Torque converter bottoms out in crank

[nigel]

Hey folks. I always seem to just come hee with issues. Well I finally got my 727 and 440 bolted together. I picked up a slightly used 3000 stall converter off a buddy. He also gave me a .090 spacer that was used on his motor. The converter slots in nicely to the crank but the converter pilot bottoms out in the crank before it comes close to the flexplate. When the trans is bolted up to the motor the converter is bottomed out in the pump. It spins freely but there is zero spacing.
Which would be the better option. Make a thicker spacer for the bell housing and use spacer washers for the flexplate or is it possible to cut/machine some length off the converter pilot?
Buying a new converter will be my very last resort as they cost around $300 to ship overseas.
Thanks

 

[zyzzyx]

I don't understand why you have a 0.090 spacer for the bell housing????
You say that the "convertor slots nicely" to the crank? There are no slots
in the crank, only in the pump. What is exactly keeping the convertor from
sliding into the crank anymore? Wrong flex plate? Pictures and measurements please!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Machine down convertor.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Machine down convertor.

Before doing anything how about taking some accurate measurements & finding out WTH is going on....

As zyzzzzzzzzzz mentioned what's the story on the spacer & slots? Being in Ireland I'm guessing this convertor may have started life as something other that a Torque Convertor for a Mopar? If that's the case then yeah turning the hub might be a fix... It could also be thicker from the mounting flange to the hub, hence the spacer...

Whatever the case measurements t figure out what you have is a good start...
And post some pictures so maybe we'll see something useful.... Or useless, we're good that way..

 

[zyzzyx]

Hope the copyright police don't git me!

 

[nigel]

So the torque converter came out of a 69 charger with a 440 and 727. The guy that built the car used the spacer between the motor and transmission. When the converter is fully seated in the pump the flex plate bolting tabs are only 10.6mm from the trans bell housing face. The required amount is 12.7mm or 1/2 inch. The .090 spacer gets the required spec.
I checked the torque converter in the crank to make sure the the converter pilot wasn't too tight and by the saying slots I mean it goes into the crank very nicely. The spacing between the flex plate and converter is 2.5mm or 3/32. When the trans is bolted to the motor the converter spins freely but cannot pull up to the flex plate due to the converter pilot bottoming out in the crank and it cannot push back as its in the pump as far as it can go

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Hope the copyright police don't git me!View attachment 1461637View attachment 1461638View attachment 1461639View attachment 1461640View attachment 1461641

Useful info right there...

 

[ruffcut]

What I got out of the explanation is that the hub needs cut to bring the converter forward to the flexplate. I'm guessing the 3/32 or whatever. (2.5mm)
Seems like the converter may have been built for amotor/trans combo with a motor plate? That may explain the spacer?
The converter can't be moved into the pump so it has to move forward. ruffcut

 

[nigel]

The combo was originally built by a racer in the UK and made its way into a 69 charger my buddy bought so it could've been done for a motor plate. He chose to put the original 383 back in the car with a stock converter and that's how I ended up with the converter. I'll probably find it hard hee in ireland to find someone to machine the pilot hub. I can make spacers myself so I was wondering if that could be an option to move the trans and converter back even more and use spacers between the flex plate and converter

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The pilot hub centers the convertor in the crank... Bolts aren't nearly accurate enough, so spacing the trans back without measuring accurately & being certain what is going on is a asking for bigger problems...

As I said earlier post pictures..

 

[ruffcut]

Spacing the trans back will not have it positioned on the dowel pins which locates it and you can't use spacers between the crankshaft and flex plate because the flex plate will not be positioned on the center hub on the crankshaft.
That converter will cause more problems than it's worth.
Wish you good luck
I think the best fix is another converter

 

[dvw]

It could be a converter designed for a mid plate. I can't tell you how many converters I've installed that needed a spacer between the trans and block. usually .090". Mine has one. The last two race combos I bolted together needed a spacer as well. The spacer allows the starter to seat further rearward into the ring gear teeth as well. Which is another benefit. Since most don't have enough tooth contact. to begin with. Why are they like this? Don't know. I can say I've seen it with Mega blocks, KB aluminum blocks, 400 blocks, Callies cranks, Molnar cranks, Chrysler factory stroker cranks, Ultimate, ATI, Turbo Action converters. Never had the issue with a small block. The dowel pin issue is easily solved. Weld an allen bolt head to the dowel. Slip a socket and washer over it. Thread on a nut and pull it out. Then make a new dowel from a long shank 1/2" bolt.
Doug

 

[Wallus57]

Don't forget the name "Flex Plate" . No matter what solution you use you need to make sure that there is some room for the convertor to "float" in and out slightly to avoid pressure/thrust on the pump gear lugs.