Throwout bearing touching fingers.

[TallGuy71]

Going to take a swing at someone adding an inch to your clutch pedal rod. I want to laugh at all of the people that get so damn concerned over this. His clutch pedal didn't come up all the way, it's not even with the brake pedal, so he cut and added an inch to it. OMG! If you don't want to modify yours again, Mega Parts has them, under trans parts and the clutch rods and components, $50.
When you get this sorted out, your pedal doesn't have to be even with the brake pedal, as long as you have separation between the pp fingers and throwout bearing. The spring between the fork and bellhousing does that. But, you have a ways to go before worrying about that one.

I didn’t think about it moving the pedal like that. New one ordered. that extra inch seemed to be pushing the whole z bar forward and torquing the whole thing in a bad way because it was also bent, along with being lengthened. It also pushed the fork rod too far back towards the clutch fork opening. I think the right length one that I ordered helps to solve one tiny issue in the big picture of problems I’ve run into.

 

[toolmanmike]

Explain yourself!

What is this mess?

This is obviously wrong.

 

[toolmanmike]

I heard Lakewood scattershield. That may be a large part of the issue.

 

[TallGuy71]

What is this mess?

View attachment 1968720
This is obviously wrong.

View attachment 1968721

I’m fully aware it’s a mess. That’s why I’m trying to fix all of it.

 

[toolmanmike]

I’m fully aware it’s a mess. That’s why I’m trying to fix all of it.

What's your combination? Lots of horsepower and abuse? Why the need for a fancy clutch and scattershield?

 

[dadsbee]

Factory bell housing or he wouldn't have that view to get a picture!

 

[toolmanmike]

Factory bell housing or he wouldn't have that view to get a picture!

I have been trying to do Christmas and not paying close enough attention to someones clutch issues. I bought the proper linkage parts from Brewers and straightened mine out.

 

[Bird 426]

You guys beat me to it, I don't see a scattershield. Just measured my Centerforce flywheel it's 31/32's thick.

 

[TallGuy71]

What's your combination? Lots of horsepower and abuse? Why the need for a fancy clutch and scattershield?

My father purchased the car a few months ago. First time he took it out there was tons of clutch slippage. So now I’m taking it all apart finding out what the issue was. Main diagnosis seems to be wrong TO bearing. Instead of fixing the main issue, all the linkage was botched by previous mechanics. I believe I’ll be pulling my first 4spd tomorrow. It’s a built 440+6 on the other side of it.

 

[TallGuy71]

I appreciate you hoppin’ in Mike. As I stated before I will definitely be calling Brewer, it’s just that they’re closed till the 5th.

 

[Bird 426]

Just remembered that I have a new Centerforce throwout bearing. It's for my small block Centerforce diaphragm. It's 1/8" shorter than my 11" Hemi Centerforce diaphragm. The bearing looks like the one that you have. Starting to wonder about correct pressure plate and disc. If it has a Centerforce disc, its probably a dual friction, pucks on the flywheel side and regular lining on the pp side. This bearing has a step in it. The sleeve has a notch on the back side. Sorry about the picture, would rather not remove it from it's sealed bag.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Just remembered that I have a new Centerforce throwout bearing. It's for my small block Centerforce diaphragm. It's 1/8" shorter than my 11" Hemi Centerforce diaphragm. The bearing looks like the one that you have. Starting to wonder about correct pressure plate. This bearing has a step in it. The sleeve has a notch on the back side. Sorry about the picture, would rather not remove it from it's sealed bag.

View attachment 1968757

View attachment 1968758

View attachment 1968759

I agree, T/O bearing looks correct to me.... A measurement would confirm it... The longer rod won't raise the pedal, there is a mechanical stop that limits up travel.... So it would cause the lack of free play.... Can't tell in a photo how much movement the fork actually has.... It's disconnected from the pedal linkage, so, is it holding pressure on the pressure plate fingers? Or is there a little room... From the photo it looks like there is no room, but photos can be deceiving...

If there's no room I'd be looking hard at the pressure plate & flywheel... Cause to me the T/O bearing looks correct...

 

[Bird 426]

Looking at your pictures again, make sure when you pull the trans that the hole for the bearing retainer in the bell and trans are the same diameter.

 

[TallGuy71]

I agree, T/O bearing looks correct to me.... A measurement would confirm it... The longer rod won't raise the pedal, there is a mechanical stop that limits up travel.... So it would cause the lack of free play.... Can't tell in a photo how much movement the fork actually has.... It's disconnected from the pedal linkage, so, is it holding pressure on the pressure plate fingers? Or is there a little room... From the photo it looks like there is no room, but photos can be deceiving...

If there's no room I'd be looking hard at the pressure plate & flywheel... Cause to me the T/O bearing looks correct...

It is holding pressure on the plate fingers even when disconnected from the linkage. It should all hopefully be coming out today so I’ll be able to have more pictures and measurements by this evening.

 

[Orig69]

The flywheel looks like it has some serious wear on the ring gear.

 

[gkent]

Just remembered that I have a new Centerforce throwout bearing. It's for my small block Centerforce diaphragm. It's 1/8" shorter than my 11" Hemi Centerforce diaphragm. The bearing looks like the one that you have. Starting to wonder about correct pressure plate and disc. If it has a Centerforce disc, its probably a dual friction, pucks on the flywheel side and regular lining on the pp side. This bearing has a step in it. The sleeve has a notch on the back side. Sorry about the picture, would rather not remove it from it's sealed bag.

1/8" isn't going to make any difference in the OP's case. And FWIW, I have a Centerforce dual friction setup in my '69 RR and I'm using a Hays TO bearing. I don't think the type of clutch makes a difference.

My focus would be on the flywheel - I think that's the culprit.

 

[ynst]

I understand there are 2 different length throw out bearings in common use. You may have the long one installed. My impression is the short one is probably for diaphragm clutches, which it appears you have a Centerforce one. The long one is probably for the original long style clutch.

Borg & Beck, not Long.

Long style pressure plates were common on FoMoCo products

 

[ynst]

Clutch arm in wrong place. Should be between bearing and tab.

You can take the fork right out and the clutch will still slip because the pressure plate is still not compressing the clutch disc.

Why would anyone put a diaphragm pressure plate in a MoPar anyway?