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Thosaf extractor set junk

dspur

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Purchased the set on Amazon a while back. Broke an exhaust stud, drilled it a bit then used the extractor with a 1/2 socket and 3/8 ratchet. Nothing heavy duty. Extractor broke and now I have a bigger problem trying not only get the broken stud out but the extractor piece as well. Evidently Chinesieum junk.

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Buy once, cry once. Broken off bolts are a pain to deal with. Weld a nut to the stub if you can.
 
"Easy out" is an oxymoron. Even the expensive ones will break. If the bolt broke, there was a reason. The threads wouldn't break loose and drilling a hole and tapping in a tapered easy out doesn't always correct the problem.
 
Many of my extractors belonged to my grandfather. I try to avoid use of any extractors, and would not consider anything not of top quality. Even then, I suspect that extractors can get brittle with age, so I don't trust mine 100%. When job success is critical, I have bought a new extractor from a namebrand company I trust. A bolt is difficult enough to deal with, removing a hardened extractor scares me
 
Thosaf?

A lady at work just bought a USB-C power supply that was made by (seriously) "Vojayjay".

We recently bought 3 foot ST to LC fiber jumpers and had to choose between "Vindesail", "TIKTAK", and "bayonsay" brands.

Seriously?
 
Chinese or not, most break before the target object comes out. The best method IMHO is reverse carbide drill bits. Generally the broken bolt will come out while drilling. If not, just keep enlarging the hole till you can peel the threads out !!
 
Well: One thing about it, if it's still in there it's probably soft anyway.
 
Purchased the set on Amazon a while back. Broke an exhaust stud, drilled it a bit then used the extractor with a 1/2 socket and 3/8 ratchet. Nothing heavy duty. Extractor broke and now I have a bigger problem trying not only get the broken stud out but the extractor piece as well. Evidently Chinesieum junk.

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These are made for broken brass, copper fittings not steel
 
I too have broken one or two of those extractors. Whether you weld a nut on or use another method, Heat and some crayon wax are gonna be your friend here.
 
Chinese or not, most break before the target object comes out. The best method IMHO is reverse carbide drill bits. Generally the broken bolt will come out while drilling. If not, just keep enlarging the hole till you can peel the threads out !!
I drill with LH bits. A lot of times I think the heat inside helps as the offender sometimes comes out without using an extractor. What a relief
 
I NEVER use that type of 'extractor'. Extractor is a misnomer, should be called a 'jammer'. The design is such that it tends to jam the broken piece in even harder.
 
I don't use the long extractors as they usually just break. I have used the stubby extractors for over 30 years and have only broken one, 3rd one in from the smallest. Yes, there is a definite size vs bolt usage in order to be successful in removing the broken piece. Too small of a hole, the extractor will likely break, and too large of a hole, and it will just force what is left of the bolt into the workpiece as Geoff said. I start with a 1/16" LH drill and center bit to center the hole and drill progressively larger trying the extractors carefully. If the bolt doesn't want to come out, I keep drilling for a Heli-Coil or Time-Sert. If something breaks like the OP, I am doing this in the Seat & Guide machine, so I switch to a carbide endmill to chew threw it. Depending on the OP's hole size vs bolt diameter, it is likely to just be Chinese junk and likely can be drilled out by hand.
 
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