Good results...i took the easy way and got myself a repo kit. Does look as original but a waste of money seeing you guys busy. Maybe a tip for some: After all the restoration work, incl. painting you could improve on grounding. Normally this goes through the mounting screws, the aluminium body of the instrument cluster is the ground for all components. Run a separate ground wire from the back of the tachometer/clock to the chassis on the left side of the dash. I hooked it up on one the ground stud of the tachometer. Near the park brake lever is a bolt behind the trim which could be used to connect to make sure you always have good ground for the cluster.
Mike- Would you mind commenting on the difficulty of installing the quartz kit:https://clocks4cars.auctivacommerce.com/Product.aspx?ProductId=4108022. FYI- I have a 69 Charger that has an original dash and many of the gauges are NOT working and I am planning the job through this thread and your experience! Thank you!
It looks as though you have a tic-toc-tach. Is that correct? The replacement I did was on a tic-toc-tach, which isn't much different than doing a clock with no tach. I also installed one on my friends 1967 Vette. In both cases the jobs went smoothly, and if memory serves me the jobs (not including removing and replacing the clocks from the cars) took less than two hours. The instructions were well written. If your gas gage is not working, there is a grounding strap that bypasses the rubber tubing between the the gas tank pickup/sending unit and the metal gas supply line that often goes bad. I also refaced all the gages in my rally dash myself, and I am satisfied with that job also.
I think this is a great addition to this thread, as it gives very detailed instruction on how to remove cluster to begin your resto.. I know I found it to be a great help as I begin mine. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,37999.msg1647460.html#msg1647460
Here I go ... man I'm hoping this goes well. Pulling gauges before the car goes into storage, be ready for the spring. Don't know about getting that pad out.
Thanks for posting pictures, I'm not brave enough to pull it yet, plus been having too much fun just driving it! I'd love to keep in touch with your progress through this forum or direct!
Sure , I'm nervous myself. Some great info about removing and rebuilding at that link above, when your ready. Winter coming here so I have months to get it done, once I have it out. I'll get back to you off forum.
Used a scribe to run through each line of dash pieces to get old paint someone sprayed on it. Washed it really good and then painted with the SEM landau black as suggested. Turned out pretty good as did the console. Should have closer pictures. Painted the chrome center section on console black then quickly wiped off the top chrome, so just the lower ribs remained black. Then painted the dash trim the argent I used on handles and dash trim. Know it's suppose to be chrome but I like the silver. Will be doing speedo and gauges bezel the same, once it's out. Like to know what you use to paint the letters ( lights, wiper, etc.). I've tried a couple of paint pens and they made a mess. I even tried to paint it while the piece was upside down, no good.
I use a white paint pen with a CHISEL TIP. When you push in the tip to open the valve and let paint flow, there is too much paint in /on the tip. I dab the tip on a napkin or paper towel to remove the excess. Dab the letters lightly and repeat if necessary. I do not paint the entire letter with one dab. Usually 2 or 3 are required for each letter. Brand new pens have the best tips, but if the tip becomes a little "fuzzy" you can trim it with a razor blade or Exacto knife. The pen I used was made by Testors. I am not saying they are better than others, just letting you know. Also sometimes I use one of those round lamp and magnifying glass lights.
Mike that looks really nice! I used a Sharpie brand oil-based marker like this one: SHARPIE MED WHT OB PAINT MARKER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_d4eVDbCJJ3NNZ I agree to make sure the tip is reasonably dry and dab, don’t ‘draw’ the letters. I let my daughter do it, she has a steadier hand than mine.
Ive followed this thread, and it encouraged me to do the plastic work myself, and it looks great!! thanks for the info guys,...now, i did try to tackle the switches, and the headlight switch popped open, and the parts went all over...who has a diagram or picture of how it goes back together??
Great thread! Glad I found it. I’m thinking this one is beyond restoring. but I’m looking at using a lot of the tips in here to at least make it look presentable.
Hemirunner, I am confused as to what I am looking at. What is the rectangular thing under your thumb? A bezel for gauges? Is the original bezel cut out behind it? Either being an optimist or an idiot, I saw a new type of "chrome" spray paint at the hardware store, and bought one. I tried it out on a pebble finish hockey stock that needed refinishing, with the thought that if the spray paint didn't work out well, I could always repaint the trim with the Molotow paint stick. First photo - The test piece. Second - As I always do, I sprayed the entire piece with SEM Landau Black. Third - I cut a mask out of thin poster board, using the outer edge of the test piece as a pattern. Fourth - The mask on the piece. Fifth - There was some bleeding around the mask. I took a small paint brush, sprayed Landau Black on a paper plate, and dabbing the brush in the paint, painted over the bleed through. Sixth - After paint brush fix up. Seventh and Eighth - Comparison with Molotow Chrome on a refurbished bezel. Ninth - The paint. In conclusion, in my eye the spray paint, while not as shiny as the Molotow, is the best "chrome" spray paint I have seen. It is not as flat as other "chrome" spray paints I have tested. It has a bit of reflectivity, as shown in photo five, where you can see the pebble finish reflected if you look at the corner of the piece in the upper right. There are some jobs where this spray might work well. You can't cover a large, flat area with the Molotow pen because the strokes made while using it will show. Obviously you all know that spray is smooth. I welcome your comments and questions.
