speedo cluster removal
- Thread starter lorny
- Start date
Need to lower the steering column an inch or two - or at least I have. Good idea to lay a towel on it to protect the finish. Remove the cluster screws and the heater controls face plate. I pull the ash tray frame and tray out too for some more access.
Pull the cluster out and rotate the top down at the same time to get a little room behind it to better reach the speedo cable nut and undo it. It will probably only come out a couple of inches depending on drag from the speedo cable and wire connections. Once the cable is loose you may be able to loosen some of the wiring harness underneath to pull it out a little further, but it will still be balanced on the lower edge of the dash frame.
Then I usually start on the right side and remove the screws holding the temperature controls to the cluster and work it loose and shove it back into the dash. That should free up the cluster to where the right side ca be pulled further out and the alternator gage wires removed (nut connections ) and the 5-pin connection to the printed circuit pulled loose. Then I try to rotate the left side out but and maybe you will be able to get to the headlight switch plug from above, but you may have to reach up from underneath. Then remove the plugs from the wiper switch and the 5-pin connection to the printed circuit on that side. As an option, you can pull the light and wiper switch knobs and nuts securing them to the cluster and just push them back and loose from the cluster to deal with later.
You should be able to carefully finish pulling the cluster clear. I have always pulled my steering wheel to get better access - not sure if that needs to be done for the cluster to clear or not.
At least this is how I’ve done it and installation is just the reverse.
Pull the cluster out and rotate the top down at the same time to get a little room behind it to better reach the speedo cable nut and undo it. It will probably only come out a couple of inches depending on drag from the speedo cable and wire connections. Once the cable is loose you may be able to loosen some of the wiring harness underneath to pull it out a little further, but it will still be balanced on the lower edge of the dash frame.
Then I usually start on the right side and remove the screws holding the temperature controls to the cluster and work it loose and shove it back into the dash. That should free up the cluster to where the right side ca be pulled further out and the alternator gage wires removed (nut connections ) and the 5-pin connection to the printed circuit pulled loose. Then I try to rotate the left side out but and maybe you will be able to get to the headlight switch plug from above, but you may have to reach up from underneath. Then remove the plugs from the wiper switch and the 5-pin connection to the printed circuit on that side. As an option, you can pull the light and wiper switch knobs and nuts securing them to the cluster and just push them back and loose from the cluster to deal with later.
You should be able to carefully finish pulling the cluster clear. I have always pulled my steering wheel to get better access - not sure if that needs to be done for the cluster to clear or not.
At least this is how I’ve done it and installation is just the reverse.
Last edited:
lorny
Well-Known Member
thx my heater control plate is sticky . does it come off?
ok sounds like the heater controls are my issue for removal
the top 3 light sockets near and including high beam indicator are not working even though they test good out of the car on the bench
There are two exposed screws that secure the cover plate and it should come off when the two lever knobs are removed. It may be stuck a little. If just replacing light bulbs I would try to free the large wire bundle in back of the cluster from the two hooks on either side of the steering column and pedal box frame, to let you pull the cluster far enough forward so that you can reach the light sockets by reaching up behind it. The speedo cable should slide through the firewall a little to help.
lorny
Well-Known Member
speedo is bouncing an making noise
Jc cooper
Second gear fun!
You could try removing the inner from the speedo housing and clean it up good and lube with white lithium grease or graphite and reinstall into housing if cable is ok ! Sometimes a fix if it is a cable problem!
justjim
Well-Known Member
disconnect the battery FIRST to avoid any meltage before you even start !!
lorny
Well-Known Member
thx
lorny
Well-Known Member
thx
Oh boy. - I missed in your orig post about having AC. My 67 has AC and that add a lot of complication from the duct work back there and the AC controls. I drop as much of the AC duct as I can but I never did figure out how to detach it from the under dash, outside vents. May just want to unbolt the left one completely. I also remove the fuse box screw so I can move it out of the way of getting my arm up there. Also the AC control unit is more cumbersome with a light unit and the vacuum controls. But the AC really makes things difficult. I would remove the light and wiper switch knobs and attaching nuts and push them back. Then try to work the left side of the cluster out as far as you can by unhooking the harness from the hooks in back and rearranging it - straightening it. This is the opposite from what I said above as far as which side to start on. Unplug the left circuit board plug from around or from underneath as you can. Hopefully that will free it up enough that you can unscrew the speedometer cable. The proceed on to the right side circuit board plug and alt gage connections. The speedometer cable is really hard to get to from underneath with the AC duct work.
You can pull the inner speedometer cable out of the sheath after it is disconnected. I usually coil it on some newspapers after wiping any grunge off it. I then coat it with Tri-Flow which is dry lube in an evaporative carrier. While still wet I sprinkle it with good old dry graphite powder which you may have to hunt for some or buy on line. Then I slide it back into the sheath (can be a bit messy) and twist it on the way down and until the hex end slides into the transmission drive great. There are a great many recipes for lubing speedo cable and this is just one. Sometimes the inner lining in the housing sheath is worn though, and the whole cable has to be replaced.
You can pull the inner speedometer cable out of the sheath after it is disconnected. I usually coil it on some newspapers after wiping any grunge off it. I then coat it with Tri-Flow which is dry lube in an evaporative carrier. While still wet I sprinkle it with good old dry graphite powder which you may have to hunt for some or buy on line. Then I slide it back into the sheath (can be a bit messy) and twist it on the way down and until the hex end slides into the transmission drive great. There are a great many recipes for lubing speedo cable and this is just one. Sometimes the inner lining in the housing sheath is worn though, and the whole cable has to be replaced.
lorny
Well-Known Member
thx i took a break from the cluster
previous owner obviously did some work and extended the plug wires on the left side wich appear to be dash lights (pins are removed/broken and wires are soldered to cluster)
the pins on the right plug the bottom one broke off
i,ll do some resurch and see if i can eliminate pin plugs (print my free 700 p manual)
i don't think plymouth idea of putting switches in cluster instead of underneath like everyone else was a good idea
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