Almost ready. Sent the driveshaft to the driveline shop to be shortened about 6inches . I also have a promod gearvendors on it.
Mike, my opinion, the chassis setup is the issue. A glide with a tall low gear may help?? But as others said you'd need a really fancy glide to hold up. May work, bet you'd still need a ton of chassis setup. The spring, shock, converter, tire, weight distribution combo is still the key with a 727. You sure could still be chasing your tail with a VERY expensive glide.
I now agree...no glide for me. I now have all the input I think I need to get my chassis set up right to launch the car off the transbrake. It consists of about everything....Strange Double Adjustable Front Shocks, Strange Double Adjustable Rear Shocks with 110lb springs, Wheelie Bar Wheels set at correct height, correct RPM chip in the transbrake, Rear and Front Tire Pressure. I have already lowered the rear of the car 2" to get it to sit level...It was actually higher in the rear by 2", not sitting level. But...as I have said, I now only have 12 runs on the car and have netted at 9.26 time slip leaving off idle at 1800 rpm with a crappy 1.34 60'. I am looking to go much closer to 9.00. With everything set up correctly where I can launch it off the transbrake at anywhere from 3500rpm to 5000rpm I may, or may not, hit my 9.00 target. The car/motor may, or may not, have it in her. Time will tell. Thanks for all the input
Mike, my bet is that 3500 on the brake gets you 1.25 or better 60' & 9.00 or better. Trick seems in the shock setting & maybe the tire pressure. Good luck Bill
a glide will handle 1000hp with 1/2 the cost of a 727. I switch mine out years ago. 1 shift less massive rotating weight all a plus.
A decent glide is not 1/2 the cost of a decent 727. If the car is over 3000lbs I have yet to see one that hasn't slowed the car down. A 727 can run the majority of stock components. The drum being the most costly upgrade. How much stock stuff is in that glide? The hidden costs that also adds up. New converter, driveshaft, trans cross member, shifter, trans mount all need to purchased as well. Doug
Went for a little cruise turned on overdrive, 80mph @ 3100. Between 65 and 75 it varied between 2600 and 3000. I’m thinking it’s because of my torque converter. It’s a 3500 stall , not sure on flash because I haven’t tried. I’ve only driven about 45 miles on new set up and need to fully weld spring perch’s to axle.
No need to use an adapter plate any longer. You can buy a JW bellhousing to go from BBM to PowerGlide. Tom
Well I finally got to to the track with my car after swapping in the powerglide. I lost 2 hundreths in the 60ft but identical 1/8 et and mph footbraking.I will try the trans brake next time out.
Only was able to make 1 run on Friday because of the amount of people. Checked plugs look ok, red lite 1st time with trans brake. Went straight , wasn’t trying for fast pass just wanted to make sure things are good for next time.
I agree! Somebody out there builds racing 727s and should be able to give you any 1st gear ratio. Yep, I'm hard-core too.....keep your MOPAR ALL MOPAR!
Does the JW Ultra Bell require the special glide case also? edit: sorry this was a reply to PROSTOCKTOM.
hey @dadsdart just curious what does you car run et & mph 60ft 660 1/8th & 1/4 mile what size tire diameter & width & what kind of gear are you running too ------------------------------------------------------ I think mainly the tire height & some as to width, larger longer rollout/better contact patch may be a bunch of the slower cars issues running out of gear way too fast, possibly way too much wheel-speed, to much tire spin & into 3rd gear way too fast, always pegging/banging off the limiter in the traps especially with the smaller/shorter tires with a 3 speed trans, not staying in the power-band In my personal experiences or case, especially not in 2nd gear long enough ----------------------------------------------------------- I had well over 1300hp NA before a dual 300+ shot of N2O the car would still run 7.00's off the juice used a plate kit under the carbs, for off the line, progressed into a spray-bar thru the manifold/later changed to a port nozzle kit directed at the intake valve all going thru a PG, way before we had all these killer aftermarket cases & didn't have many issues well not out of the norm for a racecar of that period from mid 80's to late 90's cooking fluid, was the worst, when hot lapping Mikes Transmissions out of Lancaster Ca. used to build my trans at 1st ---------------------------------------------------- I guarantee you my Clutch-flite had far more than double the $$ in it even before the clutch system or later Bruno-drive was added than any of my PG's ever did, converters were cheap for the Powerglides, most mine had a TH400 style converter/splined input shafts, those converters are not exactly cheap either but in comparison to the Torqueflites, back then was dirt cheap dollar to dollar comparison & they worked & held up, easily found (today may be a little different, much easier to find MoPar stuff) PG hardened Input (Turbo splined) & output/main shaft were a must change, steel clutch hub billet drums, better front pump, & added friction plate in clutch pack too, Kevlar band, a different 1st gear/aftermarket planetary's oe 1.69:1 to soft, 60ft like shit, still 1.10 or better, on good/marginal tracks the 1.80:1 or 1.98:1 gear sets biggest hit was like $850 but they were far better, sub 1.0 60ft consistantly grant you it was 1900hp, not 900-1100 especially with 15x33's vs the trusty ol' 14x32's, industry std. IMO the taller tire really made a big/huge difference staying in the power-band longer, shifting later more contact patch, more power can be used also back then, straight cut gears/gear sets, were coming on strong hardened gears too now they're the norm in a quality Powerglide The newer/thicker much stronger aftermarket cases & bell-housings are far superior to anything I ever ran... I had very little problems either... Best of 6.69 @ 217, before going to a can/Crower slipper-clutch, with Jeffco & Lenco stuff
