Pressure testing heater core?

[Triplegreen500]

So...it's getting chilly here in MD, but there's no winter salt on the roads yet so I'm still driving the Charger as much as I can.

But.

It's a FL car, and when I got it the heater core was simply unhooked. Not sure if it was "leak", or "Florida"...but I hesitate to fill it until I figure out if it has holes in it or not.

Any suggestions on the best way to cobble up a pressure test for it? I plan to test both the core, and the control valve...separately, so I'd love to have something that I can slip off the hose nipples and move to the other unit for a second test.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Maybe see if you can rig up something to adapt a radiator pressure tester (radiator cap neck & adapt it to fit a 3/4" or 5/8" hose). Attach it to one side of the heater core & use a rubber cork on the other side held in with duct tape??? OR....maybe attach a hose, put your thumb on the other side and blow?

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I use a valve stem in a heater hose, use a bike pump to control the pressure better.

 

[Triplegreen500]

I was thinking bike pump (have plenty) and a valve. I have a couple old bike tubes, I could cut a section out and zip tie it over one hose nipple I guess. Just want to figure out how to rig a gauge to the other nipple, so I can watch for pressure drop.

10psi should be enough?

I figure I'll air it up and let sit overnight, and check the gauge.

 

[6872n73]

I've used a cheap adjustable air regulator and cobble up some fittings to get to the 1/2"heater hose and T into the loop on both ends of the core. Then a ball valve on the inlet to check for pressure loss. My cap is 18 lbs so I checked to 25.

 

[Cranky]

I've used a cheap adjustable air regulator and cobble up some fittings to get to the 1/2"heater hose and T into the loop on both ends of the core. Then a ball valve on the inlet to check for pressure loss. My cap is 18 lbs so I checked to 25.

I've done similar but didn't go much over my cap pressure.....

 

[F4R/T]

Glen Ray also restores and repairs cores too! Fabulous work is all you will get from them!

 

[Triplegreen500]

Yeah, I'm really hoping to avoid pulling stuff out just yet....I know, it's a band-aid, but I'll save the "yank the dash" adventure for when I get the urge to get the factory a/c working again!

 

[F4R/T]

Good luck triple green!

 

[dadsbee]

I was thinking bike pump (have plenty) and a valve. I have a couple old bike tubes, I could cut a section out and zip tie it over one hose nipple I guess. Just want to figure out how to rig a gauge to the other nipple, so I can watch for pressure drop.

10psi should be enough?

I figure I'll air it up and let sit overnight, and check the gauge.

'tis how I did mine. Valve section from an old inner tube from a skinny tire 10 speed.

 

[Triplegreen500]

Yep, should work. Hadn't even thought about it until I started this thread and was thinking out loud, so to speak. We'll see!

 

[RussT Plymouths]

This has been my solution for many years. I connect one end to regulated air (15psi) and dunk the core in a bucket of water.

In the car you could adapt one end to an old R12 fitting and use an AC gauge set to check for leaks.

 

[MoparLeo]

How do you check to core when it is still in the dash ? See if water leaks onto the floor ?

 

[Triplegreen500]

I'm going to pressure test it with air, and a gauge. Pressurize to 10psi or so, leave it sit overnight, and see where the gauge is in the morning. My dilemma was only figuring out how to seal up / attach a schraeder valve, and a gauge port...didn't know if anyone here had any tips or ideas.

 

[33 IMP]

I was thinking bike pump (have plenty) and a valve. I have a couple old bike tubes, I could cut a section out and zip tie it over one hose nipple I guess. Just want to figure out how to rig a gauge to the other nipple, so I can watch for pressure drop.

10psi should be enough?

I figure I'll air it up and let sit overnight, and check the gauge.

That's exactly how I would do it, a bicycle tube and some clamps.