Suspension and steering components to choose....kind of lost!?

[451Mopar]

For Axle End Play, from the Factory Service Manual (FSM), tighten adjuster until zero end play, then back off adjuster about four notches for an end play reading of 0.008" to 0.018". With the stock bearings, you need to grease them with wheel bearing grease too.

 

[Wietse]

Thx for explaining 451Mopar.

So would a 1-1/8" solid sway bar be a better option compared to my choice of 1-3/8" hollow sway bar? (combined with 1.03" torsion bars)
I would prefer an oversteer than an understeer i guess so if i need to soften up slightly on the front to prevent a understeer car i can still change something.
I assume the PST rear leaf springs are stiffer then OEM, the Bilstein shocks on the rear will be stiffer then OEM so the rear end comes along with the front in stiffness.

 

[wyrmrider]

I'd go bigger torsion bars then balance with the sway bar- use inexpensive ones first- like stock with the 1.1 1.24 torsion bars
ps you do NOT want much if any over steer unless you are driving a Porsche- you can get hurt real bad
of course turning the wheel while continuing going straight is not fun either

 

[Wietse]

I cannot really afford to play and try different components, I will be paying shipping and import charges which will cost a fortune.
Just looking for a known combination that rides "comfortable" but is well able to have a sharp control of the car if you do floor it and make some tight corners.

Anyone on the leaf spring main eyes?? 2" confirmed only used on Hemi, correct?
I am sure mine are 1-1/2" as I measured them, but the 2" were not used on 440 engine models right?

 

[wyrmrider]

work with your vendors
they should know what works and what does not
BVVC about a big rear bar
get your rims and tires sorted out first as wider rims require stiffer bars (less roll)- tell your prefered vendor
I've done stiff bars and light sway bars for road racing and softer bars with heaver sway bars for street
It's all about balance
One of the best from stock parts was a 68 Dodge Polara C body 2 door with the long bars 1.06,
1" sway in the front xtra leaf in the rear and cordoba rear sway 15 x 8 rims and a panhard rod and torque links from the top of the axle to the body from a D Body Imperial - (59-66)
I like to put plastic full length inter-liners between the leaves and eliminate the zincs -spraying the rubbing surface with spray molly- no one likes sticky leaves
that one had the rubber iso mounts and set up for dual shocks
problem was front shock availability
ended up mounting outside the A Arm
cheers

 

[Wietse]

I will ask the vendor about my planning and see what they recommend.
Already got some recommendations here from PST and I will follow up on that.
After their comments I already noticed I get a better setup, with improved geometry and lower price compared to my initial setup.
Quite sure they will have an answer on what combinations will be working together in balance.

At the moment I am sourcing some new bits and pieces together for the brake system as well.
Guess I will go for DoctorDiff, complete 10x2-1/2" drum rear brake assembly, just need some new discs and pads for front.
I did not find anything so far that fits OEM size, I have the stock 4 piston calliper up front but I wonder if I need to upgrade this as a package.
Or are there any vendors still supplying stock size rotors and brake pads?

Then again, is it worth the upgrade to a 10.95" front disc brake kit (stage 1), like Doctordiff offers compared with my current brakes?

 

[wyrmrider]

What size wheels?
let's see 14" rotors take 17 " wheels
12" rotors take 15"
11" fit in the stock 14"
why not 11" drums in the back- easy conversion and ribbed finned drums are available
I used to run velvetouch metalic linings in them

I dug out my MOPAR Chassis book
not much on B body but here is for A Body and you can extrapolate there are formulas for torsion bars

The rear Race springs were 180 lb in, 383's and HD SW were 130 rest ere 110 20 inch front segment total OAL 55 inches

the torsion bars had a 30 degree hex offset front to rear which is too much for BIG Bars- you can't crank the adjusters far enough to get the car down and they are a bitch to install

The Race A body T bars were 1.06 (for a 35.8" long bar" giving 215/lb in
stock bars ranged
85 for .83
90 .85
98 .87 (S and GTS)
108 .89

63-66 front bar .83 73 lb/deg
67-69
.88 77
.94 84
1.00 100
you can make sway bars from 5160 if not available 1060
heat bend and air cool- no quench

13/16 rear wheel cylinder PN 2530136
you can convert to manual adjusters on the rear

 

[Wietse]

I have 15" wheels, still need to confirm fitment before buying though.
Just wonder if any other 11" rotor will make a big improvement over stock.
They are 4 piston type after all, not required for racing or so but it's good to have some decent stopping power.
Think if I would get my hands on a set of rotors and pads that will fit the original brake assembly I would go for that.
Don't get me wrong, the stopping power I have now is above expectancy for the car.
Just the stuff is worn and while taking it all off I just want to replace it with new while I am at it.

Regarding the Torsion bar I think I will stick with the 1.03", PST also mentioned these are not extremely stiff and as per the end users they give a more "modern" feel to the suspension behaviour.

 

[wyrmrider]

1.03-1.1
here's a good read
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/rear-sway-bar.145417/

With 15" wheels go with the 11.75 rotors
72 and earlier have smaller wheelbearings than 73 and later so check the wheel bearing interchange
if you have to you can make spacers (floating is fine)
a good read
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2015/02/Chrysler-Disc-Brake-Calipers/3747331.html

 

[wyrmrider]

1.03-1.1
here's a good read
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/rear-sway-bar.145417/

 

[Wietse]

So, reading that I would be better off with a 1-1/8" solid sway bar and 0.96" torsion bars.
At the rear will be the PST leaf springs with Poly bushings for the shackles.
A Billstein set of shock all around..
I was not planning on a rear sway bar btw...

Maybe the front end will end up too stiff for a decent balance? (compared to 1-3/8" tube sway bar, 1.03" torsion bars)

Nobody any suggestions were to pick up some OEM style front rotors and pads?