Rear main seal

[Huicho417]

Not sure it’s the rms leaking yet. In the case that it is. Is it possible to replace it with the engine and trans stick in the car? The car is a 1967 coronet with 318 and 727 torqueflite. Should be the two piece seal. My thought was to drain the engine oil, remove the pan, oil pump and rear cap.

 

[Potts]

I changed mine several times with engine and trans still in the car. Just had to basically loosen a motor mount and jack up engine to get at pan bolts.
Mine still leaks, but was able to replace it in the car.
Hope you have better luck.

 

[Huicho417]

Thanks for the prompt response. I previously changed the oil pan gasket and don’t think I had any issues with access to the bolts. How did you remove and install the air of the seal that goes against crank and block?

 

[Potts]

Yes. The shop I brought it to swiped out the upper seal too, and chased it with the replacement.
I heard of a trick, remove rear cap, place a cotter pin in the crank oil control hole and rotate it to swipe out the upper portion. We didn't need to do that, in my case, but it's good to keep in mind.
We replaced with the Mancini Vitton Rubber, and also the billet cap.
Lots of threads on here about big block rear main seal issues and where to use Sealant too.
Good luck.

 

[Huicho417]

Thanks again.

 

[tonysrt]

The 318 seal is a little different then the above who replaced the seal on a B engine with the billet cap. The LA engine has ears on the upper part of the seal that goes into the block. I'm not sure if you can use the B engine seal in an LA engine without those ears, which also prevents it from moving.

 

[dvw]

Before you rip it apart. If its been rebuilt. There was a bad batch of cam plugs. We had an entire box of 10 that were all bad. They have a small hole and leak.
Doug

 

[Mojoe9955]

Anyone ever use one of these?