Stupefied door window mylar slider wows

[Moparfiend]

After way too much work of trying to get my door windows in, I am stuck. I have ideas to solve but they are not great.

The problem: the new mylar inserts appear to jam in the wing channel or are very tight. Thus the windows jam up or are very tight.

What Ive done: I wire brushed the channel and cleaned it with lacquer thinner. I sanded down the nylon clips to make sure they weren’t the cause of the jam. They are not. I also used the factory clips no luck. I left the back clip in and took out the front clip to feed the assembly in the wing channel with no clip! Still way too tight.

It appears that the mylar is just too much for the clean factory wing channel.

The only idea left is to trim the mylar sleeve. I don’t like this idea but it’s all I can come up with.

Other ideas?

Here are some pictures:

 

[threewood]

Don't trim it yet!! They are expensive. Did you buy the curved pieced authorized by Chrysler? The straight ones suck.

I had to sand down my plastic sliders...a lot, first of all. Then a heat gun to get them to loosen up, then worked them up and down in the channel with silicon spray.

Or you might try and spread the channel a tad.

 

[Moparfiend]

Don't trim it yet!! They are expensive. Did you buy the curved pieced authorized by Chrysler? The straight ones suck.

I had to sand down my plastic sliders...a lot, first of all. Then a heat gun to get them to loosen up, then worked them up and down in the channel with silicon spray.

Or you might try and spread the channel a tad.

They are curved and correctly installed with the windows curve. Even without the clips/plastic sliders it’s too tight! And yup $130 for this crap!

 

[RT SE 440]

Just finished doing mine they were super tight i used the original plastic slides all but one as it was beyond usage .I cleaned the channel well but still tight the trick was to flood the channel with graphite powder and i mean flood it even after i got them in. Working the window up and down the channel and flooding them with graphite they now seem to have loosened up now PS don't used any heat on them as they just deform the shape. ask me how i know

 

[Moparfiend]

I am going to make mine all from scratch. If I get it right I can share. My 3D printer is down right now but my model is almost done for the clips. Will be using Kapton for the sleeve. Tired of buying crap that I can make myself better.

 

[Sixpactogo]

After way too much work of trying to get my door windows in, I am stuck. I have ideas to solve but they are not great.

The problem: the new mylar inserts appear to jam in the wing channel or are very tight. Thus the windows jam up or are very tight.

What Ive done: I wire brushed the channel and cleaned it with lacquer thinner. I sanded down the nylon clips to make sure they weren’t the cause of the jam. They are not. I also used the factory clips no luck. I left the back clip in and took out the front clip to feed the assembly in the wing channel with no clip! Still way too tight.

It appears that the mylar is just too much for the clean factory wing channel.

The only idea left is to trim the mylar sleeve. I don’t like this idea but it’s all I can come up with.

Other ideas?

Here are some pictures:

View attachment 1635179

View attachment 1635180

View attachment 1635181

I went through all the same methods as you have tried with the same results as you. I know it is not the preferred method but it was mentioned to tweak the channel a little. That is what I ended up doing with mine. It didn't take much but what I did was take a couple inch long piece of 1/2" steel rod and lay it in the channel. Then used a C clamp to spread the channel a tad. I kept moving the rod and re clamping while checking the width with my digital micrometer. It worked perfectly for me and since I have power windows, I needed them to operate smoothly. As I said, it don't take much so be careful and good luck! I thought the newer version of the mylars were better but I guess not.

 

[Moparfiend]

I went through all the same methods as you have tried with the same results as you. I know it is not the preferred method but it was mentioned to tweak the channel a little. That is what I ended up doing with mine. It didn't take much but what I did was take a couple inch long piece of 1/2" steel rod and lay it in the channel. Then used a C clamp to spread the channel a tad. I kept moving the rod and re clamping while checking the width with my digital micrometer. It worked perfectly for me and since I have power windows, I needed them to operate smoothly. As I said, it don't take much so be careful and good luck! I thought the newer version of the mylars were better but I guess not.

Thanks for the input. I am curious as to how you used the rod and c-clamps to spread the channel. I can’t visualize it.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Thanks for the input. I am curious as to how you used the rod and c-clamps to spread the channel. I can’t visualize it.

Yeah, it is hard to explain without a picture but basically I laid the rod in the channel and squeezed it in with the C clamp pushing the lips of the channel apart. This was in the bare channel also. The rod was a wedge so-to-speak. I didn't take any pictures at the time since I had no idea what the hell I was doing. I probably shouldn't even be recommending my method. It must have worked though since my windows have worked perfectly now since 2015.

 

[Moparfiend]

First prototype needs some minor tweaks. But not bad for my first design for the car.

 

[Moparfiend]

So to follow up on this such that others may follow in our footsteps. A solution and I think a good one to this issue is the following:

1. Use new sliders or make your own or ask me I am giving away some while supplies last.
2. Use a good tape such as Kapton and put it on the edge of the glass where the Mylar sliders would go. Have it wrap the ege to protect the glass. Use a few layers. Will talk about how many in a minute.
3. Buy some flat rigid felt sheets preferably black. Cut into long strips about 1/2 wide BUT no wider than the tape on the glass. Ideally should be the same width as the original slide. Simple so far right? Do NOT cover the slider clips! Stop short of the clips such that the clips move freely. So you’re NOT glueing anything to the glass directly just to the tape.
4. The thickness of the felt assembly is dictated by the layers of tape and the thickness and number of layers of felt.

I used gorilla glue for the bond between the tape and felt and gorilla fabric glue for an additional layer of felt.

The assembly slides smooth and has the right feel not to tight but somewhat snug. Totally adjustable by the layer thickness. The clips keeps the glass in the channel and the felt provides a smooth shock absorbing smooth slide action. You cannot see the felt in the assembly when done except possibly the edge of the felt. If you use black it looks perfect.

The cost is minimal and the job is easy and the results are sound I believe.

 

[Billccm]

Impressed!

 

[Moparfiend]

Update. The window mylar replacement concept is causing some binding. I figured out why. Its NOT THE CLIPS its the material along the window. It’s too soft. The window wrap needs to be bind free and thus needs to have a property of being harder. A nylon 1/4 u channel would be ideal. Pvc might work but probably not 1/4 bathroom shower clear soft channel material. Looks like there are choices out there to try. When I get back to it I will provide an update.