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Rocker arm question.

Oh nooo! Yep that'll make it pop and run bad. Sorry to see it. Going through everything is an excellent plan. As far as a new cam...that all depends on how you intend to use your car and whether on not other performance upgrades are installed/planned.
 
Just a cruiser with a little thump to it , nothing real aggressive. , I have a 68 383 stock bore , rotating Assy. Looks to have been balanced . Grind marks on rods and drill holes and extra weld in some of the holes in the crank. 906 heads pretty stock looking . 2500 stall and 4-10 gears any recommendations.
 
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You’ll get a myriad of cam recommendations.
Just use some common sense.

Since it’s apart now, some things worth checking before deciding on a cam....

- have a chamber or two of the heads cc’d
-have the valve springs tested for open & closed loads, and distance til coil bind
-have the retainer to seal clearance checked
-measure piston deck clearance

Then, you’d like to know:
-headers or not
-intake manifold
-carb

Since it appears that the current cam wasn’t parkerized, it’s likely a MP cam, since they’re about the only ones not doing that on their flat tappet cams.
My experience from checking quite a few MP cams through the years is........ the cam probably doesn’t have much lobe taper(.0010 or less), which often spells trouble with HP cam profiles.
 
What did the old oil pump look like inside? Just curious. I know what one looks like after losing 2 complete windings from one valve spring breaking at 7300 rpm! :D
 
I have been struggling to get this motor to run right. First it wouldn't hold a time the timing mark jumped around on the balancer . So I changed the whole ignition system and it holds the timing mark great now but Still not running right. I hear a slight popping from number 2 cylinder so I pulled valve cover and see this. I am new to mopar engines but I would say the rockers should be centered on valve stem. Is there spacers or something that should be between these rockers? I am thinking this could possibly change cam lift and maybe even cause extra wear on guides by not being centered. Or am I overthinking this. Sorry for the long post but Like I said this is my first mopar and want it right. It is a 68 383 in my 65 Coronet

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Your rocker arms are assembled on the shaft out of order in the picture. They should be stamped LR and LT (if I recall) for the different offset.
 
What prh said
I check the ccs of the end chambers in each head and equalize if necessary
I cut the guides for viton seals
report back
lucky a push rod did not jump out of a cup or wear against the block- roll the pushrods on a flat or glass plate
also look for shiney spots as mentioned above
 
Here is pics of the oil pump
What did the old oil pump look like inside? Just curious. I know what one looks like after losing 2 complete windings from one valve spring breaking at 7300 rpm! :D

20200422_195859.jpg
 
It also has what I believe are Keith black pistons. Bottom end looks to be balanced , A weiand dual plane intake 750 Holley, headers 2and half inch exh. 2500 stall and 4 10 gears

20200422_195954.jpg 20200422_181202.jpg 20200422_180818.jpg 20200422_180824.jpg
 
Yup, kinda thought it might look like that and yes the KB stands for Keith Black...and what do the skirts look like?
 
Well a little update. I took the block I had it hot tanked and it was already 30 over . Had the rotating assy balanced , I ordered new forged pistons while they were balancing it. Ordered an Edelbrock top end kit for it and got it together this weekend and dropped in this afternoon. Just sat the intake a valve cover on to look look at. Been a long journey but I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel

IMG_20200817_175844580_HDR.jpg IMG_20200817_175937482.jpg
 
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