Should i reuse Hydraulic lifters

[1 Wild R/T]

No side load on lifters so all holes should basically be the same. Not saying that there aren't examples but i"ve not seen a lifter with scuffed skirts. Sure, if you marked them on disassembly great, however if they somehow became out of order then I wouldn't worry about it and darn sure wouldn't run out & buy a new set. A light coat of cam lube on the bottom is cheap insurance.
As far as pushrod length, ask Google.

It's not the wear pattern created by the lifter bore/lifter body that concerns experienced engine builders.... It's the contact between the lifter face and the cam lobe... Mixing lifters is a big no-no... I've reused a number of cams & lifters.. Partly because I'm cheap but mostly because by following a few simple rules I've never had a used cam fail....

 

[MoparLeo]

You said you checked the rings. How ? If you removed the pistons, it will be impossible to get the rings back in the exact same orientation.
They wear oval shaped so would need replacing if removed from cylinders along with at least a cylinder hone.

 

[Arlo Price]

It's not the wear pattern created by the lifter bore/lifter body that concerns experienced engine builders.... It's the contact between the lifter face and the cam lobe... Mixing lifters is a big no-no... I've reused a number of cams & lifters.. Partly because I'm cheap but mostly because by following a few simple rules I've never had a used cam fail....

I just didn't want to get into the part about setting up the cam jig & dial indicator or maybe short-cutting & just using a mic on cam & lifters

 

[69RunnerMike]

Since you have the engine apart, it would be a good idea to have the lifters re-faced. You do not need to pull them apart.

Do NOT, repeat, do not buy new lifters as they are wiping out cams & lifters.

I'm doing a similar project. Are you saying not to use new lifters with a used cam?

 

[Ceedawg]

I bought a 69 RR in 73, had a 509 cam, bad crank. Pushrod had bent lifter popped out lost oil pressure and piggybacked a rod bearing (previous owner, paid $250 for whole car). New crank and back together with adjustable rockers no more bent pr. Raced that engine for 3 years in a Duster, in 92 put the cam lifters in a 64 Plym with 440, I didn’t keep the lifters in right order. Haven’t raced the car since 2003 but still there and no problems. Save all the old lifters (318 to 440s all the same) they’re 1000% better than what’s sold today, just have them refaced.

 

[Geoff 2]

69RunnerMike.
What I am saying is do not use lifters that have been made in the last 20+ yrs because a lot of them are poor quality....& there is no way to tell by just looking at them. Buying 'brand name' lifters makes no difference because none of the cam companies make their own lifters.

To make sure your lifters do not fail, get some lifters that are 25+ yrs old [ factory or aftermarket ] & have them re-faced. I am told Oregon Cams re-faces them.

 

[Ceedawg]

69RunnerMike.
What I am saying is do not use lifters that have been made in the last 20+ yrs because a lot of them are poor quality....& there is no way to tell by just looking at them. Buying 'brand name' lifters makes no difference because none of the cam companies make their own lifters.

To make sure your lifters do not fail, get some lifters that are 25+ yrs old [ factory or aftermarket ] & have them re-faced. I am told Oregon Cams re-faces them.

Trend does them also. I’m looking to make a jig to run them on my valve grinding machine soon

 

[Rishi]

When replacing (just the) head gaskets, I'm not even sure I've removed the lifters in the past. So reusing them is a no-brainer.

If you have bent pushrods, it's definitely possible you have one or more bent valves. If you've confirmed, beyond a doubt, that none of the valves are bent, I would reuse the lifters with a full new set of pushrods.

Did I read correctly this is twice, now, the timing chain has jumped on this engine? Do what you can to prevent this from happening again. If the valves are true, you may have dodged a bullet. But doing so twice on the same engine? This is lucky, indeed, and I would be buying lottery tickets, because the gods are favoring you.

 

[Denman]

So I have an update for yall. Turns out the block is a 1994 360 magnum block. They took the upperside from an LA 360. And the cam. The pushrods would typically need to be 7.5 on an LA but these measured 7.375 "no load" I bought 7.397 rods online so I have the correct preload. There were two valves that had been reworked. They were sticking out further. They had a .160 load on the 7.500 rods. I believe that was the reason for the bent rods. I purged ALL the lifters and some were very tight. They would have bent the new rods immediately because they would not compress without a lot of pressure. After I purged them they worked fine.

All done, Running great!!! It is still overheating at highway speed. RPM 2200+ it overheats. Idle all day no overheating. 1500 RPM no overheating. I don't know what else to do. I removed the water pump and it had a compressor bolt in it. I removed the bolt. It is an anti-cavitation water pump. I Reinstalled the water pump didn't affect the overheating. Gutted the thermostat to use just the body. Didnt help. Changed the head gasket. Didn't help. The radiator flows great. Hoses are good temperature. The bottom hose is 10 degrees different than the top. Even the hoses are not as hot as the engine. The engine says 220 hoses are 180. I'm starting to think it's a blockage in the engine somewhere. The flow goes up the hose and maybe it's not getting a good flow through the engine.

 

[Geoff 2]

No wonder it overheats!! There is a BIG gap between the impeller blades & the housing. Ideally, there should be no gap. As it is now, water has an escape route; it just gets churned up, but not captured & pumped through the engine.

 

[1967coronet]

Go to the parts store and get a oem style pump.
A 180 thermostat.
If the engine is not over heating at lower rpm and idle I do not think it's plugged.
Higher rpm heating is most times caused by lack of air flow.
Stock style fixed or clutch fan and shroud.
Hood to radiator seal, hood to cowl seal,
Bottom filler pan along rad support.
The one thing that is strange to me is the 10 degree temp change from top to bottom.
It should be 40 degrees or close.
I think you have to fast of flow through the radiator.
This would show up more even at higher rpms.

 

[RemCharger]

Is that the stock magnum waterpump??