Tips on how to replace front suspension components on 67 GTX

[AR67GTX]

I've had a stock rebuild kit for my GTX for years along with a set of tools from I believe PST - upper ball joint socket, torsion bar clamp to hammer on, upper & lower bushing removal tools and a good supply of various tie rod pullers, etc. Maybe some others I've forgotten about. I finally plan to get after it.

Any tips for doing this at home with standard tools?

One tip I've picked up so far is to remove upper ball joint while the a-arm is still bolted in the car. What about separating the ball joints from the spindle? I've not had much trouble with this on GM cars I've worked on but seems to be difficult on Mopars(?). I have a pretty good selection of 1/2 inch sockets and an 18" break over bar and an 18" piece of pipe extension for the upper ball joint. One thing I don't have is a good hydraulic press -but I have a small one and a big bench vise.

Any tips would be appreciated to help spare this 64 year old body (me not the car) any unnecessary pain and suffering.

 

[miller]

FIRST thing is to pull the torsion bars. Makes it easier if you have a service manual in hand, to show you the correct way.

If those bars are in place, there is a 'spring' load on those suspension parts. Pulling the bars takes the load off.

 

[AR67GTX]

I have the service manual - but it's a bit disjointed since it goes back and forth between A, B and C body cars. Also, it's part replacement based - not real easy to follow for pulling the whole suspension apart at once. But I get it about the torsion bars - pull the snubber stops off, hang suspension at full droop, back off the adjusters, remove clip in back, install clamp on bar and hammer it to the rear.

Thanks

 

[miller]

Sure thing. Keep reminding myself about a guy I ran into, who was 'working' on the front end of a 64 Plymouth Sport Fury.
Ha! He had busted loose the upper ball joints, and was asking me why the front suspension had slammed down so hard, when he broke 'em loose. Said it almost got his hand! And, the thing was set in a real bind.

Of course...bars were still in place.

Only thing I told him was, get the book. As far as being A, B, or C body, their basicly the same, come apart the same. Good luck on it.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks - I have a healthy respect for big springs in suspensions and garage doors. They can do a number on the careless.

 

[Kern Dog]

If you do NOT plan to reuse the grease boots for the ball joints, a pickle fork still works well to knock the ball joints out of their place. Use a heavy hammer if possible to make a more effective impact. If the boots need to be reused, there is a tool I've seen that is called a GEAR puller. It works for this if you have enough space.
I take my upper and lower control arms to a local shop to have the bushings swapped. The man hot tanks them first so he has clean parts to work with. This helps me because they come back darn near ready to paint! If you have a shop press, that saves a few $$$.
Make sure no matter what that the torsion bars do go back in the same position they came out. (IF you are keeping them) If using new, make sure they are installed correctly for front to rear and Left to Right.
Holler back with your results!

 

[miller]

Heh...get's me how hard folks make torsion bars to work with. Yeah, as long as they go back in right, should be a done deal. Hints I've seen on 'stock' bars are usually, on the rear is a groove (or line) that goes level with floor, and right-side bar has a spot of green painted on it.

Hardest part working on bars is getting the dang rubber boot on it.

 

[AR67GTX]

I am planning on keeping the bars and reinstalling them. I'll keep them separated. If I don't see an orientation mark on them I will probably put a punch mark on the hex end for bottom or top (need to keep that straight). I don't think I have new boots for the bars so I guess I'll see what the old ones look like when I get them off.

Thanks again.

 

[miller]

My number one rule is...make it easy on yourself.

If the bars, boots, and such are in good shape, might consider just breaking them loose. In other words, slide the bars out of the sockets, to clear the front end parts, then leave the bars there. Unless there's a reason, such as rust, you can leave the bars sitting in place, and work around 'em. If you do have to pull 'em, boots have to come off.

It's enough of a job, dealing with all the other parts.

 

[AR67GTX]

An issue - I purchased a PST kit many years ago (over 10) and I just now pulled it our and realized I have a "poly" kit. Don't know now if that was intentional or a mistake on their part. I was assuming I had their stock rubber kit. I am not a fan of poly but maybe back then I hadn't yet developed that opinion.

The ball joints and tie rod ends should be fine. I think I would rather get rubber control arm bushings - probably from Moog if I can find them. The bushings have inner and outer sleeves but I'm assuming they are poly as they have silicon grease capsules with them. Anyway to tell for sure?

What about the stabilizer rod cushions (not sway bar) - any reason poly should present a problem for them? Ride harshness? It seems this might be a good place for poly. I usually use poly in sway bar bushings.

This is bone stock GTX - full power and air - a luxury hot rod. No roundy-round workout planned for it.

Bought a 6 ton bench press so I'll try that along with the bushing removal tools I have before I resort to our local truck chassis shop.

Thanks

 

[Kern Dog]

The strut rod bushings in Polyurethane is good. It transmits very little vibration but keeps the lower control arm in position better. I also use rubber bushings in the control arms since the poly ones do transmit more harshness in that area.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks - I'll pick up some Moog upper and lower bushings from Summit and stick with the strut rod poly bushings.

 

[PST]

If you still have the original paper work from the time of purchase. We maybe able to do an exchange for you on the bushings if you would like. You would need to contact our customer service call 1-800-247-2288 use extension 307. That will connect you directly with the C.S. Manager. Tell him James referred you.

Thanks

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks for the offer but I purchased this kit back in 2004 - I don't think that would be fair to PST since the parts are about 12 years old. Also, I would like to the upper arm off-set bushings for the rear bushing to improve the caster a little. Got a little sidetracked building a house and then a Cobra replica so it's about time to get this done.

 

[AR67GTX]

I think I'm finally to the point to start reassembling my suspension - in spite of some of my zany questions I've posted.





















All new bushings - poly in the rear, rubber up front. New LCA shafts. Rebuilt springs. The differential was boiled out and a new Auburn posi and Richmond 3.55 grears installed.
New ball joints and tie rod ends. Replaced axle seals. Sandblasted nearly all parts and painted everything. Straightened a slightly bent strut rod. I think the bearings are all good but will inspect before repacking them.