Radio and turn signals cut on/off during acceleration?

[mrmolding]

So before rip apart the steering wheel to check turn signal switch, I was wondering if it makes any sense that today during a shakedown for toe in alignment/steering wheel centering, I’d been driving for about 20 minutes, and came to a stop. Put on the turn signal and the signal and radio went dark. The car was still running so I planned my route back home without signals. Started going again and the radio came back on and so did turn signals. I got to another light and the radio went out again and no signals. As soon as I started accelerating, the radio and turn signals worked again — I tested during driving.
Made it home with no other issues.
I’ve been having other radio on off gremlins but thought I’d gotten it fixed with a new horn relay.
Am I still chasing a grounding issue or is this a voltage regulator or alternator? I have a new power master 95 and and a newish repro voltage regulator. I checked and replaced fuse with a nos sfe 20 but the original fuse tested ok.
Any help is welcomed and thanks in advance!

 

[Black_Sheep]

Sounds like a grounding issue, bad body ground if I had to guess…

 

[kiwigtx]

Bad ground or a loose connection on the back of the fuse box.

It may also be a shonky connector behind the dash.....you really just have to work through all connections.

Start at the radio and work back to the fuse box.

 

[mrmolding]

Thanks! I realized after I posted this that my gauges went out as well. They slowly went to the left. So more than two fused circuits went out. Once I started to accelerate everything turned back on! I’ll keep looking! Thanks everyone!

 

[blue69runner]

May need to check connections at the bulkhead connector also. Is the connector to the dashboard plug tight also.

 

[mrmolding]

May need to check connections at the bulkhead connector also. Is the connector to the dashboard plug tight also.

Thanks! I’ll look at that too. It’s all new harnesses and I’ve been through everything a few times. I’ll look again!

 

[kiwigtx]

Thanks! I’ll look at that too. It’s all new harnesses and I’ve been through everything a few times. I’ll look again!

I assume it is the correct harness.


Certainly sounds like a power supply issue - fuse block or bulkhead connectors.

 

[mrmolding]

I assume it is the correct harness.


Certainly sounds like a power supply issue - fuse block or bulkhead connectors.

I’m wondering if something is wrong with the harness??? It’s the m&h rally oil gauge harness for 1970.
Would love someone to say possibly a bad alternator or voltage regulator! Just so strange that it cut out but the engine kept going. The car is so close to being completely updated that I could literally make it my daily driver! Ugh! Thanks again!

 

[mrmolding]

I did put in a charge wire and bolted the the ammeter wires together, taped it up and put in a voltmeter.
I have a piggyback on the radio fuse for the stereo, tach, and voltmeter. Too many on same fuse? Such thing as a sub-fuse panel? The accessory fuse is empty like on the original harness with the car. Maybe a more robust harness? Hmm…

 

[kiwigtx]

Would love someone to say possibly a bad alternator or voltage regulator!

I'm just relieved that nobody has told you to reset your modem or clear the cookies.

A bad harness is entirely possible, but less likely compared to a bad connection - as in check that the harness plugs are 'home' fully, and all fuse connections are tight etc.

It will end up being something so stupid, that you'll kick yourself when you find the problem.

 

[kiwigtx]

I did put in a charge wire and bolted the the ammeter wires together, taped it up and put in a voltmeter.
I have a piggyback on the radio fuse for the stereo, tach, and voltmeter. Too many on same fuse? Such thing as a sub-fuse panel? The accessory fuse is empty like on the original harness with the car. Maybe a more robust harness? Hmm…

A stereo piggy-backed would only cause issues if you were running a big amplifier also from the same supply without it's own separate fuse - typically a 60 Amp or bigger depending upon your amplifier.

 

[mrmolding]

I'm just relieved that nobody has told you to reset your modem or clear the cookies.

A bad harness is entirely possible, but less likely compared to a bad connection - as in check that the harness plugs are 'home' fully, and all fuse connections are tight etc.

It will end up being something so stupid, that you'll kick yourself when you find the problem.

Thanks! I did find something with the stereo connector and fixed that. Car ran great for two weeks! Seems to be all or nothing as I get closer. So the more I fix small issues the bigger the problem gets when it happens. Must be getting closer.
I wish it was my web browser!!!
Thanks again!

 

[mrmolding]

Just stock amp in aftermarket radio. Nothing too powerful. Thanks!

 

[blue69runner]

Not getting a good connection or a bad ground like stated. I have the same maker of the new harness also. Mine was acting up also and found that clutch over center spring was moving my wires and corrected that and all is well now. You are going to find it something simple in the end. Best of luck with it and know you will figure it all out.

 

[mrmolding]

Not getting a good connection or a bad ground like stated. I have the same maker of the new harness also. Mine was acting up also and found that clutch over center spring was moving my wires and corrected that and all is well now. You are going to find it something simple in the end. Best of luck with it and know you will figure it all out.

Thanks! I thought I’d solved the mysteries of the universe when I realized there’s a more stiff horn switch for horn pads! Using that one prevented the horn from going off over bumps and hood closes. But only the weaker horn switch is reproduced. Had to find a decent used one. Hopefully I’ll get this soon!

 

[mrmolding]

So again thanks to everyone! I did a few things:
1. Made sure all connections were tight at firewall connectors/plugs.
2. Pulled all accessories in fuse box and crimped connectors to be tighter and reinstalled.
3. Turned on car and moved all ground wires in engine bay and nothing hesitated.
4. Finally, and I think this might have been it, the bottom two wires/plugs connected to the starter relay prongs were a bit wobbly. So I tightened up by compressing connector and reconnected them. I think one is ignition and the other is ground?

Anyway, fired it up and drove for about and hour with no issues.

Fingers crossed and thanks again everyone for where to look!

 

[blue69runner]

Nothing like chasing the rat down a hole. So many connections to check and I am with you on trying to find a problem in the wiring. I also have a new harness and will say we do the best we can. Then end up with some little problem we have to check almost everything. Hope it will not give you any more trouble. Good luck.

 

[mrmolding]

Nothing like chasing the rat down a hole. So many connections to check and I am with you on trying to find a problem in the wiring. I also have a new harness and will say we do the best we can. Then end up with some little problem we have to check almost everything. Hope it will not give you any more trouble. Good luck.

Yes and thanks! Over two years I’ve replaced all harnesses with stock replacements from m&h. Nothing worse than your 50th test drive and something fails!

 

[blue69runner]

For sure!!!!!!!