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Top Radiator Cross “Support” Removal

Do NOT cut out that upper core support brace. As simple as it appears, it is structural and very important.
I have removed engines from above and below. The advantage of below is as mentioned....less risk to scratching the body or engine during removal and reinstallation and that the engine can be mostly complete for R & R. There are drawbacks... the steering has to be disconnected, everything transmission related. (Linkages to shifter, cooler lines, speedo cable, drive shaft)
Out from the top is simpler but the engine needs to be stripped more. Remove headers, fan, maybe water pump. I've installed engine and transmission with the hood still ON using a carburetor lift plate, not the chain setup. The carb lift plate can handle the weight and puts the engine hoist mast closer to the engine, closing up the overall length.

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Do NOT cut out that upper core support brace. As simple as it appears, it is structural and very important.
I have removed engines from above and below. The advantage of below is as mentioned....less risk to scratching the body or engine during removal and reinstallation and that the engine can be mostly complete for R & R. There are drawbacks... the steering has to be disconnected, everything transmission related. (Linkages to shifter, cooler lines, speedo cable, drive shaft)
Out from the top is simpler but the engine needs to be stripped more. Remove headers, fan, maybe water pump. I've installed engine and transmission with the hood still ON using a carburetor lift plate, not the chain setup. The carb lift plate can handle the weight and puts the engine hoist mast closer to the engine, closing up the overall length.

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Thanks for taking the time to explain. I never planed on cutting the center section. I thought it unbolted but was suspicious about the construction.
 
I plan on doing this myself if I can’t get anyone to help me. Is lifting the body up better for a one man job.? or not?
 
My 2007 Dodge truck has a bolt in upper section but like all real pickups, it is body on frame where the upper bar has some structural value but nowhere near as much as a unibody car.
The Roadkill Garage TV show had a few episodes where they bought a 68 Dart that had that bar cut out and yeah, engine removal was a bit easier but just seeing it missing made me cringe. The whole upper structure is subject to torsional twist without it. If one were to design a bolt in replacement that spanned beyond the radiator opening, it may be worth considering but to what end? Engine removal and installation isn't that difficult with it intact.
 
I would like to pull the engine and trans together. I hate trying to unbolt and rebolt the trans on my back under the car.

Drive shaft is out trans drained so far. Still looking at both options.
 
I am intrigued by lifting the car method. Everyone that seems to have done it really says that’s the way to go so much easier. But I’m wondering how High does that front end need to clear the motor? I did a simple calculation of lifting the engine up and over. Is there any kind of rough estimate I can do to determine how high the front end needs to go up?
It does need to go pretty high. The dolly that the engine is going to sit on will be in castors and probably 4" off the ground. Add the height from the bottom of the k-frame to the top of the intake and add 1" wriggle room.
That's your measurement.
BUT
I had to roll mine out the side of the car as there was a big step at the front of my garage, so I had to clear the angle which meant it had to go higher than if I had rolled it out from under the front of the car.
Your garage looks to have a small lip but is your driveway sloping downwards? Could be awkward.
 
Get yourself a couple of these and some 2x4s, 2x6s, or 4x4s and make a cradle to drop it out the bottom. These are rated for 1000 lbs or some even 1600 lbs. You can get them at HF, Northern and even HD. They set pretty low too.

dolly.jpg
 
Many good ideas here, especially "don't cut out the upper tie bar of the radiator support" ! The front must be raised high if cherry-picking with trans attached. If I were you in that situation, I'd detach the trans ( trans-bellhousing if MT ) and easily pull the engine. Why is the engine compartment green ?
leave the transmission in the car.
Unbolt everything, put the car back on the ground.
Remove the hood, remove carburetor and use the shortest chain you can to the ends of the heads.
Put a jack under the trans to hold it up, remove the engine out the top. May be a hassle with headers, you put them in so you have experience with them, figure that out as you go.

Should be plenty of room.
From what I see in your pic, that engine pull is a piece of cake.
 
Many good ideas here, especially "don't cut out the upper tie bar of the radiator support" ! The front must be raised high if cherry-picking with trans attached. If I were you in that situation, I'd detach the trans ( trans-bellhousing if MT ) and easily pull the engine. Why is the engine compartment green ?

From what I see in your pic, that engine pull is a piece of cake.

The compartment is green because originally I was gonna do a sublime color. And the 318 already out. So it was before I put the 340 in unfortunately the 340 wasn’t what it was. Was.. I tried to make it work but too many issues.
 
With the engine coming out and warmer weather coming, you have a prime opportunity to get the engine bay right. The outer body looks good in orange. It would be disappointing to see the green engine bay remain when the engine goes back in.
 
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With the engine coming out and warmer weather coming, you have a prime opportunity to get the engine bay right. The outer body looks good in orange. It would be disappointing to see the green engine bay remain when the engine goes back in.
Absolutely on the list.
 
I always worked solo too since I usually was working shift work and when I did heavy work, everyone was usually at work, so.....I always pulled the hood because I always used a chain fall. Kinda sucks working in a tight garage though but always was able to pull the engine and trans together and once the engine was up high, I'd let the car roll back a bit (garage had a slight slope to the floor) then raise the engine a bit more then let the car roll back a few more inches. I also would unwind the torsion bars once everything was loose and some weight was off of them. All accessories were usually left on. Used a crane a few times and don't really like them.
 
I always worked solo too since I usually was working shift work and when I did heavy work, everyone was usually at work, so.....I always pulled the hood because I always used a chain fall. Kinda sucks working in a tight garage though but always was able to pull the engine and trans together and once the engine was up high, I'd let the car roll back a bit (garage had a slight slope to the floor) then raise the engine a bit more then let the car roll back a few more inches. I also would unwind the torsion bars once everything was loose and some weight was off of them. All accessories were usually left on. Used a crane a few times and don't really like them.
Back in the 70s when my buddy and I raced a lot we used his shop where we had a pit under the car and an I beam with a trolley and chain hoist. We could pull the engine in less than an hour with one under the car and the other one on top. That chain hoist made it easy.
 
It looks like the hood bumper you installed is inside out? I never saw them look like that. That said get the car down off jack stands, roll it forward 4-5 feet, take the hood off put cardboard or and old comforter on the roof and set the hood up there just take the hood catch off the hood so it doesn't hit the windshield. Pull the engine and trans and then push it back in that way you don't have to worry about any height issues..
 
If you pull the hood consider drilling a couple of holes through the hinge and the hood so you can put it back in the right place by using "pins" or drill bits to line up the holes before bolting it back together.
 
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