Cool. I got the middle and outer ones out without a problem, but the inside one is a different story. Also, I went to check the brake lights and turn signal and as the turn signal was on, smoke came out of my steering wheel and now the tail lights are al out. I noticed earlier in the week that the horn was not working so I am wondering what happened.
I would highly recommend you download an electrical diagram for your particular car. Make a few copies and using colored pens trace the various circuits for the various functions - brake circuit, tailight circuit, turn signal circuit on a separate diagram and use only those pages for that particular circuit: (http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24) The diagram will also show the color codes for the wires of each circuit. You will know exactly which wire goes where in each circuit. Isolate your individual circuits by pulling the fuse to that circuit and check for continuity or grounding to chassis. All circuits work on only one of two principles: 1) you send power down a wire to a particular load like the head lights which are always grounded or 2) you always have power going down the circuit and complete the circuit to ground with a switch like interior lights with jamb switches or your brake lights via the brake switch. Only with the use of an electrical diagram can you ascertain how the circuit works. Common issues are: poor grounding, bulkhead connector contact deterioration, faulty bulb sockets, shorted signal flasher unit, arced fuse holder unit and bare worn wiring. Isolating each circuit in turn will help you find the issue but it's tedious and requires the use of VOM meters, electrical probes and of course a comprehensive wiring diagram. You don't need the key on to short your battery to ground and yes, the cables to the battery should never be taught. Grounds must be maintained between the battery, engine and body of the car and should be run in a manner to loop all three as though they were one. Certain rag joints on steering columns will isolate the upper part of the column from chassis ground and require a jumper wire in order for the horn to work. There is always power to the horn relay and you complete the circuit via the horn contact under the steering wheel but if the ground is poor at the upper column the horn will never function. Good luck and think of this as a learning experience you'll never forget and get that wiring diagram.Is there a trick to putting the tail light bulb back in on a 1969 Coronet R/T?
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https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/fd47801Ok, the mechanic said that the LED bulbs drew too much amperage and fried my turn signal switch located behind the steering wheel (where I saw it smoking). Does anyone know a source for the turn signal switch for a 1969 Coronet R/T?
You'll notice a gap in the "fingers" that hold the socket in place.
Indeed. Most ideal.