• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Shock installation question

dodgemahal

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:27 PM
Joined
Dec 2, 2022
Messages
52
Reaction score
37
Location
Illinois
I'm installing shocks on my 67 Coronet. The Factory Service Manual instructs tightening fasteners to spec with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground. How important is this? I can't think of a reason why this matters.

Also, I'm putting on KYB gas adjust shocks. Anyone have them and what do you think of them if you do?
 
I’m sure I’ve tightened some shocks without the full vehicle weight. Haven’t had any issues either way.

I’m running KYB shocks on my 68 coronet. Mine is just a cruiser so they are ok. If I was going to go for better handling on my car I would upgrade to a better shock.
 
KYB gas adjust are kinda harsh in my opinion.

many here love bilstein. Not cheap but supposedly great
 
I've never installed shocks with the vehicle on the ground.
I also never put a torque wrench on any of them.

I have KYB's on my 66 Charger (383) and they are pretty good.

I have KYB's on my 66 Satellite (383) and it is very stiff. It crashes on a pothole.
 
I would guess it's a geometry thing just like the LCA pivot shaft, so when you tighten it up the rubber bushing is central to it's rotation arc.
 
I do not see the bolts with nuts as an issue. The front top stud could be. The shock most of the time is short so to get proper compression on the bushings the car should be with wheels on the ground.
 
dadsbee is correct. In theory when the car is at rest and tires are on the ground there is no bind/load on the bushing.
Shocks I doubt many will do this. But it is good to do when replacing lower control arm bushings along with rear spring bushings.
Upper control arm bushings are tightened when the front end alignment is done and the car is at rest.
 
IMHO the KYB shocks that came with my '66 Satellite were harsh, could feel every crack in the pavement. I switched to CE drag shocks, MUCH smoother ride on the street. Go figure.
 
They are right, every bushing should be tightened at ride height. Cars should also never be stored with the wheels just hanging for the same reason. Kyb shocks are not that bad with radials and normal tire pressures, they are not race shocks but get sure a bad rap. Dual adjustable vikings are great shocks.
 
Ouch! Based on the feedback it sounds like I'm using the wrong shock. To be clear, KYB makes the Excel-G(softer ride) and the Gas-A-Just monotube(stiffer ride). I LOVE Bilsteins, but was trying to save a nickel.
 
Cost saving Gabriel Red Riders. Monroe-Matics next .
 
These KYB Gas Adjust were $22 for the front, $33 for the rear, a piece. I thought that was a good deal. Plus, KYB has a rebate program right now, so even cheaper!
 
1676334538637.png

rock auto and all these shocks are the price range KYB was hte best in the middle price rnge quality i am told has changed.
 
Anyone try QA1 stocker stars? I keep waiting for a set to end up on the shelves at summit's outlet center. Got close last week when I saw a pair at the arlington store but they were for mustangs unfortunately. I don't need a new set of shocks but I really want them.
 
My Satellite was intended to be a street cruiser. The KYB's gas shocks were very harsh. As I moved to more of a drag race mode I switched to the CE drag shocks, set on the "stiff" setting. On the street I was amazed how much smoother the car rode. My street tires are radials. Just my experience.
 
CE drag shocks are great for street use also. Been using them for years.

They say not intended for the street but they are fine, and ride decent.
 
These KYB Gas Adjust were $22 for the front, $33 for the rear, a piece. I thought that was a good deal. Plus, KYB has a rebate program right now, so even cheaper!
Kill.
Your.
Butt.
The KYB Gas-A-Just shocks are cheap because they suck. They are a digressive design. This means that as they go through their range of travel, they go from harsh to soft....exactly the opposite of a good shock that is initially soft but gets harder/firmer toward the end of it's travel.
Progressive shocks are soft initially so that they soak up bumps without being harsh but as the suspension moves further, they get firmer.
KYBs are a crutch for soft torsion bars and springs. IF you put a 440 into a 318 car and still have the same torsion bars, the KYBs may be okay because they do firm up the ride a bit.
Otherwise, I'd avoid them like I would an insurance salesman or Jehovah's Witness at the door.
 
Kill.
Your.
Butt.
The KYB Gas-A-Just shocks are cheap because they suck. They are a digressive design. This means that as they go through their range of travel, they go from harsh to soft....exactly the opposite of a good shock that is initially soft but gets harder/firmer toward the end of it's travel.
Progressive shocks are soft initially so that they soak up bumps without being harsh but as the suspension moves further, they get firmer.
KYBs are a crutch for soft torsion bars and springs. IF you put a 440 into a 318 car and still have the same torsion bars, the KYBs may be okay because they do firm up the ride a bit.
Otherwise, I'd avoid them like I would an insurance salesman or Jehovah's Witness at the door.
Too late....they're on already. I have to try 'em out for awhile to see if what you say is valid. Thanks for the input!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top