Removing motor...

[crossram 426]

Hi guys, I have a 63 polara 383hp 4 speed and am removing the motor. So far all bellhousing bolts undone, starter out. Am trying to get the motor only out but I can't seem to get it any further out than 1"-1.5" between block and bellhousing. Have I missed something or is it just stuck on the gearbox splines(shaft)?
I'm sure I'm missing something somewhere(long week)...

 

[chignikred]

your trans needs to slid out 6 inches to get out of the clutch /pressure plate, and throwout bearing. I think you are doing it the hard way. pull the eng/trans out together. How do you expect to put engine back in with trans hanging off crossmember???

 

[crossram 426]

am putting a 426 crossram and a833 back in, but was hoping to just pull the motor at this point to start cleaning up the engine bay. May have to pull both then. thanks

 

[oldbee]

Maybe the input shaft is binding--do you have a jack holding up frt. of trans?Otherwise, pull them both.

 

[HitIt]

Sometimes a few stabs on the clutch pedal can free things up & push them apart. Also try putting the trans in gear and rocking the crank back and forth. Could help break it lose if the input shaft is stuck

If you still can't get it, loosening the pressure plate to flywheel bolts could allow it to lose some tension on the input shaft and maybe let it slip out easier.

 

[coloradodave]

Sometimes a few stabs on the clutch pedal can free things up & push them apart. Also try putting the trans in gear and rocking the crank back and forth. Could help break it lose if the input shaft is stuck

If you still can't get it, loosening the pressure plate to flywheel bolts could allow it to lose some tension on the input shaft and maybe let it slip out easier.

Crossram 426: If you take off front wheels and drop car as low as you can leaving just enough clearance for the engine crane to slide under the control arms, jack up the rear and place the rearend on jack stands it will be a lot easier to remove and reinstall the engine and trans together. It also will prevent the trans input shaft from bending the clutch disc while you're trying to separate them. I'd work the bellhousing back as close to the block as you can and put in 4 bolts to secure it, tightening them evenly a little at a time, and then pull the whole assembly out together. Another helpful tool is a leveling device which connects between the hoist and the motor to allow you to adjust the angle of the assembly as you are pulling it. Also disconnect the speedometer cable (drain trans first), the e-brake cable and put a floor jack under the trans before you unbolt the crossmember. I have done my 63 Fury this way and it works great. Let us know how it goes and good luck.

 

[crossram 426]

Much appreciated guys, thanks. I have 2 days off shortly so I'll prob bolt it back together and pull it out as one unit. Just have to get under there to undo the old ball and trunion setup and the crossmember etc, drain the old BW T10 and see how we go.

Pulled the old heads off the 440 and found the pistons are L2266 +030 and has a 484 purple cam in it...so hopefully all the m/w gear(heads and manifold) will bolt straight on with no probs. Will be starting on the body sometime soon once I pass my next levels of exams and get a good $$ rise...

 

[coloradodave]

Oh yea, remove the 4 bolts on the ball & trunion too..........lol. Sounds like you have a good handle on it. Have fun.

 

[furyus63]

crossram 426,

I see in your post you said...so hopefully all the m/w gear(heads and manifold) will bolt straight on with no probs.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but all original max wedges have exhaust valve reliefs (eyebrows) in the tops of the cylinder bores. They aren't very big reliefs but they are a must have on an original max wedge of any year. Exhaust valves were so big they didn't clear the block without this machining. I think this is still required if using a 440 block.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63

 

[crossram 426]

hi fury, yes that's the only thing I thought about checking. As the 440 is 30thou over I'll get some plasticine and put it on top of the pistons in the exhaust valve area and rotate the motor and see what sort of clearance there is, may need to notch the top of the block, may not. I have it all sitting together at the moment and it looks awesome....

 

[62MAX]

crossram 426,

I see in your post you said...so hopefully all the m/w gear(heads and manifold) will bolt straight on with no probs.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but all original max wedges have exhaust valve reliefs (eyebrows) in the tops of the cylinder bores. They aren't very big reliefs but they are a must have on an original max wedge of any year. Exhaust valves were so big they didn't clear the block without this machining. I think this is still required if using a 440 block.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63

Just like this.

 

[coloradodave]

Furyus63: See attached pictures of my standard bore 440. Utilizing Felpro #8519PT head gaskets, I didn't need to notch the block for my max wedge heads. However, the advice to check your motor is correct and will give you peace of mind.

 

[furyus63]

Coloradodave,

Good information to keep. I'd never use the 320 degree, .520" lift cam on the street. But with a 1.88" exhaust valve would a .520 lift require a notch with a 440 block?

The photos of your max-heads just makes me want to go find another set just to put on the shelf and look at them.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63

 

[crossram 426]

Thanks for the info Coloradodave, much appreciated, what pushrods are you using(length), I got a set with my adjustable rockers but the ball on the lifter end is too big for the lifters, may be easier to get one that fits the lifter than changing the lifters? The ones that came out of the 440 heads were much smaller on the ball end.
I'll post a pick when I can to show you the difference.

 

[coloradodave]

Coloradodave,

Good information to keep. I'd never use the 320 degree, .520" lift cam on the street. But with a 1.88" exhaust valve would a .520 lift require a notch with a 440 block?

The photos of your max-heads just makes me want to go find another set just to put on the shelf and look at them.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63

Nick,
Glad you liked the pictures. These are ported and polished and are nice enough to display on the living room coffee table although my wife might have an opinion on that.......................

 

[coloradodave]

Nick,
Glad you liked the pictures. These are ported and polished and are nice enough to display on the living room coffee table although my wife might have an opinion on that.......................

Nick,
Geez, I can't get anything done in one post anymore. My cam has .507" lift so I can't answer for more than that. Again, you need to check for yourself.
Dave

 

[coloradodave]

Thanks for the info Coloradodave, much appreciated, what pushrods are you using(length), I got a set with my adjustable rockers but the ball on the lifter end is too big for the lifters, may be easier to get one that fits the lifter than changing the lifters? The ones that came out of the 440 heads were much smaller on the ball end.
I'll post a pick when I can to show you the difference.

Crossram 426: I'm using Crane lifters, #64641-16 Crane pushrods (3/8" X 9.125") and Harland Sharp aluminum roller rockers. Sorry for the delay. Just got back in town.
Dave

 

[crossram 426]

these are the two pushrods, one has a way smaller ball and fit's in the lifters and the bigger one came with the adjustable rocker gear. But doesn't fit in the lifter? maybe get new lifters?
thicker one is just under 9" long
thinner one is just over 9 1/4" long