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Rebuilding 1968 440. What would you all say is a quote I should expect from the machine shop with the list of items I gave them? Hoping under $5k

T

tonyp25

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Just thought I’d pick your brain. This is my first time using a local machine shop. Not many in the area I live in so likely can only get one or two quotes. Was hoping to keep it under $5k but I know prices are all over the place.

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I think you are low, especially with engine dyno and break in.
 
Two thoughts/comments…
First, since you have a shop in mind, why not ask them. Their work order will likely have a breakdown similar to your list, and likely including things you hadn’t considered that need doing.
Second, when similar questions have been brought up in the past, the numbers provided by members were pretty widely varied. My guess is geography has a lot to do with it. For instance, since I live in the northern San Francisco Bay area, I get the privilege of getting to pay through the nose for a lot of this type of work. Circumstances have pushed most of these kinds of shops out of the area and raised costs on those who try to stay.
Not sure that is much help. Food for thought.
 
I say ask the shop to give you a quote or estimate, then go from there. 5K doesn't get much these days.
 
I went by a local shop to have my block inspected. It needs to be bored. Basic block work cleaning/cam bearings/align hone/deck/bore/hone/balance is close to $2k. Only parts included in that are the cam bearings. Cast piston/moly ring/gasket/bearing package is $900. Forged version is $1600. Plus need cam stuff, freeze plugs, heads inspected/advised on, oil pump etc etc.
 
My build, without dyno or break-in, was $6,000 including parts with a roller cam. Another shop bill was $2,000 to R&R the engine.
 
$5k sounds low, but depends on machine shop costs in your area - they are expensive here.

I am redoing my previously rebuilt 383 now. R&R pistons. Block already bored 0.030, but needs honed for new pistons. Crank already cut 10/10 will get balanced and polished. Valve job and chamber equalizing on new aluminum heads. With me supplying the parts, machine shop quote was $2400 for that plus jet washing the block .

So far, the cam, lifters, pushrods and cam bearings look good (~ 30k miles) so I am planning to re-use those unless we find issues. I have already purchased most of the parts - little things like new exhaust manifold studs, gaskets, paint, etc. add up fast. I am guessing I will be in around $6-7k when done with me doing the disassembly/re-assembly. New 440 Source Stealth heads were about a wash on cost versus machining my old iron heads.
 
It's unclear what exactly is happening here with the line item "Cylinder Heads 60929", and I see nothing on the list for cam and valve train. These items can add a lot of dough depending on what you are doing.... so I don't think anyone can throw an accurate cost guess at you.

If you are in a rural area like me, you probably don't have a local shop with dyno capability. Take that out and out assume stock cylinder head reconditioning.... then maybe $5k will do it.
 
#41 said:
It's unclear what exactly is happening here with the line item "Cylinder Heads 60929", and I see nothing on the list for cam and valve train. These items can add a lot of dough depending on what you are doing.... so I don't think anyone can throw an accurate cost guess at you.

If you are in a rural area like me, you probably don't have a local shop with dyno capability. Take that out and out assume stock cylinder head reconditioning.... then maybe $5k will do it.
Click to expand...
Those are RPM heads
 
I had 1800 in machining my block and assembling my pistons and rods. Cleaning the block, 0 decked, line honed, bored .030 over installed cam bearings. assembled heads replaced 2 valve seats, mild porting work and balancing the rotating assembly. The price included him purchasing the pistons at his cost.

I saved money by actually building the engine from the block up. I assembled everything except the pistons and rods. I did install the rings and and gapped them myself. I did install them and bolt them up to the crank. Installed my own freeze plugs etc etc.
 
Just the dyno cost alone will probably be close to $1,000 (if it's anything like the cost here in Australia). The dyno itself might be $500 but unless the shop has it's own dyno then the engine needs to be transported to the dyno shop and brought back.
Time = money.
 
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