• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Proper jacking 69RR - help me not injur myself please (or my car)

GearAddict

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:31 PM
Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
756
Reaction score
170
Location
Tampa, FL
I am going to be doing the rear suspension this weekend and the front next week.

When replacing rear springs, I was thinking 2 stands (3 Ton 4 leg is what I have) under the rear framerail close to where the spring hangers are mounted and some 8x8 blocks just in case. I'll use my floor jack under the axle tube of the side I'm working on to keep in in place when I drop the springs. tire chucks as well


For the front, I would normally take the same approach, 2 stands on framerail that runns parrallel to firewall, wood blocks, tire chucks, however, I noticed the last time I jacked the car up this way, you could see that the front end was being stressed as the fender to door body gap opened about 1/8" at the top on both sides until I lowered the car back down onto it's tires...is this much play normal? should I be concerned about the stresses I'm putting on the frame using jack stands? Would getting it up on 4 level stands help?

I don't want to snap the frame and then kill myself...that would suck mightily.
 
If you don't have frame connectors or torque boxes, that is probably normal. You should see how much a convertible door gap moves when it is put on a hoist. I never open a door on these old car once they are lifted either. One thing I don't like to see is when just one corner of a car is picked up. This seems to cause some twisting.
 
Sounds like you have the right idea with using your jack stands but I wouldn't use any blocks with them. What I mean is don't place your stands on blocks or use blocks on top of a stand. For added safety I'll throw the wheels that I take off, under the middle of the car.
 
I'll just add that the stands need to be on a level concrete surface if possible.
 
If you don't have frame connectors or torque boxes, that is probably normal. You should see how much a convertible door gap moves when it is put on a hoist. I never open a door on these old car once they are lifted either. One thing I don't like to see is when just one corner of a car is picked up. This seems to cause some twisting.

Thanks, that makes me feel a little better.

- - - Updated - - -

Sounds like you have the right idea with using your jack stands but I wouldn't use any blocks with them. What I mean is don't place your stands on blocks or use blocks on top of a stand. For added safety I'll throw the wheels that I take off, under the middle of the car.

Yeah, the blocks were for safety in addition th the jack stands, not under them but I like your idea of throwing the wheels under as well.

- - - Updated - - -

I'll just add that the stands need to be on a level concrete surface if possible.

Check. I have made that mistake before, won't ever do it again.
 
How bad of shape is this car in? Based on your original post, if you're that unsure of how to lift it, you shouldn't be attempting it in the first place. Killing yourself is a real concern in this case. If you have no clue what you are doing, hire somebody that does. It may save your life.
 
I recently lifted my 67 GTX onto four matching jack stands..started with floor jack under the differential...then two stands under each side frame rail...moved to the front,,under center cross member with floor jack..then two jack stands on front frame rails..my thinking,,,no side twisting...I agree,,,no opening doors,,did it twice,,,they were tight when up...but they were also tight when on a four point commercial lift.
 
How bad of shape is this car in? Based on your original post, if you're that unsure of how to lift it, you shouldn't be attempting it in the first place. Killing yourself is a real concern in this case. If you have no clue what you are doing, hire somebody that does. It may save your life.

Ok, I should say that two things came off wrong in my post... I have jacked up and worked under cars at least 50-100 times in my life (who counts) and never feared doing it...but I was also young...and 2 My concern is really more over the car than me. I have never worked on a mopar with uni-body construction. I have done plenty of work on 60's GM cars and would never have thought twice about the front clip falling off because I used the wrong jacking points. On my road runner, it seems the front end is under a considerable amount of stress when I jack the car up this way as can be seen in the gap that develops at the seem between the door and cowl/front fender when it's in the air....

My safety comes into play if I should be concerned with that snapping because I was stupid enough to doit like it was my chevelle, without asking first.

I have also read some horror stories here on jack stands failing and all the stupid stuff we did when we were younger.

- - - Updated - - -

I recently lifted my 67 GTX onto four matching jack stands..started with floor jack under the differential...then two stands under each side frame rail...moved to the front,,under center cross member with floor jack..then two jack stands on front frame rails..my thinking,,,no side twisting...I agree,,,no opening doors,,did it twice,,,they were tight when up...but they were also tight when on a four point commercial lift.

Thanks GTX, this is helpful... Helps to know that this is normal and not a sign of the apocalypse (front end sheering off at the firewall).
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top