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Re-installing torsion bars into lower control arm

Dean Prevolos

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I have the engine out of my car and removed the front end to rebuild. I have now re-installed the front end and the lead end of the torsion bar won't line up exactly with the pattern on the lower control arm receiver. I have the specific torsion bar tool that clamps onto the torsion bar to install. I know that the torsion bars each have their unique side ( Right and left) position on the car, so I left them in the frame so I could just re-install with new boots.

I bolted in the front end in yesterday (with a freind helping me) and fastened the shocks and upper control arms. I also put the front tires on. When I went to re-install the torsion bars, they won't line up exactly with the position of lower control arm receiver. I put a jack under the lower control arm to manipulate to see if it would make any difference but it didn't.

I will remove the front tires today and see if that makes a difference. But I don't think the geometry of the lower control receiver will change its position with the wheels off.

Any suggestions?
 
You need to remove the rubber bump stops to allow the lca's to drop all the way down if you haven't done that already. No special tools are necessary to install the bars.
 
You need to remove the rubber bump stops to allow the lca's to drop all the way down if you haven't done that already. No special tools are necessary to install the bars.
I'll take a look at that this morning, thanks.
 
That tool is to remove torrison bars, no special tool necessary to install. Make sure your adjusters are backed off and have no tension on the cam.
 
The ends needed to have a lot of grease on them inside the sockets or else they will make annoying clunking noises for years.
 
IF you are using rubber bushings, then the lower control arm shafts need to be loose, so you can turn the socket all the way down. When the car is at ride height, then tighten the shafts.
 
IF you are using rubber bushings, then the lower control arm shafts need to be loose, so you can turn the socket all the way down. When the car is at ride height, then tighten the shafts.
Yes indeed. Same with upper control arm bolts.
 
The wheels are always the last thing, they just get in the way.
 
Thanks for all of the comments. I guess I have a lot to do to get my torsion bars in. I will start over and I'm sure I will get the right results. Thank you all.
 
Well I didn't have to do much. I loosened the bolt on the lower contriol arm, turn down the adjuster all the way and was able to turn the lower control arm position to line up with the torsion bar. Torsion bar slid right in. I tapped the torsion bar in securely and tighten the bolt on each torsion bar. Thanks for all the comments.
 
Not so fast there, Deano.... did you clock the bar with the lower arm as far down as possible, with the shock and upper control arm bumper removed ?
 
Not so fast there, Deano.... did you clock the bar with the lower arm as far down as possible, with the shock and upper control arm bumper removed ?
I clocked it down without removing the shock tower or the upper control arm.
 
I left the bumper stop in place, never touch it.
You might find when you try to set the ride height, the adjuster runs out of travel before the car is raised off the bumpstops. The torsion bars need to go in when the LCA is at full hang, so there is a small amount of "tension" on the bar when you first start winding in the adjuster.
The way you've done it, you'll be winding in the adjuster halfway before any tension gets on the bar.
 
You might find when you try to set the ride height, the adjuster runs out of travel before the car is raised off the bumpstops. The torsion bars need to go in when the LCA is at full hang, so there is a small amount of "tension" on the bar when you first start winding in the adjuster.
The way you've done it, you'll be winding in the adjuster halfway before any tension gets on the bar.
Thank you for your input.
 
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