Starter engages, not spinning the engine!
- Thread starter wantahemi
- Start date
wantahemi
Well-Known Member
I'm going to check with factory service manual for specs and clearances. I bought new starter bolt, stud and nut and the shield / shim. Luckily I happen to have another 440 /727 on a stand that starts easy so that will be helpful
Truly appreciate the help. Finally got son dropped at college and all setup so tomorrow is trouble shoot day!!!!
Truly appreciate the help. Finally got son dropped at college and all setup so tomorrow is trouble shoot day!!!!
wantahemi
Well-Known Member
Shin is in (brand new)
Flex plate and flywheel are 440 source and just about a year old. All installed with ARP bolts, torqued and thread sealer.
Gonna start with cables to battery and may pull tranny just to see alignment and actual condition of flywheel. Plus I can see the engagement. I have a run stand mount for starter.
Going to see where this takes me.......
Flex plate and flywheel are 440 source and just about a year old. All installed with ARP bolts, torqued and thread sealer.
Gonna start with cables to battery and may pull tranny just to see alignment and actual condition of flywheel. Plus I can see the engagement. I have a run stand mount for starter.
Going to see where this takes me.......
wantahemi
Well-Known Member
Shim....
Has the starter gear in the past been ok? Is the engine and trans from different cars?
wantahemi
Well-Known Member
Motor and tranny rebuilt a year ago or so. Nothing changed. Had no issues electrical or otherwise since MAD electrical upgrades. Starter that was in it and working fine hung up one day when starting and I had to put it on lift to disengage it. I dropped the starter when removing it to make sure it didn't burn up because it sounded like it was spinning and stuck. I broke lower ear off. So when I put replacement(s) in they alll bump the gear into flywheel but will not spin motor. I briefly looked at re pop cable going to starter tonight and it looks pulled out of connector. I'm going to amp clamp things tomorrow to get a better idea of what's the cause. I think the cable is a part of problem after tonight
miller
Well-Known Member
Suppose you already know, you can bench test the starter, directly off a battery. Just have a good hand on it. The bendix should kick the gear out to the stop, and pull back in, with power off. If it's hanging, there's a mechanical problem on the starter.
Might want to get a good look (somehow) at the ring gear it engages. Bent? Cracked? But, you mentioned it was working okay, before. Unless something happened to it.
Might want to get a good look (somehow) at the ring gear it engages. Bent? Cracked? But, you mentioned it was working okay, before. Unless something happened to it.
wantahemi
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for their help. I installed the new 440 Source starter, checked alignment and flywheel teeth. All was good. I tested the continuity of all grounds and power cables and all Ohmed out. Finally, got a wee bit frustrated and pulled the cables off and all looked and tested good. Put the ground wire from battery back on and the damn thing started. Grabbed the ground cable and flexed it and it went right back to the clicking and no start issues. Took the cable off and if you bend it the right way the damn thing shows open. The cable is a year old repop and looks brand new. Anyway a $12 ground cable from AutoZone has solved the issue. Such a dumb thing, but I am a pro on starter testing and diagnosis. Just another class at Mopar University!!
Seriously, you guys all rock. Thank you for great advice and help,
Al
Seriously, you guys all rock. Thank you for great advice and help,
Al
Glad it ended up being a simple fix. I had a repop positive cable loose at the battery clamp cause slow crank and smoke. Right out of the packaging.
Guess you caught your tail, a reference to post#2.
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wantahemi
Well-Known Member
And I just walked outside to take it to a car show and it just clicks at the relay. Jumped the ground and NOTHING! I'm so gonna be an alcoholic by the end of the day!
That sucks.
wantahemi
Well-Known Member
Yeah it does. On a side note, only took Summit 3 tries to get me a new fan shroud. They shipped it twice and it came in pieces. Finally, they actually wrapped it with plastic and extra boxes. The first two times they literally dropped a plastic shroud in a way too big box and hoped that FedEx and UPS would not play football with it.
I'm taking an hour to think before I go out back and plasma cut my car in half to get a better look. Just frustrated and venting for now. It seems you always need just one more class at Mopar University to graduate. Al
I'm taking an hour to think before I go out back and plasma cut my car in half to get a better look. Just frustrated and venting for now. It seems you always need just one more class at Mopar University to graduate. Al
EngineerDoug
Well-Known Member
I know this thread is several years old, but I think I have the same problem as the OP. New stroker motor, only a few miles on it, suddenly won't turn over. Starter drive engages with a loud click, but starter does not even try to turn. I replaced the starter, checked the connections, and load tested the battery. Still no joy.
Positive battery cable is a repro. The motor will bar over, though it is tight (new 500 inch motor, 10:1, solid cam). At this point I am strongly suspecting the battery cable - what else could it be?
Positive battery cable is a repro. The motor will bar over, though it is tight (new 500 inch motor, 10:1, solid cam). At this point I am strongly suspecting the battery cable - what else could it be?
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Contact ring in the starter solenoid is not contacting the battery stud when the solenoid is energized.
EngineerDoug
Well-Known Member
Right you are! I monitored the big terminal on the bottom of the starter - the one that feeds the motor. No voltage when the Bendix drive kicks in.
So the next step is to determine if this is due to no power on the input side of the solenoid switch, or if somehow the drive gear is being prevented from moving all the way backward. Note I had disassembled my previous starter (nearly new) and found nothing suspect in the solenoid contacts.
At least I am making some progress, after thinking I was losing my mind!?!?!?!
So the next step is to determine if this is due to no power on the input side of the solenoid switch, or if somehow the drive gear is being prevented from moving all the way backward. Note I had disassembled my previous starter (nearly new) and found nothing suspect in the solenoid contacts.
At least I am making some progress, after thinking I was losing my mind!?!?!?!
EngineerDoug
Well-Known Member
OK found the problem. Wiring is OK, but the Bendix drive does not fully extend. It hits the ring gear, so the gears do not mesh.
Note this is an aftermarket converter - a high end unit, not an off-the shelf cheapie. From what I can see, the starter needs to move outboard a tiny bit.
Has anybody else seen this issue? I assume my course of action is to shave a bit off the starter nose? This sits in a recess at the front of the transmission, and some Dykem shows it limits the outboard movement of the starter itself.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Note this is an aftermarket converter - a high end unit, not an off-the shelf cheapie. From what I can see, the starter needs to move outboard a tiny bit.
Has anybody else seen this issue? I assume my course of action is to shave a bit off the starter nose? This sits in a recess at the front of the transmission, and some Dykem shows it limits the outboard movement of the starter itself.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
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