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Stuck #2 header bolt

67SniperHockey

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Hey guys - have a stuck #2 cylinder header bolt. Been spraying it with Aerokroil every day for a week. Probably the most difficult bolt to get at - closed end wrench doesn’t fit, open ended wrench does but minimal room. Just did a propane torch on it but don’t think it gets it hot enough. Any other suggestions?

Replacing gaskets - drivers side is completed. This is the last bolt to remove on this side - however I re-torqued 1 bolt on 8 and the very front bolt so this last stuck one isn’t the hinge point - but she won’t budge.
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Can you take a box end wrench and grind it just enough to fit?
 
I got a 7/16 box end wrench (longer one for torque) and an 11mm - box end doesn’t fit but open end does but both have play. A 10mm won’t go on it. It had definitely been messed with before as far as I can tell.

My only other thought is to sawzall the header tube off - hopefully get bolt out, then weld the tube back to the flange (not a solid flange) and then install with both bolts and weld header tubes back together where they meet up - but that’s a lot for 1 bolt.
 
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just trying to help here, remove the #2 and #4 sparkplugs and work from underneath with a boxend wrench.
 
When you started this topic you said a closed end/box wrench would not fit.
 
just trying to help here, remove the #2 and #4 sparkplugs and work from underneath with a boxend wrench.

Tried that - tried open end wrench from top, and also from bottom. Propane heat just made a few spots orange - not enough heat as the head didn’t even get hot enough to turn color.

I also hit the closest part of the bolt with a flat head screwdriver and mallet after I heated it to try to loosen anything up - to no avail.
 
When you started this topic you said a closed end/box would not fit.

It does not - sorry must have typed incorrect, no room for a box end as it hits the header tube (even a slimmer box end set that I have doesn’t work) Open end 6 point does but 7/16 and 11mm there is definitely too much play.
 
Just saw the bolt head off outside the header flange. Remove header. Remove remainder of bolt shaft from hole.
 
Just saw the bolt head off outside the header flange. Remove header. Remove remainder of bolt shaft from hole.
That was my thought. But I would get a wrench on it and either round the head or break it before the sawzall came out. I also would use a torch or find someone else that does to heat it.
 
Just saw the bolt head off outside the header flange. Remove header. Remove remainder of bolt shaft from hole.

Good idea, thank you. Clearances may be an issue, not sure how much wiggle room there will be even with all the bolts off the headers to gain access to extract.
 
I still can not see why you can not grind a bevel on the box end just enough to get it over the bolt head.
 
Is there room for a Ridgid 6" mini pipe wrench? Not sure how thin those are.
 
Good idea, thank you. Clearances may be an issue, not sure how much wiggle room there will be even with all the bolts off the headers to gain access to extract.
Sawzall that bolt head off. Remove header. Vise-grip that shaft and rotate out. A few minutes and done. Why waste time with a bolt that's useless ?
 
Acetylene is your friend. You can either blow the head off with a cutting torch, or cut it with a Sawzall blade. When you get the header flange off, thread a nut on the cut off stud as far as you can and braze them together. The heat from the torch and the strength of the braze should make it back right out.
And I was thinking- if the bolt is in such a **** spot, maybe want to make it a stud and nut?
 
I would try putting most of the other bolts back in and tighten them.
Heat if possible, put the wrench on it and see if you can put some pressure on it and whack the wrench with a hammer.
Can you get a line wrench on it?
 
Acetylene is your friend. You can either blow the head off with a cutting torch, or cut it with a Sawzall blade. When you get the header flange off, thread a nut on the cut off stud as far as you can and braze them together. The heat from the torch and the strength of the braze should make it back right out.
And I was thinking- if the bolt is in such a **** spot, maybe want to make it a stud and nut?

Makes sense. Hoping the headers can move enough away. Then thread a nut on - I would surmise I can weld the nut to the threads inside the hole of the nut to hold - then hopefully have access to get it off.
 
I would try putting most of the other bolts back in and tighten them.
Heat if possible, put the wrench on it and see if you can put some pressure on it and whack the wrench with a hammer.
Can you get a line wrench on it?

Would have to get a line wrench set to see. Clearance is an issue even from underneath - no real way to get a cheater bar on there even if it does fit. :/
 
Makes sense. Hoping the headers can move enough away. Then thread a nut on - I would surmise I can weld the nut to the threads inside the hole of the nut to hold - then hopefully have access to get it off.
You got it. I've done it a number of times, and it works well, especially on pencil thin bolts in aluminum heads.
 
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