Radiator to engine fitment...

[rolling_Thunder]

So I am getting some things in motion to get my Polara heart transplant done - and I am questioning my K-member... it's a factory 64 K member but I am throwing in a 440 with an 8-71 on it... I know forward real-state is limited -- anyone done it?

I have thought bout going with a later K member to move the engine back ~2" - does that swap change the steering column length, torsion bars, etc? I know at least oil pan fitment is way easier.

I don't have a problem keeping the '64 stuff - just not sure it it'll work with the supercharger. Also - anyone have specifics on where to modify the '64K member to clear a later style oil pan?

 

[bearman]

Thunder go to racers hang out. DVW can show you pics of k member cut out. Also may want to talk with HEMI can help in the blower area. Both of them are very helpful.

 

[Glenwood]

I don't believe the steering box or torsion bars are affected, only the motor mounts are relocated. Here's a thread when I was looking at this a few years ago.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/68-k-frame-in-a-64.124181/

@HEMI-ITIS might have some info on the blower pulley spacing that he runs in his 63, but he might be using a motor plate.

 

[Mr Belvedere]

I don't believe the steering box or torsion bars are affected, only the motor mounts are relocated. Here's a thread when I was looking at this a few years ago.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/68-k-frame-in-a-64.124181/

@HEMI-ITIS might have some info on the blower pulley spacing that he runs in his 63, but he might be using a motor plate.

Engine mounts are moved back about 1-3/4" and will need to modify tranny crossmember mount and shorten driveshaft. Transmission(727) fit will be tight to the tunnel and engine might be tilted a bit. I'd suggest mounting K as far forward as bolts will allow for a little more room. YMMV depending on tolerances or in my case QA1 K. I had to add shims to the rear to get a little more pinion angle. Thinner or cut down rubber insulators can help too if you have room/clearance to drop the front of the motor a bit.

You'll see what needs to be done as you go along if you don't mind the work.

 

[dvw]

Easiest is to mount the radiator in front of the core support. Mount the fan inside the core support. However now you lose the hood latch and support. It'll require hood pins. The tunnel is very tight. Moving the engine back gets even tighter. Making the tunnel larger is an option. The fire wall can be pushed back fairly easy. A bottle jack against the K frame with a a 2x4 across it. The K frame will still fit the pan if you use a later pan. Opening the K frame is great for maintenance and pan removal. @HEMI-ITIS would be the guy since he already successfully runs a blown Hemi 63 on the street.
Doug

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

When I 1st dropped in the big block with the milodon oil pan,I had to raise the engine so the centerlink would not touch the front of the cross tube in the oil pan.I ran it that way for almost 20 years. Fast forward,now I have a Racepak and I'm seeing lean at the hit with the event lasting almost a second.More on this later.
A few years ago my good friend was to help me freshen my engine,so I brought the car over to yank the hemi out. Told him of my intentions to bring the car to s chassis shop to install "J" bars.Leo said why bring the car there,,,,I can do zeees.
After much conversation,sitting around the car with a bottle of 1800,Leo came up with the battle plan after measuring everything up.I had raised the front of the engine up to 8* nose up years back for clearance.This caused the fuel to uncover 4 jets effecting the leave and 60ft. Funny part,I had to leave to work sometimes a few hours at a time. One day I come back to the shop and he moved the engine down to 1* nose up and set back a little over 2 inches!!!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Before the engine setback there was one inch of room between the bottom blower pulley and the radiator.No room for puller fan or fans,they had to be mounted between the rad support and grille............................Pushers.
You can see from the pictures how lowering the engine to 1* nose up took the spacer out from under the engine plate and then notched the engine plate.Hard to show the engine set back but had to REdo a few header tubes!

 

[rolling_Thunder]

Thanks for all the into and pictures guys - I assume running manual steering will allow me to barely squeeze the blower pulley on the crank - the transmission is getting swapped to a 4-speed so I will be getting a new driveshaft regardless - I will most likely try keeping the 64 K member and see how it goes - if it was a "no way in hell will that work" thing I just wanted to know now before I am waist deep into it.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Will there be a cage in this project??

 

[rolling_Thunder]

Will there be a cage in this project??

Nope - Plan on doing some frame connectors and some minor body strengthening but no cage.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

You can still do a "J" bar in the front.I did mine in the wheel well.You can weld to the firewall and tag the shock towers.I removed my shock towers for elephant clearance.

 

[Dan64]

On my 64' Polara I cut the core support form inner frame to inner frame ,about 30" wide and reusing the top section of the original core support and a new lower cross brace from us car tool i rebuilt the core support. The corners are 1 1/2" x 3/16" angle with 15"x 3 1/2" pieces of 16 gauge on both sides. The lower cross brace was dropped 3/4" to let the radiator go down the same amount. This was done because now the radiator cap wants to sit right under the hood brace and needs the extra height. I'm still using the stock hood latch set up as it clears everything... barely. This was all done because i switched to a cold case 26" radiator with dual Derale fans and a CVF Wraptor serpinetine belt set up that eats up even more room. By the time i was done cutting up the stock core support there wouldn't have been much left of it. Not sure about other b bodies but on a 64 Polara the radiator sits higher than the core support so you can't just sink the radiator into it by "picture frame" cutting the support. I oped to use a RMS Alterkation front end and didn't want to mess with the engine mount location not knowing what other problems pushing the engine back would cause, Headers, rack & pinion, trans tunnel e.c.t.