Rotor position on a 440

[RemCharger]

Turn the crank once and it will be at #1. Turn the crank 1 more time and it will be back at 6.

 

[Don Frelier]

Runs better with new carburetor. Added fuel pressure gauge set at 6psi so fuel delivery is good. I know its its more than likely a timing issue but just can't figure it out. I could be wrong but the rotor looks to be pointing at the #6 cylinder also with #1 at TDC. Not sure what is going on with that.

To elaborate:

Remember that it's a 4 stroke engine:
1. Intake
2. Compression
3. Power
4. Exhaust

So #2 and #4 the piston for cylinder 1 is at the TDC but only on #2 Compression does it fire.
with 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 are 4 cylinders apart so when on the Exhuast stroke for #1 (which still goes to TDC on the balancer) the rotor will be pointed at cylinder 6.

Fuel pressure and float setting level are different things.
A carbuereter that's new may not have the correct float setting if it's been dropped etc...

 

[Greg S]

Turn the crank once and it will be at #1. Turn the crank 1 more time and it will be back at 6.

Dumb question but shouldn't it be pointed at number one on compression stroke rather than exhaust stroke?

 

[RemCharger]

Dumb question but shouldn't it be pointed at number one on compression stroke rather than exhaust stroke?

I gathered from your comments that it runs good. Therefore, the rotor must be positioned properly. No more positioning questions required.
Just timing.

 

[Dave6T4]

Runs better with new carburetor. Added fuel pressure gauge set at 6psi so fuel delivery is good. I know its its more than likely a timing issue but just can't figure it out. I could be wrong but the rotor looks to be pointing at the #6 cylinder also with #1 at TDC. Not sure what is going on with that.

Pull the distributor out and rotate shaft 180 degrees. You might have to rewire your cap as well.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Just cause it’s a new carb doesn’t mean it’s clean inside. Plenty of horror stories out there on new carbs having casting pieces and other metal shavings in them. Quality control isn’t what it used to be.

 

[Charlie Brown]

You beat me to it. I did this for a friend last fall. He bought a '65 Coronet with a 440, It ran, but did not seem to have any power. We found #1 TDC by bumping the engine over on the starter, with thumb over #1 spark plug hole. The distributor/oil pump drive gear was out by one tooth. We also discovered that the TDC mark on the balancer was not right either. We painted a new mark on the balancer, until my friend could get it changed. We put it all back together, and took his car for a drive. Quite a change in performance!

Does it really matter how the gear is installed? Does everything just need to be phased?

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Does it really matter how the gear is installed? Does everything just need to be phased?

It doesn’t matter. You can make #1 be wherever you want and as long as the firing order is correct from there it will be fine.

 

[Geoff 2]

If 'it runs great in the garage' [ post #3 ] then the problem has NOTHING to do with the rotor position. Rotor position is a convenience for the factory. The rotor can be in any one of the 8 positions as long as the plug leads in the cap are moved accordingly.
New carb? My bet is on the carb.
What carb? What cam? Give more info.

 

[Greg S]

Ran poor before new carburetor, its definitely on the small side at 600cfm. Cam unknown. Timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at 9 o'clock with the #1 'cylinder at TDC.

 

[Don Frelier]

Do a compression check.

 

[Daves69]

Does it really matter how the gear is installed?

Kinda' depends on the person doing the work and their knowledge I suspect.
What does the FSM say?

Timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at 9 o'clock with the #1 'cylinder at TDC.

Seems you're off a bit............

How did you verify the piston is actually @ TDC?

 

[Don Frelier]

Kinda' depends on the person doing the work and their knowledge I suspect.
What does the FSM say?

Seems you're off a bit............
View attachment 2005327


How did you verify the piston is actually @ TDC?

If that's true then the balancer has slipped.

 

[Greg S]

Kinda' depends on the person doing the work and their knowledge I suspect.
What does the FSM say?

Seems you're off a bit............
View attachment 2005327


How did you verify the piston is actually @ TDC?

Im definitely a shade tree mechanic..I find tdc with paper or finger pushing out of the cylinder. Even if im a hair off that balancer shouldn't be pointing directly at 9.

 

[Daves69]

Im definitely a shade tree mechanic..I find tdc with paper or finger pushing out of the cylinder. Even if im a hair off that balancer shouldn't be pointing directly at 9.

Check your balancer to see if the outside ring has slipped.
I have two steel crank balancers. Both appear to have the TDC mark 90° from the keyway.

 

[Don Frelier]

Im definitely a shade tree mechanic..I find tdc with paper or finger pushing out of the cylinder. Even if im a hair off that balancer shouldn't be pointing directly at 9.

Again if the balancer is not at 0 degrees at TDC then the balancer is likely slipped so you need to put a timing tape on it at TDC and hope it doesn't slip more.
If you set the timing the way it is then it's not at 12 deg. BTDC it more like 10 deg. ATDC.
Which likely explains why it runs crappy.