Rear shocks

[Sat66]

So I wanted to get a little more height in the rear of my 66. I bought the add a leaf from Summit (pro comp #13120). Install was simple, no problems. Now this created a new issue, my air shocks fully extended (22.5") are a bout an inch or so to short? Anyone else run in to this using the add a leaf? Any recommendations on shocks? This is street, not a drag car. Was plan on replacing the air shocks anyway. Thanks.

 

[5.7 hemi]

You'll need to measure the car with the *** off the ground (rear hanging by the springs) and then put a jack under the rear and jack it up till the tires come off the ground. Those will be your extended and collapsed length measurements.

Also, check you shock cross member, if ya cracked it you'll need to fix it as these cars weren't designed for air shocks.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

The old 80's way was to either use C-body shocks or 2" shock extensions. Unless you have TERRIBLE tire/fender clearance issues, I'd recommend moving away from air shocks. If you keep the air shocks, I strongly suggest you put in "splitters" so you can air the shocks up independently. (two air lines instead of one with a "T")

 

[Cranky]

The old 80's way was to either use C-body shocks or 2" shock extensions. Unless you have TERRIBLE tire/fender clearance issues, I'd recommend moving away from air shocks. If you keep the air shocks, I strongly suggest you put in "splitters" so you can air the shocks up independently. (two air lines instead of one with a "T")

Yup....I agree. Two separate lines help control lean when you make a turn. With both air shocks tied together, the one being compressed during the turn will force air over to the one that's being extended which will make the car lean. Also, with a non limited slip rear, you can pre-load the right side with more air pressure and will keep that tire planted. The engine torques over (clockwise sitting in the driver's seat) to the right but the rear end torques counterclockwise which tries to lift the right rear tire. This is the main reason why you get that one wheel peel without a SureGrip diff.

 

[Sat66]

I do have the *** off the ground, rear end hanging. I pulled the center section, and it's at the shop getting 3.55 gears installed. I thought this would be a great time to install the the add a leaf. Looks like I'm going to have to wait until I get the sure grip back in. I'll get it reassembled, back on the ground, and go from there. Part of this process was to eliminate the air shocks. Any other advice is appricated. Thanks guys.

 

[Sat66]

Thought I could call the guys at KYB, and see what they could tell me. After looking on the net, I couldn't find a tech. Line anywhere.

 

[Cranky]

This is about it.... https://www.kyb.com/contact/customer-service/

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Good tip Cranky about the open rear ends....I never thought of that, but it makes sense.

I'm running KYB's on my car right now and they work pretty well and "feel" like a moderate upgrade from Monroe, etc. There are better (but more expensive) shocks...drag shocks, adjustables, etc, but KYB's seem fine for a mainly street car IMO.

 

[themechanic]

I have like new font and rear KYBs for sale here if you end up buying KYB shocks.

 

[Cranky]

Good tip Cranky about the open rear ends....I never thought of that, but it makes sense..

You can also crank up the left front torsion bar a bit to help with the preload. It will at least keep the car somewhat level but it won't help the car handle in everyday driving....and especially so if you get too extreme with it lol. Been there done that!