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QA1 Stocker Star single adjustable rear shocks

fourgearsavoy

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Picked up a pair of QA1 shocks for the rear of the Savoy. I was wondering where I should start with a basic setting for general street use. Should I start low and go up or just put them in the middle and try that. My old shocks were Rancho XL9000 adjustables and I set them on 9 for the track and 3 for the street.
Thanks

Gus

rear savoy.jpg
 
I have QA1 double adjustable on the rear and single adjustable on the front of my car, but it is a drag only ladder bar car. I don't recall where they are currently set, but I know when I first put them on, I set them in the middle of the recommended setting and made adjustments from there. I don't think I had to make to many adjustments before they were set where I needed them to be.

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Picked up a pair of QA1 shocks for the rear of the Savoy. I was wondering where I should start with a basic setting for general street use. Should I start low and go up or just put them in the middle and try that. My old shocks were Rancho XL9000 adjustables and I set them on 9 for the track and 3 for the street.
Thanks

Gus

View attachment 1418766
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Curious as to what your rear leafs are now and how much HP and converter are you throwing at it. That will determine a lot of the amount of rear separation.
 
I had single adjustable QA1s front and rear on my 71 Cuda. Also had CalTracs. At the track it liked full loose on the front and middle setting on the rear. I used those settings on the street too.
 
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Curious as to what your rear leafs are now and how much HP and converter are you throwing at it. That will determine a lot of the amount of rear separation.
I am running the 455,456 SS springs 3800# B-body . This is a stick car with a 493 wedge with Indy EZ's. Never had it on the pump but the various calculators with my combo put the engine around 570 HP. My car hits the tire pretty hard even with the plate pressure set at 800#
I have changed over to a non-adjustable PP for the street though as I only make a few passes a year anymore.
 
Based on your combo you’re probably pretty close to a good starting point. If you’re getting lots of separation then start tightening things up. Is there a pinion snubber under there? Spring perches need to be boxed in or they will flatten out and I’d suggest 5 degrees negative pinion angle. Good luck with it.
 
I am running the 455,456 SS springs 3800# B-body . This is a stick car with a 493 wedge with Indy EZ's. Never had it on the pump but the various calculators with my combo put the engine around 570 HP. My car hits the tire pretty hard even with the plate pressure set at 800#
I have changed over to a non-adjustable PP for the street though as I only make a few passes a year anymore.
I’m curious about your clutch set up.
Did the clutch have enough pressure at 800#, or did you have centrifugal assist?
 
I’m curious about your clutch set up.
Did the clutch have enough pressure at 800#, or did you have centrifugal assist?
I had an old Hays MarkXII adjustable unit with centrifugal fingers from Tim Hyatt . He helped me with the parts and I built it myself. The stock plate had 1200# base and Tim advised me to set it up with 800# base and use his billet levers.
I was driving through it with the 800 base with 15 grams of CW so I played with it for a season but I wasn't able to put enough track time in to get the adjustments right.
I quit racing it about 4 years ago and put it on the street with a CF plate and a Mcleod dual friction disc and street Hemi box.
I just got a smokin deal on these shocks so I thought I would give them a shot.
Gus
 
Back when I had Cal-Tracs on the car and Pro-Comp shocks for a Durango and some old worn out K-Mart shocks on the front

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