Ride height/torsion bar

[JG1966]

I recently upgraded the front end suspension on 72 RR and my ride height is 5/8 of an inch (difference between bottom of lower ball joint and bottom of adjuster blade). Seems awfully low (FSM calls for 1 5/8). Stance is fine - and I'm not concerned with getting ride height to exactly 1 5/8 - but I want to make sure geometry is right.
My question is -- when I reinstalled my old torsion bars I followed FSM directions to the letter and it says nothing about clocking them. (I definitely have them in the correct sides.) I slid them in from the back and they went right in, but I don't recall making sure LCA was at its lowest point (because FSM said nothing about it). Is it possible torsion bars are installed "incorrectly" (not clocked or preloaded correctly)? Or is 5/8 ride height no big deal? I want everything right before I get her realigned. Thanks

 

[66 Sat]

I've recently installed mine too and didn't do any clocking. I believe as long they are installed with the suspension at full droop and the adjuster is backed right out, then there is plenty of scope for preloading torsion to the bar before you get near your final range of adjustment.

 

[JG1966]

I've recently installed mine too and didn't do any clocking. I believe as long they are installed with the suspension at full droop and the adjuster is backed right out, then there is plenty of scope for preloading torsion to the bar before you get near your final range of adjustment.

Thanks Sat 66. But should shock absorber and/or sway bar be disconnected to get suspension to full drop then? FSM never mentions that. Or can you get full drop with shock and sway bar attached?

 

[Wietse]

I had the same questions with my '69 Coronet as you have now, guess there will be not much difference in the parts and their installation.
With all components attached you can still remove/install the torsion bar, only thing i had to remove is the rubber bumper for the upper control arm to allow it to come a little lower.
With the ride height adjusting bolt backed all the way off the adjuster blade will sit just above it with a little play once the torsion bar is slided in it's socket.
If you would clock it 1 turn more you would not be able to get it in, or if you do get it in you will not be able to install the adjusting bolt and its bracket.

See in the picture, the adjuster blade sits flush inside the arm, with very minimal clearance between adjuster bolt and adjuster blade.

 

[JG1966]

I had the same questions with my '69 Coronet as you have now, guess there will be not much difference in the parts and their installation.
With all components attached you can still remove/install the torsion bar, only thing i had to remove is the rubber bumper for the upper control arm to allow it to come a little lower.
With the ride height adjusting bolt backed all the way off the adjuster blade will sit just above it with a little play once the torsion bar is slided in it's socket.
If you would clock it 1 turn more you would not be able to get it in, or if you do get it in you will not be able to install the adjusting bolt and its bracket.

See in the picture, the adjuster blade sits flush inside the arm, with very minimal clearance between adjuster bolt and adjuster blade.

View attachment 598782

Well, that's my problem. My adjuster blade is sitting up high when I just popped out torsion bar. Gotta move it down and reinstall.

 

[JG1966]

I had the same questions with my '69 Coronet as you have now, guess there will be not much difference in the parts and their installation.
With all components attached you can still remove/install the torsion bar, only thing i had to remove is the rubber bumper for the upper control arm to allow it to come a little lower.
With the ride height adjusting bolt backed all the way off the adjuster blade will sit just above it with a little play once the torsion bar is slided in it's socket.
If you would clock it 1 turn more you would not be able to get it in, or if you do get it in you will not be able to install the adjusting bolt and its bracket.

See in the picture, the adjuster blade sits flush inside the arm, with very minimal clearance between adjuster bolt and adjuster blade.

View attachment 598782

I think this looks better. I had to loosen the LCA pivot shaft nut to move blade down. (I know retighten to 145 LBs with weight on vehice). One side down, one to go. Thanks!

 

[Wietse]

Yep, that looks good.
Loosening the pivot shaft nut can make it easier indeed, just to give it some play to wiggle it in and out as it lines up a bit tight!

 

[Hemi 354]

That's what she said !

 

[miller]

Oh yeah...the old 'it slips right in'!

 

[Wietse]

We're talking torsion bars here right?
Or did i miss something??