my first 440. Many years later it dawned on me to put that Moroso big red idiot light alongside my tach. With my Satellite the red lite is attached to the shift light.
 
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PRHeads

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Doug,
Was the repair for the crack(s) between the intake/exhaust ports done this time around, or was that a previous repair?

Are more than one cylinder like that?

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Budnicks

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disclaimer;
Don't get what I'm about to say here as an insult,
it's far from it
I'm not dismissing the longevity or aspect of your build at all
It ran hard, it's one of the better running & better-looking cars on here


It's all & good to say 'it lasted X amount of passes'
sort of a badge or honor deal, I get it too
I hear it all the times
Great for you

Maybe refresh it,
change bearings & especially hardware, rod bolts,
even rings or even valves, retainers clips/locks, springs etc.
so you don't have catastrophic shit happen
(It still may grenade anyway even doing reg. mantanance)
more than every 470+ passes :poke: (Murphys Law)
'no matter what they look like'
it's cheap insurance in the long run
all that shit is under tremendous stress
why risk it ? - That is a rhetorical question, more of a statement
with no need to answer

I use to do it annually at a min. no matter how many runs
om my Pro-gas A/B/C-Altered or S/C 8.50-8.90 combos
or even S/E 7.90 combos, usually couldn't last a whole season
even in a 1800# car,
Hell the T/S combos 6.60's to 7.00's (stroker combos)
were every 5-8 passes usually (1 weekend)
if not between races or passes if need be
crazy me, maintenance minded
& I'm frugal as fuck too, especially when it comes to race prep
but it's the cost of racing, you want to go fast,
you have to pay the piper...

I never windowed a block
well not mine anyway,
I did grenade a KB in a burnout T/AD 1995 Sears Point
when I had just ran 5.97 @ 227 the pass before
everything looked good too, shit happens
I'm just glad it didn't happen during the pass...

good luck with the next one,
hope it goes deep into the 8's now too
 
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dvw

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Doug,
Was the repair for the crack(s) between the intake/exhaust ports done this time around, or was that a previous repair?

Are more than one cylinder like that?

View attachment 1207336 View attachment 1207337
This time around. The piston hit the head and compressed the quench side of the chamber. I pressure checked it to 40 psi, no leaks. The crack in between the seats was found during repair. The other head had a similar crack in #8. So it's been there awhile. Has never used any coolant. Tell me this isn't bad. And yes in answer to Budnicks statement. New pistons, pins, rods, crank, rings, bearings, valves, springs, locks, and oil pump. It has had recent Jesel belt, new bearings in the T&D rockers. Cam looks fine and was checked for straightness. Called Isky on the bushed lifters and they said keep running them. It's got Trend 7/16" x.165" tapered pushrods, they look like new. One sleeve, bored to 4.530", torque plate honed, line honed, decked, new lifter bushings, balanced, valve job, head resurface
Doug
 
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gregsdart

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Doug, if you get a chance, could you measure how thick the head is from where a lower headbolt seats to the deck surface? Mine were .868 inch also see if you can figure how thick the deck is by the large water passage on the end of the head? Mine are .250 thick. Not much!
 

dvw

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Next piece of the puzzle is done. Greg I'll measure the heads tonight.
Doug
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Fran Blacker

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I see a neat freak, he even masks his engine stand. I'm so envious of people that are like that. Don't have patients consistent enough. I go in streaks and it falls apart.
Do you use PPG enamel? Great work Doug.
 

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