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Tools Explained

I've never had trouble removing a ball joint.

I was trying to remove one lately and I tried everything. I had to use the longest strong arm I had just to remove the nut. Then I went through two pickle forks, beating the heck out of them. Tried heat and more beating. I had to straighten out the pickle forks twice and deburr them hoping to get one of them to work.

I finally had a thought about using my air hammer. Went to China Freight, I mean Harbor Freight and for ten bucks bought a fork for it. About ten seconds of hammering it popped loose.

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While we're on the subject of tools, @FU64RY gave me one of these. Made by RapidAir they're great even if you don't have trouble with your hands. There's other brands out there but their reviews aren't as good as this one.

 
I've never had trouble removing a ball joint.

I was trying to remove one lately and I tried everything. I had to use the longest strong arm I had just to remove the nut. Then I went through two pickle forks, beating the heck out of them. Tried heat and more beating. I had to straighten out the pickle forks twice and deburr them hoping to get one of them to work.

I finally had a thought about using my air hammer. Went to China Freight, I mean Harbor Freight and for ten bucks bought a fork for it. About ten seconds of hammering it popped loose.

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Doesn't hurt to use a tool made in China and have work? Looks case harden. Where the other furks made?
 
Doesn't hurt to use a tool made in China and have work? Looks case harden. Where the other furks made?
The good stuff like from OTC, Martin Tool and Forge, and off the tool trucks are forged. You will probably get cast iron tools from the bargain brands.
 
Doesn't hurt to use a tool made in China and have work? Looks case harden. Where the other furks made?

Yes, for ten bucks it's worth a try. Definitely it's case hardened. It didn't even show a scratch on it after I used it.

The other forks I don't know where they're made. They're soft for sure. I've had them for a long time and never had a problem using them. I'll try using a hammer on the side of the ball joint or tie rod and normally that will pop it loose. If not the pickle fork always worked. Not this time. These will end up in the bottom of the bottom drawer.
 
How bout a carbide tooth skill saw blade on an edger? Works ok at the higher rpms but one that's cut down to simulate a regular edger blade might work better at lower rpm. The blades I've been using are old, little bit rusty and discarded by others. Just need a center adaptor to center it on the edger shaft or just eyeball it.
 
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