Price gouging OR fair price?

[VFilms]

After weeks of searching for answers about the part numbers and applications of the MOPAR Heater/AC controller, I've learned there are no definitive answers and that those who have the controller for sale, part# 2587564, believe they are holding gold in their hands. I understand the scarcity of certain parts allow for a premium price, but I thought this was supposed to be a 'hobby', not a cutthroat business. I have seen that specific part# on the interweb for $350. Of course, that's the number I need. Or is it?
So here's what I've found and here are my questions - photos included.

Mopar AC/Heater Vacuum Switch pt# 2587564 replaces and is the same as #2096084 for 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967 Models: it is the 5 button a/c and heater vacuum switch for 1960 1961 Plymouth, 1965 Plymouth Fury, 1966 1967 most Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge vehicles, Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Belvedere, Coronet, Satellite, Charger, GTX, R/T, Polara, Monoco, Imperial.

I've also found these part numbers which are supposed to supersede the #2587564… pt# 2096084 seems to be the most common and the first number to supersede the #2587564. Others are…

3502126
2587564
1995501
3431020
3895790
2820487
3895033
3431017

and this… Part Number: 2587564 [supercedes 2096084] Years: 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968

and this… Plymouth 1968-74 New MoPAR A/C Heater Vacuum Switch 3502126 repl 3431020. If you're not totally confused by now this may do it. #3502126 that fits '68 to '74 supersedes #2587564 which fits '60 to '67.
I've also looked at '66/'67 wiring diagrams and '68/74' wiring diagrams and noticed the wiring for these switches are pretty much the same. BUT look at the 3 pin connectors (see the photos). On the #2587564 the 2 pin is connected (like a jumper) where on all the other switches the 2 pins are separated.
Therefore, here is the question. Are these switches interchangeable? If so, you will be able to replace your '66/'67 switch for a fraction of the cost. The later '68 to '74 switch can be had for $50 not $400 for the #2587564.
Any definitive information about these switches would be greatly appreciated. I'm loosing a lot of sleep thinking about this.

 

[bee71]

Try here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171626737042?item=171626737042&rmvSB=true

 

[ZR9B]

or here ...not sure of the quality and I didn't read your entire post. $53

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=42549

 

[barnfind]

You can send these guys an email hope that helps.

http://www.classicautoair.com/Mopar_Air_Conditioning_Mopar_AC.html

 

[Moparsmitty]

Fair or not, the early switches are very rare and nobody is making reproductions as far as I know. It's the same problem with other plastic parts like taillight lenses etc. I've heard of guys modifying the later heater switches to work in earlier cars. Sorry I don't have the details, but maybe somebody on the board has done this and will chime in.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I understand your dilema. It has taken hours online to find a heater resister for an 1982 Dodge truck at a reasonable price. Finally found a substitute at O'Riley's. Even the fact that most vacuum control units look the same and have the right number of controls line routings change. I wish you the best of luck in your search.

 

[Coronet 14]

The 71 to 72 a/c heater vacuum electric switch has a plastic block with a screen and the screen has passage ways. When the lever is moved it moves the block inside the switch and blocks off the vacuum passages when not needed. When the switch is off it works the same as in ac mode. As the fresh door is closed. The 71 to 72 switches are not interchangeable with other year switches of the same design because the block inside are different. However the blocks are interchangeable just take the switches apart and switch them out

 

[barnfind]

Found a nice write up on the a body site

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=261388

 

[451Mopar]

The 71 to 72 a/c heater vacuum electric switch has a plastic block with a screen and the screen has passage ways. When the lever is moved it moves the block inside the switch and blocks off the vacuum passages when not needed. When the switch is off it works the same as in ac mode. As the fresh door is closed. The 71 to 72 switches are not interchangeable with other year switches of the same design because the block inside are different. However the blocks are interchangeable just take the switches apart and switch them out

That is what I did on my '71 Charger. I got the block out of the original and carefully seperated a simular one from the junk yard, swapped the vacuum block inside and glued it back together. works great.

 

[Jeremiah]

Go ahead and use the 68-74 style. The only real difference between it and the 60-67 is the A/C compressor is powered when the defrost selector is pressed. I went through the same thing with our 1966 Coronet 500 convertible. If you want to know more PM me.

 

[lewtot184]

i've got this one that i'm not using. it's NOS.

 

[VFilms]

I found this on the web and is very insightful. I think it has answered my question regarding the "odd pin" - http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Air/servos.htm

Thanks to all for the help.

 

[Durandal25]

....Sir, I went through the same exact thing........in the end I was able to use either one due to the slight modification to the prongs on the back of the switch with a jumper. I have a 67 Dodge coronet with AC

 

[YY1]

Suspense is killing me.

What mod to the connectors?

 

[VFilms]

Suspense is killing me.

What mod to the connectors?

If you look at the pics I put up showing the pins in question, those are the pins we are talking about. I have figured out that on the 66/67 switch the pins act as nothing more than a jumper. Either side is a feed and the other side has no actual wires go to/from it. On the 68/74 that pin is split. One side feeds the controler and the other pin - I believe, looking at the wiring diagram - feeds the fan switch and supply's power to the fan when the key is turned on so the fan comes on automatically. I have purchased a 68 controller and plan to disect it and compare it to the 66/67 switch and answer this question. My beiief is you will be able to sub the 68 controller for the 66/67 by simply leaving one pin disconnected and protected with shrink wrap. PLEASE DO NOT DO THAT ON MY SUGGESTION. I DO NOT WANT TO BE RESPONSIBLE FOR AN ELECTRICAL FIRE IN YOUR CAR. These are simply my thoughts on this subject and I'll report what I find when I disect the 68 switch.

 

[Dklein]

Has anyone found a solution yet? I need a switch like the one shown here. Mine has been rebuilt once and has failed again. Is there a way to make the newer switches work properly on a 67 dodge?

 

[VFilms]

Has anyone found a solution yet? I need a switch like the one shown here. Mine has been rebuilt once and has failed again. Is there a way to make the newer switches work properly on a 67 dodge?

View attachment 357060

Unfortunately, I have not found a solution. I have dissected a 68 switch and they are different from 66, 67. There is a guy in Texas who rebuilds them. He does a good job and is reasonable. This is his contact info, hope it helps ANTHONY POWELL <[email protected]>

 

[moparnation74]

Unfortunately, I have not found a solution. I have dissected a 68 switch and they are different from 66, 67. There is a guy in Texas who rebuilds them. He does a good job and is reasonable. This is his contact info, hope it helps ANTHONY POWELL <[email protected]>

If he does a good job and stands behind his work, why not go that route? Versus buying a 40yr plus NOS part for 300...Unfortunately, the NOS market is what it is....the guys who have these parts are financially secure and can sit on these parts forever, while asking for the moon on those parts.....

 

[mmissile]

I don't understand why people who stored and paid for parts that are 40-60 years-old....shouldn't reap the rewards. There's a bunch to having old stuff stored for that long. Especially when ya don't need it for yourself.

 

[Budnicks]

$350 for a $50 part is gouging...
I could see double or triple the perceived cost,
but not 7 times the cost...
No big deal making a good profit, but there's a fine line,
between reality & thievery...
I know you don't have to buy it,
it just make some people look really bad...
GREED

NOS or not, stored for 40+ years or not...
Reality is what it is...

The market will bare the price, to each their own, do what you need to,
BUT; not many even if needed extremely badly will sell ever for $350...
I personally don't think it's good for anyone
having these inflated pricing gougers/parts hoarders-storers out there...
I just don't ever deal with them types,
I'd modify something before I'll pay ransom for some
"40+ year old NOS or used worn part", some dude has on the shelf
& stored or couldn't sell for 40+ years...

My $0.02 cents