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Torsion Bar question...

Tommyboy

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I have a question!

Can you use a torsion bar from a 1967 Belvedere II, 4dr, with a 6-cylinder as a replacement for a rusty ended Torsion bar on a 1967 Belvedere II, 2dr, 383-4barrel?

If yes.... If the ends of the torsion bar, on the 2dr, are the only parts rusted out, can you cut out the bad, and weld in patches or the end caps from the 4dr's torsion bar?
 
Tommy,Your torsion bars are the front springs on your Mopar. The ends are inserted between the lower control arm and the fixed end at the torsion bar crossmember. The bars are twisted in the mounting at the LCA pivot, with a 3/4 socket, to raise the car to proper ride height. The bars are engineered to a specific diameter to meet the spring requirement for specific combinations of /6, small block, big block cars. If you were a drag racer you might want to use a 6 cyl set of bars w/ your V8 to loosen up the suspension for weight transfer. If you do your handling will suffer. If you road race then you would use thicker diameter bars to stiffen the spring rate. YOU CANNOT WELD THE BARS TOGETHER! BE CAREFULL NOT TO GOUGE OR PUT DEEP SCRATCHES IN THE BARS! They could crack when put under load. The lenght of the bars are body specific. B and E body are the same, A body are not going to fit your B body. You can use 4 door bars on your 2 door. Replacement bars are fairly inexpensive. There is a set of 1" bars at a good price in the classified section right now.
 
Ok, perhaps my ignorance is showing just a bit. haha. After reading what you had to say, Ken. I see precisely what you are saying. I definitely will not be welding or cutting on those!!

I think I am meaning the pieces where the torsion bars seat. I've included a picture to show what I mean. This is from an A body, but you get the gyst of it. haha. The ends of that crossmember are rusted out on the ends, but seems pretty solid other than the ends. I was wondering if you could patch in these end pieces. Or do I have to undo the torsion bars, pull out the entire crossmember, and replace it. where the bars are seated, currently, is still intact. 95% of the rust is past those points.
 

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I just read my first post, and see why there was confusion. I meant torsion bar crossmember. hah. sorry guys, but thank you for your responses. :)
 
If the torsion bar crossmember is rusted out the typical fix is to obtain a good donor piece from another like car, your 4 door parts car will work. Drill out all the spot welds that hold the floorpans and the connection to the front subframe. You will need to remove the torsion bars for this. Place your new X member in your car and weld back in the same location. If your crosmember is not rusted out too badly you can use a product from Auto Rust Technicians called a Saf-t-cap that fits over the crossmember and re enforces the mount. Check it out....

http://www.autorust.com/safetcap.html
http://www.autorust.com/trm.pdf
 
Hey Ken. I know my crossmember bar is solid except for the last 6-8" on each end, past the points where the torsion bars join the crossmember. Could I just blast off all the rust, then cap it with one of those T caps from the website you mentioned?
 
Technically yes, you could do that. The problem is usually there's much more rot on the rocker side than you can see. This will become apparent when the blasting is done.
 
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