Smaller diameter water pump pulley

[Don67Satellite]

As @Geoff 2 said, more timing may help it to run a bit cooler, 12 isn't much for a smogger. You got a bump running those heads, but it's still low compression. I have a '78 440 with the 452's and I am running my Progression Ignition distributor programmed with 22 initial, 38 all in @3000 with 10 degrees of added vacuum advance. I used to run 14-16 with my old mechanical distributor, but increased it with this one after some research. It doesn't ping and it really came alive with that extra timing. With your setup you may not need as much as I run.

I also used to run a generic 5 blade "steel race fan" which I thought had good blade pitch, but I switched to a stock Ma Mopar 7 blade, and that thing really moves air.

With the current setup, it happily sits at 180 degrees unless it's super hot out and I'm in gridlock, then maybe climbs up to 185-195. But I did throw everything at it including the kitchen sink to achieve this.

 

[Mark1972]

So, digging through my shed full of parts I found the fan that came on the motor. A 20", 7 blade, A/C clutch fan. I also had the clutch for it(a new one i bought years ago and forgot about), and installed it yesterday afternoon. I had to modify the shroud for proper fit, but you can feel the air moving now a lot more than before. I took the car out today(90 degrees here)and while it came up to 200 quickly, it then dropped to 190ish. I assume that's the clutch engaging. Never had an issue today. I read somewhere that if its overheating when moving, its a fluid problem. If its overheating when idling, its an air problem. Well I guess its an air problem and I'm hoping I solved it.

 

[RemCharger]

That sounds good. If it were me, I would switch to a 180° stat and see what happens. That 15° cushion may be what you need.

, but you can feel the air moving now a lot more than before. I took the car out today(90 degrees here)and while it came up to 200 quickly, it then dropped to 190ish.

I'd still go back to a 180.

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm currently running the single groove unit from 440Source I put on the car years ago.

Water Pump Pulley - Non A/C - New Reproduction

I've been fighting overheating issues, at idle, for years. I've tried different stats. Currently running a 195 Robertshaw. I know airflow is the problem as when I'm parked at idle, and it start keeping towards 210, I just put it in neutral and rev it to around 1500rpm, and it comes back down to 200-205. I've also been told my timing could be causing issues as well. Im still doing more research on that. It's been recommended that I try overdriving my fan to increase air flow. The 440Source pulley is 6 13/16" diameter x 2 11/16" depth. Apparently the A/C pulleys are smaller, but I cant find one with a single groove. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

On my 1970 GTX and original six barrel car, RS23V0A******, 4 speed car, 4.10 Dana rear end, the car is originally equipped with the A34 Super track pack option. The car now has the following:
GLENRAY REPRODUCTION 26" MAX COOL RADIATOR
# 2946716 HEMI Water pump sheave.....~ 5-1/2" pitch diameter
# 2863216 HEMI 7 blade ALUMINUM Fan ~ 3" pitch or ~ 30 degree angle
# 2806070 TORQUE DRIVE FAN CLUTCH,
Standard Mopar OEM fan shroud
16# pressure cap
50/50 % mix DEXCOOL /water
FLOWKOOLER WATER PUMP for B/RB ENGINE
180° F high flow thermostat
Try GreatlakesNOS for parts ......expensive or one of the other Mopar suppliers maybe GLENRAY could help or Jim Kramer, in Butler Pa.....google Kramer automotive....vast amount of NOS Mopar parts.......
BOB RENTON

 

[toolmanmike]

I'd still go back to a 180.

And bump the timing up to at lest 15 before. He should just watch the total but it's interesting that when you hook up the vacuum advance, you get upward of 50° at 3-5000+ rpm.

 

[Don67Satellite]

Sounds like you made some progress @Mark1972 but I agree with @RemCharger that a 180 thermostat would be better. Not sure what applications that they used 195's in but I hear of people using them. However if the fan change keeps the temps in a reasonable range, no need to fix what isn't broken.

Edit: what @toolmanmike said. I'd give that pooch some more timing. Might help some as well as get a bit more butt-dyno smiles.

 

[Mark1972]

Ok, so I know this thread isn't about timing, and forgive my ignorance, but if total timing is 35 degrees, and initial is 10-12, to go about changing the initial without changing the total would require modifying or changing the weights?

How to limit mechanical advance in a mopar distributor, tuning for street, strip or all out racing, cure that rich stinky idle, win races

 

[Don67Satellite]

In my old distributor I would change out the springs for a different timing curve. It depends what you have. Lots of people like to use that easy limiter plate so you can set up the initial where you like it and then limit the total with the plate. I never used one of those but sounds easy.

 

[WileE]

So, digging through my shed full of parts I found the fan that came on the motor. A 20", 7 blade, A/C clutch fan. I also had the clutch for it(a new one i bought years ago and forgot about), and installed it yesterday afternoon. I had to modify the shroud for proper fit, but you can feel the air moving now a lot more than before. I took the car out today(90 degrees here)and while it came up to 200 quickly, it then dropped to 190ish. I assume that's the clutch engaging. Never had an issue today. I read somewhere that if its overheating when moving, its a fluid problem. If its overheating when idling, its an air problem. Well I guess its an air problem and I'm hoping I solved it.

And once again, a factory configuration solves the problem. I've always liked a 180 stat, though.

 

[Geoff 2]

Sometimes the 'factory configuration' does not work because modifications have been made....

A great example is the ' big cam' syndrome. The engine now idles 300 rpm higher than stock, rough as hell, as it protests about the big cam that YOU want...but it hates. The engine is now very inefficient at idle, has to work harder...& builds up more heat at idle & low rpm. The fix is a loooot more idle timing, as a starting point.

 

[Mark1972]

In my old distributor I would change out the springs for a different timing curve. It depends what you have. Lots of people like to use that easy limiter plate so you can set up the initial where you like it and then limit the total with the plate. I never used one of those but sounds easy.

The plates are what a friend of mine suggested. For $40usd it seems to be worth the cost. I've also found a few videos online using them, so I'll put in the order today. Doing a 130 mile trip in the car today. Only supposed to be 80F today, but it will be a good test. I still have the Robertshaw 180 stat for it, and might reinstall it tomorrow depending on how today goes. The 195 was a recommendation in order to allow the radiator more time to cool the fluid. Regardless, the big clutch fan seems to have helped, even though I had to do some cutting on my shroud to fit it.

 

[1967coronet]

As far as timing, there are chrysler 9.5 plates in many old distributors.
That gives you a 19 swing without welding ect. You can if your engine needs it start at 16 to 17 at idle.
I used one of the 9.5s in mine with lighter springs .
On the cooling one thing that gets over looked is the under hood seals. Both front and back.