recurve distributor

[Huicho417]

I have made some modifications to the 318 in my 67 Coronet. The major ones are edelbrock 1406 four bbl with matching intake manifold, hooker headers and flowmaster super 40 exhaust. Now after finally getting the 727 torqueflite tuned and running great I am looking into the next upgrade. I have seen several videos and articles on re-curving the distributor. Anyone have any suggestion on where i can find the springs needed?

 

[diesel_lv]

I got my spring kit, 3 sets of varying tension, from 4 seconds flat. But even the 2 stiffest springs come in too early for particular build. It is a lot of trial n error for some.

 

[toolmanmike]

You can contact @HALIFAXHOPS and he can go through your distributor with a custom curve for your combo.

 

[451Mopar]

https://4secondsflat.com/articles/j685sinstructions.html

 

[Dodge 330]

Mr. Gasket #925-B is what we use.

 

[Huicho417]

Thanks everyone, does just one spring or both need to be replaced? Also, for those of you that have done this modification. Does it make a considerable difference? My car runs great, I am just looking for more power from stop.

 

[toolmanmike]

Mr. Gasket #925-B is what we use.

I used those in my dual point. Took the heavy spring out and replaced it with a Mr Gasket spring.

 

[RemCharger]

The pkg comes with directions

 

[451Mopar]

Usually when the engine is modified, you will want more initial advance at idle (helps idle quality too), but limit total advance to about 36-degrees (stock heads), and have all the mechanical advance in by 3,000 RPM (Very general numbers, each engine will be a bit different). The plate determines how much mechanical advance the distributor has. Example 20-degrees if advance in the plate with 16 initial timing at idle would give 36 degrees total mechanical advance. The springs determine how quick the advance comes in. Too light of springs and the advance might try to start advancing at idle. To stiff a spring (set) and all the mechanical advance will require a much higher RPM for full advance.

 

[retractable]

Sorry my fat fingers hit the x.

 

[Darter6]

Too light of springs and the advance might try to start advancing at idle. To stiff a spring (set) and all the mechanical advance will require a much higher RPM for full advance.

Been there done that !