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The A727

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bigmanjbmopar

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Does anyone have any experience with the trans over heating? I already know I need a torque converter since my 493 needs a little more stall at idle, but it seems that after I have been driving for awhile the motor temp is at 180-190 but I can feel a bog in acceleration and it just dies at idle after it's warmed up, I am thinking the 727 has issues.

Right now I have the trans cooling lines connected to the bottom of the radiator like stock, my rad is aluminum 3 row 26" 14" elec. push and 19" flex no shroud. Wondering if getting a separate trans cooler would be the way to go?

Weird is after it dies at idle even though I have fuel and great pressure it is hard to start, could the trans fluid be so hot that it is loading up and stopping the engine? Or carb problem and trans problem..hmmm carb has been problematic already but could a over heated trans cause a stall at idle and kill the carb? This is my first 727 so not sure what are some of the common problems with them. :tied up:
 
How do you know your trans is overheating? Do you have a gauge on it? If it's been overheating, generally the fluid will turn dark and have a burnt oder to it.
 
Cranky said:
How do you know your trans is overheating? Do you have a gauge on it? If it's been overheating, generally the fluid will turn dark and have a burnt oder to it.
Click to expand...

Well Looking at more and more I think my stock stall is just taken a crap, it gets worse as drive time increases.

All things point to the stock stall locking up and failing, so I guess I just cant know for sure until I get to the tranny shop but I just wanted to know if heat plays a part.
 
If it was a trans issue, the heat from the ATF would also heat the engine coolant and be noticeable on the temp gauge-never ran across that in 40 years of thrashin' Mopars. Just my .02
 
yeah eddy 800 reman had issues with from the start, one of the floats was all the way up both needed proper adjustment, bought the kit for needles and springs and jets had to tune down so it could be tuned at all.

So if heat is not the problem it must be the converter has just been smashed when it heats up, I hear it's common on stock stalls when twice the power is placed on them. OK makes sense stall heats up looses it's ability to function right cuz it's under rated for the motor. end result slight bogging on performance and inability to idle...bad stall converter.

Last question, is there a benefit to getting a trans cooler?
 
OK, lets figure this out...

You have a 493 stroker with an 800 eddy...whats your cam? Im thinking something in the 240ish range at .050? 550 lift? nothing radical but 2200-6500 range?

what gears you running? I bet 3.55's....or less...3.23's?

with stock stall...your gonna bog, sputter, and die. Its not going to overheat, its just not going to put you into the most efficient powerband.

Id say get some deeper gears and a new converter, but tell me what cam and gears first so we can see what others say.

Btw, a tranny cooler is always a good idea when going with a higher stall converter, but I dont think that is your problem at the moment.
 
...Sounds more like overheated carb percolating the fuel....this takes a bit of time and doesn't contribute to coolant temperature...car usually runs and idles OK when cold and then stalls and is hard to start when carb gets hot..

Had the same problem and had to put in carb spacer, heat shield , and insulate fuel line and flter...
Carb and fuel line can overheat from hot air blowing off rad(I have aluminum rad too)

Splicer
 
Personally, anything healthier than stock always got a cooler and trans temp gauge, with the cooler isolated from the radiator in the summer but run in series in the winter. (Yes, I drove my stuff in the midwest snow & slop- nothing like m-50x14's, 4 speed big block and 3.91's to make a fun drive to work...lol)
 
kllrbee said:
OK, lets figure this out...

You have a 493 stroker with an 800 eddy...whats your cam? Im thinking something in the 240ish range at .050? 550 lift? nothing radical but 2200-6500 range?

what gears you running? I bet 3.55's....or less...3.23's?

with stock stall...your gonna bog, sputter, and die. Its not going to overheat, its just not going to put you into the most efficient powerband.

Id say get some deeper gears and a new converter, but tell me what cam and gears first so we can see what others say.

Btw, a tranny cooler is always a good idea when going with a higher stall converter, but I dont think that is your problem at the moment.
Click to expand...

Yes cam is in the 224 /230 have not found the tag for the gears yet but feel like 355's - posi suregrip unit


7dca29e2.jpg
 
splicer said:
...Sounds more like overheated carb percolating the fuel....this takes a bit of time and doesn't contribute to coolant temperature...car usually runs and idles OK when cold and then stalls and is hard to start when carb gets hot..

Had the same problem and had to put in carb spacer, heat shield , and insulate fuel line and flter...
Carb and fuel line can overheat from hot air blowing off rad(I have aluminum rad too)

Splicer
Click to expand...

I have the performer rpm and a 1/4" thick heat insulated gasket under the 800, fuel lime is stock 5/16" up to the carb then adapted to 3/8 from the filter to the carb. fuel pressure is at 5 psi. The plan is to fix the stall and then move to the carb. carb has been questionable since day one.
 
Ok, thats a pretty mild cam. Good for your gears and a stock converter.
It sounds like youve got your mind made up on replacing the converter, which is fine, but I really dont think thats the problem.
Its your carb heatsoaking....Eddy's are notorious for doing it. Id say fix that before moving onto anything else.
Just my 2 cents.
 
OK.... if you have a bare steel fuel line running up the front of the engine and then back past the distributor to the carb, you need to insulate it....I've been through this and your gas is boiling......I have a 1" phenolic spacer and an aluminum heat shield under the carb as well...but do the insulation thing first...big difference for me...if carb gets too hot for you to keep your hand on it, you have a perc problem...

Splicer
 
splicer said:
OK.... if you have a bare steel fuel line running up the front of the engine and then back past the distributor to the carb, you need to insulate it....I've been through this and your gas is boiling......I have a 1" phenolic spacer and an aluminum heat shield under the carb as well...but do the insulation thing first...big difference for me...if carb gets too hot for you to keep your hand on it, you have a perc problem...

Splicer
Click to expand...

OK, thanks I never thought to touch the carb after it is warmed up awhile to see how hot it is. The fuel line is the 5/16" metal line from the tank to the front around the shock tower at the bottom frame rail then goes to rubber to the mech. pump then rubber all the way to the carb. The fuel filter has now changed to a plastic see through type.

here is a old picture, the gasket is still the same under the carb. it is this gasket - Edelbrock 9265 - Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gaskets, says it is supposed to prevent perc over got it from summit.


IMAG0343.gif
 
sorry wrong gasket model, is the duel plane one Edelbrock 9266 - Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gaskets, I have the performer RPM air gap duel plane. Same concept on the gasket though :)
 
Also found this pic I had of the fuel line and the torque converter, not that you can tell anything from this about the stall.

IMAG0273.gif
 
I checked the carb today for heat, didn't drive it around but let it idle and rev'ed it well past it's warmed up point and the carb felt warm but not so hot I couldn't touch it. I cold keep my hand on it for awhile.

Update: After letting it sit for a 1/2 hour or so, after the electric fan shut off I felt the carb again and it is hot real hot, I can hang on to it for a few seconds but it is hot...go figure.. I notice the electric choke is wide open still as well guess that's good since it's warmed up. Still have 5 psi on the fuel guage and can see fuel in the filter.

IMAG0453.gif
 
Last edited:
You're getting heat from 2 places...obviously engine heat is soaking it's way up through your carb gaskets/insulators, and you'll be getting heat from air blowing back from rad while engine is running....

As I mentioned before, I've ended up with a 1" phenolic spacer and a Mr. Gasket aluminum heat shield and it's worked....

Give it a try...

Splicer
 
What kind of hood do you have then? I can't close mine all the way already.
 
...64 Dodge Polara with stock hood....Edelbrock Torker manifold, Mr. Gasket aluminum heat shield, 1' phenolic space, 870 Holley, K&N filter and housing with 1 1/8" recessed base....still have 1/2" clearance to hood

Splicer
 
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